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Really need help now!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter latroca1
  • Start date Start date Apr 7, 2004
L

latroca1

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
234
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martinsburg,West Virginia
Apr 7, 2004
#1
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #1
hey all whats up??
Ive been rewiring and making my dash work out of my 89'.
Anyways make a long story short i pretty much have it done but have the same problem as before turn the key to ignition and eec,fuel pump relay start buzzing and i think the injectors got a faint pop too!!
The tach also bounces sort of with the popping sound under the hood with the mil light flickering.
I bought a new eec and fuel pump relay today and same thing but when i turn the key to on nothing!!
My harness is out of an 89' i repinned it to the la3.
I tried running some test but ive been looking at wire all week been trying to get my car running so i may see my daughter for easter.
Sort of burnt and at witts end!!
All the wiring is from the 89" and was from a running car i checked myself. I have power going to pcm,ground is good I'm just not sure what more to check I have unplugged relays one by one and still noise under the hood but any ideas i would apprecciate it.

Also my svo did not have a clutch switch will this effect the dead spot when trying to start??
Can i bypass it? I'm not concerned about the switch little easier then having to get in the car to start it all the time when your working on it..
 

Keasbey

Member
Jun 12, 2003
915
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16
Montreal
Apr 7, 2004
#2
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #2
ok so.. if your fuel pump relay start buzzing, it's maybe because you have put a to high voltage on it.. check this.
And when you say that you unplugged the relay one by one, after all the relay have been unplugged, the noise is still there?
And when you say.. "when I turn the key to on, nothing!" the starter doesn't crank?
 
L

latroca1

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
234
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0
martinsburg,West Virginia
Apr 7, 2004
#3
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #3
"ok so.. if your fuel pump relay start buzzing, it's maybe because you have put a to high voltage on it.. check this.
And when you say that you unplugged the relay one by one, after all the relay have been unplugged, the noise is still there?
And when you say.. "when I turn the key to on, nothing!" the starter doesn't crank?"


The popping sound is yes. Even after unplugging the fuel pump relay and the eec relay.
When i turn it to the on position i get nothing no sounds starter don't crank.
I was thinking that would be from the clutch switch i think there is a prong in la3 that senses it or something like that. Can't i tie it in somewhere to complete the signal for it to start???
 

Keasbey

Member
Jun 12, 2003
915
0
16
Montreal
Apr 7, 2004
#4
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #4
this clutch switch is supposed to be on or off when you start the car?if it's supposed to be on the "on" position, so it need a certain voltage to be tied, and I don't know what it is.

For the buzzing noise, if it's still there even if you unplugged your relay, so it is probably not that. Have you checked to see if the starter get enough voltage to start? Have you check from where it come from(the noise)?
 

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
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Dec 24, 2003
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Apr 7, 2004
#5
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #5
I have not touched 1 wire and fule system is bone stock Pre engine swap still and my relay has fuel pump or relay has buzzed since I bought the car years ago........
 
R

Rushman04

New Member
Aug 11, 2003
42
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Apr 8, 2004
#6
  • Apr 8, 2004
  • #6
what gauge wire did you use? I have a electrical problem myself but not the same as yours and wanted to know what gauge wire so use.
 
L

latroca1

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
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martinsburg,West Virginia
Apr 8, 2004
#7
  • Apr 8, 2004
  • #7
I used a harness out of an 89' It was in better way better shape sort of a pain though 3xmore wires..
I just plugged in the old turbo puter for kicks and relays arent buzzing fuel pump primes and shuts off does this mean the LA3 is bad because now I'm out 50.00 I'm not sure if the JY will take it back!!!
Still not getting it to start with the La3 I had no spark to the selenoid going back out to do some checks now with the old turbo puter!!!!!
 
S

Slugstang

New Member
Dec 9, 2003
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Va.
Apr 9, 2004
#8
  • Apr 9, 2004
  • #8
latroca1 said:
Also my svo did not have a clutch switch will this effect the dead spot when trying to start??
Can i bypass it? I'm not concerned about the switch little easier then having to get in the car to start it all the time when your working on it..
Click to expand...

Yes this will affect it. I converted my 85 to an 89 harness and I forgot to plug in the clutch switch plug. I had the same problems you are describing. Pulled my hair out for two days trying to figure it out. Faint flickering MIL light, no start, clicking or poping relay under dash somewhere and buzz from fuel pump relay. You need to wire this up. Not sure how to bypass it but if you check out the schematics for a 89 it should be easy to figure out.


Mike
 
L

latroca1

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
234
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0
martinsburg,West Virginia
Apr 9, 2004
#9
  • Apr 9, 2004
  • #9
You think this solve my problem??
Ive rewired everything over and over I'm at witts end I need this thing running no later then sat tomorrow I'm trying to go see my daughter my other car is ready to die the wrist pin is banging ppretty good.
Besides the point i see the two plugs for the clutch switch i ran a jumper wire across the connections and nothing even put the two plugs together with a jumpe and still nothing.
I just thought of something and will try that!! But if think this is the problem then this should rule out the LA3 is bad right??
Anybody on here Know how to solve this???
 
L

latroca1

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
234
0
0
martinsburg,West Virginia
Apr 9, 2004
#10
  • Apr 9, 2004
  • #10
Went with my gut and took the puter back and got anotherone and sure enough relays aren't buzzing but still have no spark to the distributor.
coil has power but not sending spark swapped it with another and still nothing.
Still no power to the starter relay from the key i checked everything!!!!

How do i check to know if maybe the distributor is bad?? Would my ignition be tied in to the module and not let the coil spark???
Also i have a haynes manual not proud of it this thing sucks for any reference material tells you how to remove coil not test how do i actually test it??
I took a meter and went from one prong to the ballast and did the same for the other and got .0007
 

Keasbey

Member
Jun 12, 2003
915
0
16
Montreal
Apr 12, 2004
#11
  • Apr 12, 2004
  • #11
hmmm don't know
 
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