I'm trying to drain the gear oil out of my stock 8" rear end. I have undone all the of bolts around the cover enough so the cover should crack open and let the old fluid drain out. But it ain't happenin. It makes me wonder if the fluid has ever been changed. I've tried everything from a BFH to an air chisel. Anymore suggestions? I don't know if it's a good idea to try heat since the gas tank and lines are so close.
rear end stuck together
- Thread starter 19stang66
- Start date
67coupe351w
New Member
The center section you are trying to pull out is being held in place by the axle shafts. Don't use any more force to try and yank it out of there.
If you want it to move you will have to pull the axle shafts out of the ends of the tubes.
302 coupe
Founding Member
tighten the nuts back to spec, go to a parts store and purchase a suction gun (look kinda like a grease gun). Stick the suction gun into the hole where the fill plug goes. Suck out all the old oil and refill with new. That is unless you want to pull the axles to crack open the center section.
you still have to pull the axles. this is not a cover it is the complete differential and the axles are going to hold it in.
dennis112
15 Year Member
Looks like the copper washers are still intact against the housing. They would need removed in order to break the pumpkin loose.
I agree with the other posters, pull the axles or pump it out. If you do happen to break the seal, there is no guarantee that the gasket will still be functionable. Often it trys to stick to both parts.
There is another way to drain the rear. Remove the copper washer off of one of the bottom studs. Screw a nut on just enough to keep from damaging the threads. Then wack the nut/bolt with a hammer to drive the stud into the housing.. The studs are a press fit. Fluid will drain very slowly from around the small opening between the stud and the nut. Might take overnight. Once you consider it drained, simply pull the stud back into place by tightening the nut. Then remove the nut and add a new copper washer--Advance auto sells them in a kit. This method is not really recommended, but should work.
I agree with the other posters, pull the axles or pump it out. If you do happen to break the seal, there is no guarantee that the gasket will still be functionable. Often it trys to stick to both parts.
There is another way to drain the rear. Remove the copper washer off of one of the bottom studs. Screw a nut on just enough to keep from damaging the threads. Then wack the nut/bolt with a hammer to drive the stud into the housing.. The studs are a press fit. Fluid will drain very slowly from around the small opening between the stud and the nut. Might take overnight. Once you consider it drained, simply pull the stud back into place by tightening the nut. Then remove the nut and add a new copper washer--Advance auto sells them in a kit. This method is not really recommended, but should work.
1320stang
Founding Member
You beat me to it Dennis, the factory copper washers are still intact. That's what's keeping the third member in. You're method might work, but it'll take quite a while since the fluid is so thick and he doesn't mention if he's in a heated garage in Minnesota. I'd add to that idea though, I have a bendable magnetic tool, after whacking, I'd take the nut off completely and put the magnet on the tip of the bolt and press it thru the hole. Once all the fluid is drained, pull it back into the hole after you've cut the old copper washer with a chisel and pulled it off.
That being said, I've always been one to want to remove the center section to visually inspect the inside of the thing. It would suck not to do this, then have a catestrophic failure later and have to do it again, you never know what you might catch, plus you get a chance to inspect your wheel bearings and rear brakes and it might not be a bad idea to put in new axle seals.
That being said, I've always been one to want to remove the center section to visually inspect the inside of the thing. It would suck not to do this, then have a catestrophic failure later and have to do it again, you never know what you might catch, plus you get a chance to inspect your wheel bearings and rear brakes and it might not be a bad idea to put in new axle seals.
DukeGnarley
Member
i don't think ford planned on having these cars run for 40 year either. go to the parts store and rent an axle puller. i think Shucks will refund all your money when you bring the tool back.
no, but it's highly recommended.
ya know, i have to say that is probably the cleanest no-leaking looking rearend i think i've ever seen on a classic stang.
oh beware the rearend fluid!!!! it's made from whale sperm!!!!!!!!!! you only think modern gear lube stinks, you ain't smelled anything until you've layed nostrils on whale sperm gear lube!!!!
ok, my public service message for the day is done.
the new gear fluid is actually petroleum based, it stinks too but not nearly as bad as the whale sperm stuff from the 60's and earlier.
Well the gear fluid that is in there now is black and thick and sticky as possible. It doesn't smell that bad. I'm using Royal Purple to fill it back up.
I got some more questions:
-Where do I take my axles to get the old bearings pressed off and new ones pressed on?
-How do I replace the axle seals? I don't see any way to take them out.
-I was told to just use some RTV sealant instead of a gasket where the carrier meets the housing. Should I do that?
I got some more questions:
-Where do I take my axles to get the old bearings pressed off and new ones pressed on?
-How do I replace the axle seals? I don't see any way to take them out.
-I was told to just use some RTV sealant instead of a gasket where the carrier meets the housing. Should I do that?
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
1.) The average garage/rear end shop should be able to change axle bearings. I had a Pep Boys once turn me away because they said their press was too small for a Versailles axle.
2.) I use a dent puller with a nut and a washer on the end.
3.) That's what I did.....don't know if it's the right way.
