so my friend has a 96 GT, his rear right caliper is draging. we are prolly going to replace it this weekend, i need to know the brake bleeding procedure for it. Do you need a scan tool when bleeding the brakes on this car? (it has ABS)
Rear Brake question
- Thread starter mustangjoe87
- Start date
stangman
15 Year Member
start with the farthest from the master cylinder & work your way to it. the order should go.........
1st - passenger rear
2nd - driver rear
3rd - passenger front
4th - driver front
then, submerse the line in some brake fluid & make sure there are no bubbles to make sure there is no air in the lines
edit - in case you've never done it before, make sure to press the brakes down as far as they'll go when checking for air in the lines.
2nd edit - if you've never done anything brake wise on a stang....the rear brakes require a tool to get the calipers off. unlike the fronts where you can use regualr hand tools
1st - passenger rear
2nd - driver rear
3rd - passenger front
4th - driver front
then, submerse the line in some brake fluid & make sure there are no bubbles to make sure there is no air in the lines
edit - in case you've never done it before, make sure to press the brakes down as far as they'll go when checking for air in the lines.
2nd edit - if you've never done anything brake wise on a stang....the rear brakes require a tool to get the calipers off. unlike the fronts where you can use regualr hand tools
The rear brakes require a tool to spin the piston in to make it retract. Most likely if you buy a reman caliper, it will already be spun in all the way.
If you are replacing a single caliper, and you are quick about swapping the lines, you can usually get away with bleeding that one caliper only.
It's not a bad idea to bleed all 4 wheels considering the fluid might be almost 10 years old.
Pick up some speed bleeders at the parts store, they will run about $20 but they will make your job so much more easier. SImply swap the stock bleeders with them and attach a hose. Crack the bleeder and pump away. No need to close the bleeder after each pump and then reopen.
If you are replacing a single caliper, and you are quick about swapping the lines, you can usually get away with bleeding that one caliper only.
It's not a bad idea to bleed all 4 wheels considering the fluid might be almost 10 years old.
Pick up some speed bleeders at the parts store, they will run about $20 but they will make your job so much more easier. SImply swap the stock bleeders with them and attach a hose. Crack the bleeder and pump away. No need to close the bleeder after each pump and then reopen.
i have bled brakes before, in fact i swaped 96 rear brakes onto my 87, i just need to know if i need to bleed the abs too. i know that this requires a scan tool to activate the pump. so i need to get the tools together before we start.
No, keep air in the ABS manifold at all times and you will be fine. Keep adding fluid to the resevior and bleed brakes in the order mentioned above. BTW, I got speed bleeders and they were made out of cheap aluminum and stripped right out, avoid those...
Also, the caliper bolts on the rear are red-threadlocked in the factory. Best to heat them up real good before you even try to remove them... Immediately plug the brake line so it does not draw air back in while it is disconnected. Never re-use banjo bolts or their crush washers.
And MAKE SURE you lube the caliper slide pins with high temp grease.
Also, the caliper bolts on the rear are red-threadlocked in the factory. Best to heat them up real good before you even try to remove them... Immediately plug the brake line so it does not draw air back in while it is disconnected. Never re-use banjo bolts or their crush washers.
And MAKE SURE you lube the caliper slide pins with high temp grease.
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