Rear Control Arms.

[Dr_EluSivE]

Well i just recently aquired a 88 TC auto rearend (8.8, 373 gears,track lock, discs) and when it goes in the car i want to make sure i put some nice control arms back in with it. The turbo coupe stockers were cut removing the rear so im not using those and i dont really wanna go though all the work of changing a rear and Not upgrading my control arms in the process. I have seen several different styles, Square tubing (mac) Heavy stamped steel (steeda) and some other tubular ones (steeda/UPR) but i dont know what to go with. The car WILL be turbo so i want good traction and good handling, BUT i am no Rockafeller, I need something cheap but effective. And Ideas? Also if you have any suggestions as to other things i should do to this rear before installing Please.. Speak up.

Dr.

 

[140cilx]

Panhard Bar, torque arm, adjustable Swaybar mounted to the subframe, new rubber in the stock control arms. And w/ the torque arm you can ditch the upper 2 control arms I believe.

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

Panhard Bar, torque arm, adjustable Swaybar mounted to the subframe, new rubber in the stock control arms. And w/ the torque arm you can ditch the upper 2 control arms I believe.

sounds pricy and probably a little overkill for street use.. But ill look into and see what i can find out.

Dr.

 

[Stinger]

I've got some x2c motorsport units and I'm happy with them...and they are cheap...

 

[Red_LX]

Whatever you get, just make sure you don't get anything with poly bushings at both ends. I've always heard that a good setup is Motorsport HD uppers and your choice of lowers (with heim joints at one end of the arms).

 

[Dan P.]

I would go with Ford Racing uppers and a set of Maximum Motorsport lowers. The FR uppers come with rubber bushings. You can get a set of uppers from MM for $75 and a nice set of lowers for $250.

Dan

 

[Stinger]

You can get polys on both ends of the lower arm...just make sure you leave the rubber in the upper to rear end joint.

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

You can get polys on both ends of the lower arm...just make sure you leave the rubber in the upper to rear end joint.

this is to protect the Tq boxes Correct? the Stock upper rear end bushing is trashed so i will have to replace it. Il make sure and look for something rubber. Does the X2c kit come with rubber upper bushings? Its price is very attractive.

Dr.

 

[Stinger]

No, it's to keep the rear suspension from binding. The torque box end is still poly.

If you look at the upper arms, they only come with bushings on the torque box end...the other end is "open" and they don't provide new bushings for where it bolts to the rear end.

 

[Willy0314]

if you have a welder, you can just "box" the stock arms depending on what kinda condition they are in. That and some new bushings is the cheapest way to go. If not that, then hit up ebay. You should be able to find a good set dirt cheap.

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

if you have a welder, you can just "box" the stock arms depending on what kinda condition they are in. That and some new bushings is the cheapest way to go. If not that, then hit up ebay. You should be able to find a good set dirt cheap.

Well the stock arms got cut in the removal process so that is out, i was looking at the steed HD set though and it comes with bushing for both sides and they are only 99 bucks. The bushings just for the axle side are 35 by themselves so i may just order those. It comes with 2x stiffer rubber but NOT poly as to protect the tq boxes. From what i am found in my reasearch the lower arms are what makes the biggest difference in the rear handling. So i just buy better lowers.

Dr.

 

[140cilx]

Hey Doc,

Just happened to see this on ebay and thought I'd shoot it to ya just in case: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=33592&item=7933433726&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW