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Rear Drum Brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fri Guy
  • Start date Start date Jan 3, 2025
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Fri Guy

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#1
  • Jan 3, 2025
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My 1990 GT has been sitting for a long time. I pull it out of the garage from time to time to work on it. Few days ago I pulled it out and when driving it back in I could tell there was resistance after about halfway back into my garage. Like if the brakes were sticking.

Today I jacked the car up and the front tires spin easily. The passenger rear had some play forward and back. The drivers side did not. I was able to remove the passenger side drum but the drivers side is tough and didn’t want to force it off without knowing if I’ll be able to get it back on.

I’m thinking that the rear drivers side is stuck. If I put the car in reverse, it reversers normal. But when I put into gear I can feel it locking up when trying to move forward.

Any ideas what might be going on and how to fix it?
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#2
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  • #2
Check to see if your Emergency brake cable is binding up not letting it release....
You have to beat on a drum sometimes to get off a stuck or rusty one... You will need to get the drum off to make sure everything is OK...
 
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Fri Guy

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#3
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Once I get it off will I be able to get it back on? Don’t want to leave my car sitting outside.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#4
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If it were me, I'd be prepared with new bearings, seals, slave cylinders, brake shoes, drums, hardware, and ample fluid to do a flush.
 

LILCBRA

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#5
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I have to deal with the same problem on my vert. First thing you can try is to back off the star adjuster to give more clearance between the shoes and drum.





You should be able to remove the drum if you're able to back it off enough. You'll have to remember to readjust the brakes when you put them back together though.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#6
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Good video on rebuilding the rear brakes and at 5:00 is shows how to adjust them through the back of the backing plate.

View: https://youtu.be/cOozkwPu-Vs?si=tZJxSKakrgE8aKI7


What I have done to get drums off that will not just pull off is to go through that hole with a small flat head screw driver and push the adjusting lever away from the adjusting screw. Then I use another flat tip screw driver to back the adjusting screw off which will allow you to remove the drum. I believe the left side adjusting screw has left handed threads and the right side has right handed threads.

 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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Oh those were not the good old days.
I still have both backing plates and e brake cables sitting in my garage.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#8
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Fri Guy said:
Once I get it off will I be able to get it back on? Don’t want to leave my car sitting outside.
Click to expand...
To just move it into and out of your garage should not be a problem...
Backing of on the adjuster is a good idea, but they are not attached to the brake shoes.. So they can fall off where they Push against the shoes...
If your pulling the drums off no big deal plus this can remove pressure of the shoes/drums to help make the drum come off easier..
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#9
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nickyb said:
Oh those were not the good old days.
I still have both backing plates and e brake cables sitting in my garage.
Click to expand...
No problems with modern cars having rear drum brakes... Alot of new cars today still have them...
My 2015 Tacoma had them...
New rear brakes on my 83 mustang
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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#10
  • Jan 4, 2025
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It ain't a sports car till ya got four wheel disc.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#11
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With the rears only doing about 30% of the stopping on these cars drum brakes work just fine especially the bigger drums on a 9”. Disc rears look better and if you are an occasional track day guy they do help with brake fade.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#12
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AeroCoupe said:
With the rears only doing about 30% of the stopping on these cars drum brakes work just fine especially the bigger drums on a 9”. Disc rears look better and if you are an occasional track day guy they do help with brake fade.
Click to expand...
I agree on a Track Car... I was talking about for the street...
80/20 is the brake bias front/rear I have always seen used....
 
F

Fri Guy

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#13
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Is there a way I can try to lube up the E Brake cable with some wd40 or something else? I’m thinking the cable is not releasing.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#14
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Fri Guy said:
Is there a way I can try to lube up the E Brake cable with some wd40 or something else? I’m thinking the cable is not releasing.
Click to expand...
How old is the cable??? If it needs replacing maybe just cut it with a die grinder
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#15
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New ones are not super expensive unless you guy them from the Mustang parts places:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/brakebest-hardware-hydraulics/brakebest-parking-brake-cable/bhh1/bc93154/v/a/5477/automotive-car-1990-ford-mustang?q=parking+brake+cable&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/brakebest-hardware-hydraulics/brakebest-hardware-hydraulics-parking-brake-cable/bhh1/bc92279/v/a/5477/automotive-car-1990-ford-mustang?q=parking+brake+cable&pos=2
 
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Fri Guy

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#16
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Are they difficult to replace?
 
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nicholase

I lubed and pushed, until it was all the way in
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#17
  • Jan 4, 2025
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Fri Guy said:
Is there a way I can try to lube up the E Brake cable with some wd40 or something else? I’m thinking the cable is not releasing.
Click to expand...
One end of the cable goes into the backing plate to the brakes. This is a sheath with the actual cable inside it. Follow the sheath where it goes toward the front of the car. It curves and goes into the frame. On the inside of the frame above the muffler you'll see the cable come out of the sheath.

WIth the e-brake off pull on that cable over the muffler. It should pull out of the sheath a little and feel springy. Try the other side too.

If it is stuck you might be able to put a pair of vice grips on the cable and tap it back into the sheath with a hammer.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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#18
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I think the toughest part is getting the cable to release from the backing plate and the other location under the car. If memory serves me right you can use a 1/2" closed end wrench on the backing plate connections and then a 1/2" socket on the ones under the car. Yup, found a good video on the ones under the car:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14omuL_x7nY
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#19
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AeroCoupe said:
I think the toughest part is getting the cable to release from the backing plate and the other location under the car. If memory serves me right you can use a 1/2" closed end wrench on the backing plate connections and then a 1/2" socket on the ones under the car. Yup, found a good video on the ones under the car:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14omuL_x7nY
Click to expand...
I haven't seen that trick before..... I use a small hose clamp.... tighten it down, then loosen it as you pull out the cable
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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Jan 5, 2025
#20
  • Jan 5, 2025
  • #20
My dad taught me the 1/2” wrench trick and I have used brake line wrench’s in a pinch.
 
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