Rear Brake Pads

[QU!CK]

I got some new brake pads for my Bullitt but they seem to be thick to fit around the rotor. I've got the piston screwed back in as far as it will go (on both sides) and the brake pads are still too thick to fit.

Is there a way to safely trim them down enough to fit? It looks like they're just barely too wide to fit around the rotor and it's bugging the crap trying to get them to fit properly.

Any ideas?


-J

 

[sgarlic]

Is the pad being pushed out at ALL by the pistons? The pistons should screw completely in to and underneath the flush surface of the caliper, so if the pistons aren't totally in it'll just barely not fit. I know you said they were in totally.. but I've been fooled several times myself doing these. I'm assuming you did all the usual crap like removing the top from the fluid reservoir, etc. Also, another stupid one, but did you check to be sure you got the correct pads in the box? Are both sides (left and right) doing this?

For the second part of your question, if you got the right pads and everything is done correctly, you shouldn't need to take any surface off the pads.

 

[QU!CK]

Is the pad being pushed out at ALL by the pistons? The pistons should screw completely in to and underneath the flush surface of the caliper, so if the pistons aren't totally in it'll just barely not fit. I know you said they were in totally.. but I've been fooled several times myself doing these. I'm assuming you did all the usual crap like removing the top from the fluid reservoir, etc. Also, another stupid one, but did you check to be sure you got the correct pads in the box? Are both sides (left and right) doing this?

For the second part of your question, if you got the right pads and everything is done correctly, you shouldn't need to take any surface off the pads.

Yea, I've got the correct pads. I had an incident when I went to get my fronts a while back so I was sure to double check this time.

Will the piston continue to turn if it's all the way back in? I know that's a dumb question to ask but it was well inside the boot but I was still able to turn it more. I just assumed that it wasn't going in any further.


-J

 

[sgarlic]

See that's the thing that's hard to explain. The first few times I ever had to remove the pads for anything on mine, I always never screwed the piston back in properly the first time. It always LOOKED like it was in, but never quite was all the way. I would think as long as the piston is recessed below the surface where the pad sits, that it's probably not related to the pistons. Wish I had more advice to give you.. hopefully somebody more knowledgeable about brakes will chime in. Good luck.

 

[QU!CK]

Thanks man, I appreciate the help. Any body else have any advice to offer?


-J

 

[Mustang5L5]

Are these parts store pads?


GT/V6's and CObra/Machs/Bullitts all use the same rear calipers, but the rotors are different. Bullitts have the thicker rotors so from the factory the pads are thinner than the pads used on the GT/V6.

Most parts stores sell pads for the Cobra/Mach/Bullitt however what you get is a GT pad in a different box...and you basically run into the same problem.

Best way to get the correct pads are to use OEM pads or quailty aftermarket performance pads like Hawk.

Parts store pads also tend to squeal more likely. I replaced my rear pads with parts store pads and even though i greased them up well, they began squeaking after a few weeks. OEM pads all the way

 

[bdcardinal]

seem like those are the wrong pads. check to make sure they are for a cobra/mach1.bullitt like stated above. those pads will have less material on them due to the thicker rotor.

 

[QU!CK]

Yea, I the pads I'm using are from Advance Auto Parts. The car is my daily driver and I don't beat on it so I didn't really think the more performance oriented pads would be necessary.

Blah, looks like I may end up getting them anyways.
Thanks for the input guys.

-J

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

more aftermarket junk come-on guys the OEM stuff is not that much more and it fits right and works right stop trying to cut corners if you need the Ford pads, we have the Motorcraft ones for @$39.00 + shipping

 

[Mustang5L5]

more aftermarket junk come-on guys the OEM stuff is not that much more and it fits right and works right stop trying to cut corners if you need the Ford pads, we have the Motorcraft ones for @$39.00 + shipping

+1


After working on cars for almost 10 years now, i've come to realize that parts store parts are just junk. Sure OEM stuff is more expensive, but it's better. This is especially true with brake parts.

 

[bdcardinal]

true, most parts store parts are junk. i really only trust certain brands, NAPA, Carquest are the best parts store parts, but only if you get the premium selection. for brakes on a customer car i really only like using OEM or whatever company makes the OEM part.

ive noticed with Ford if you get the "factory OEM" instead of the Motorcraft part its a little better.

 

[the98stang]

I'm with Randy and the others. Get the Motorcraft pads, so you KNOW they'll fit. None of this "Pep Boys/Kragen/Walmart" brand....

 

[bdcardinal]

also with certain brake kits you cannot get el cheapo pads. try calling kragen and telling them you need pads for a 2000 cobra R. they try to tell you there wasnt a cobra in 2000 and that you must be talking about a GT.

 

[Mustang5L5]

For rotors, look into Brembo replacements. They make them for the GT as well and they are pretty cheap. I priced out a pair of rear Brembo blanks for my GT since i have Brembo 13" rotors up front and they were $34 each off tirerack.com.

That's about what parts stores want for their cheap crap rotors anyway.

 

[QU!CK]

I never knew that the Motorcraft parts were only a little more than the store stuff. Had I known that, I would've just gotten them in the first place.

Oh well, ya live and ya learn. New pads and rotors are in the mail. Thanks for the help guys!


-J