I drove to the store and set the e brake which i pulled pretty hard on accident(my other car you have to pull pretty hard). Got back in car to leave and I could tell one of my brakes was locked up. Drove about 3 miles home and the driver rear was real hot, took wheel off and removed two caliper bolts. Now what? Do I need to disconnect the e brake line? Thanks
Rear brake locked up
- Thread starter DGC GT 1
- Start date
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Open the bleed screw and press the pedal and see if you get fluid. With the bleed screw open can you retract the piston? If so the caliper is fine and your problem is else where.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Get the special tool that slightly compresses the piston while turning it.
Note, The rear slid pins are very bad about galling to the bracket. Clean and grease with high temperature silcone. The slid pins MUST move freely.
Note, The rear slid pins are very bad about galling to the bracket. Clean and grease with high temperature silcone. The slid pins MUST move freely.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Ok got the caliper off, now i need to compress that piston. I'll prob just get the tool tomorrow, but that doesnt solve my e brake being locked on. How do I disengage it. Do I do anything with the spring? I tried prying on the bracket that holds the end of the cable, but it wouldnt budge. Thanks for the help
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
try the steel threaded cable that comes from the back of your hub and is joining a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission
Got e brake loose. Decided to change rear brakes while everything was off and now I cant get the passenger side piston to go in. I bought that tool and it worked for driver side but its starting to strip out. Then i turned it with some channel lock plyers and I can get it to turn but it wont go in any further. I need about another 1/8" of clearance to get over the new pads
Will I have to bleed my brakes now after unscrewing the bleeder screw to get the piston to go in? Never bled brakes. Sorry this is my first brake job
Will I have to bleed my brakes now after unscrewing the bleeder screw to get the piston to go in? Never bled brakes. Sorry this is my first brake job
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Got e brake loose. Decided to change rear brakes while everything was off and now I cant get the passenger side piston to go in. I bought that tool and it worked for driver side but its starting to strip out. Then i turned it with some channel lock plyers and I can get it to turn but it wont go in any further. I need about another 1/8" of clearance to get over the new pads
The little notches where the tool fits in, make sure one is facing the driver side and the other is pointed to the rear end, the caliper is not going to close easily w/o the piston doing that. You can get the caliper to close but, w/a lot force and the car caliper will adjust itself but, do it right the first time or you will smelling brake pad.
I finally got the piston down far enough to slide over the brakes, but its really tight. I cant get the rotor to turn by hand its so tight. I have to loosen the caliper bolts to be able to turn it. If I keep them tight will the caliper and piston sort of align themselves? Im worried that the old pads were on so long that maybe the piston wont go back into the caliper like it should. Do they make a thinner brake pad that is used? Thanks for any input. Im trying to learn
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