Rear End Suggestions

dpugh

New Member
Oct 22, 2001
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Bowie, MD
I'm looking into building up my rear end for my 2001 Mustang GT. It sports a Kenne Bell 2.6H pushing 560 rwhp. At this time the rear end is stock with 3.27 ratio gears. The problem that I'm running into is when i launch the car, it always pulls to the left or drivers side in which makes me think that wheel has the most power. The rear suspension is setup with H&R Supersport Springs, urathane insolators,Tokico 5-way adjustable shocks, steeda weighted jacker LCA and stock UCA. I do plan to push the supercharger beyond this point but after I've upgraded the transmission.

Thanks in advance..
 
I've been considering the same questions. When my heads get back from Livernois I'll be hitting the 500+ area and I have a similiar setup with the Steeda anti-sway bar back there. I'm either going with a Steeda 5-link 2 or some type of watts link. Haven't decided yet.
 
It's weird that it pulls to the left....
Our cars should always pull to the right due to the fact that the right wheel always receive more power with the stock T-lock......

I'm sorry I don't have anything to add just wanted to comment.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm looking into replacing the UCA with Metco (Looking for the strongest UCA with the least amount of noise that will tear up the mounts), diff (Auburn, Eaton, or Detroit Loc) and adding gears (3.73) with either 28 or 31 spline axles. I'm planning to run DR's when I go to the track, so I want to ensure that the car will track straight ahead will equal power to both wheels.

Any suggestions?
 
It's weird that it pulls to the left....
Our cars should always pull to the right due to the fact that the right wheel always receive more power with the stock T-lock......

I'm sorry I don't have anything to add just wanted to comment.

that's backward. More power to right rear wheel makes car turn to the left. Think about it a minute. Some right-pull is simply a result of engine torque twisting things as the engine tries to turn in the opposite direction the crankshaft turns (newtonian physics). Usually the left front wheel is the one that comes off the ground in a wheelie, while the right front wheel is compressed downward a bit.. all that turns into a right pull...
 
that's backward. More power to right rear wheel makes car turn to the left. Think about it a minute. Some right-pull is simply a result of engine torque twisting things as the engine tries to turn in the opposite direction the crankshaft turns (newtonian physics). Usually the left front wheel is the one that comes off the ground in a wheelie, while the right front wheel is compressed downward a bit.. all that turns into a right pull...

Well..... What you're saying makes sense if you have 100% traction(Ideal situation). But if the right wheel looses traction (which it will since it's getting more power) before the left, the friction coefficient of the right tire will be lower then the left which will make the car move to the right since the left will have more traction now.... (imagine you are going over black ice on your right tire). :shrug:
Think about it for a minute........
 
Well..... What you're saying makes sense if you have 100% traction(Ideal situation). But if the right wheel looses traction (which it will since it's getting more power) before the left, the friction coefficient of the right tire will be lower then the left which will make the car move to the right since the left will have more traction now.... (imagine you are going over black ice on your right tire). :shrug:
Think about it for a minute........
The right wheel gets more traction because the way the car twists under launch, it transfers the weight to the right rear. The left rear wheel loses traction because there's less weight on it. I added an air bag to the rr spring to aid my launch at the strip. An air bag would help. Also drag launch springs, or both. With drag launch springs, the right rear has a higher spring rate You could go with adjustable control arms as well that help reduce the weight transfer.
 
Well..... What you're saying makes sense if you have 100% traction(Ideal situation). But if the right wheel looses traction (which it will since it's getting more power) before the left, the friction coefficient of the right tire will be lower then the left which will make the car move to the right since the left will have more traction now.... (imagine you are going over black ice on your right tire). :shrug:
Think about it for a minute........

The problem is, in that case you are _not_ "getting more power to the right wheel". The right wheel is simply slipping/spinning... There is no way to "get more power to the right wheel". It comes down the driveshaft and splits at the differential. Until one wheel breaks loose power is identical on both sides. Once you break the wheel loose, and the limited slip clutches start to slip, you are done...

So how do you think you are getting more power to the right wheel? Or do you think that the setup problem you must have is somehow unbalancing the power to cause the RR tire to break loose first?
 
The clutches inside your differential are shot....this is why you're getting the "one wheel peel". I would recommend a new 31 spline Trac-Loc FRPP differential with Cobra carbon clutches. Then get some 31 spline axles with some slicks and you'll grab like a hooker from the Strip!!
 
The problem is, in that case you are _not_ "getting more power to the right wheel". The right wheel is simply slipping/spinning... There is no way to "get more power to the right wheel". It comes down the driveshaft and splits at the differential. Until one wheel breaks loose power is identical on both sides. Once you break the wheel loose, and the limited slip clutches start to slip, you are done...

So how do you think you are getting more power to the right wheel? Or do you think that the setup problem you must have is somehow unbalancing the power to cause the RR tire to break loose first?
posi's dont give equal traction to both wheels. That would be some sort of a locker.
 
There is no way to "get more power to the right wheel". It comes down the driveshaft and splits at the differential. Until one wheel breaks loose power is identical on both sides.

This thread is full of incorrect data.....
People, please research before you post....
An open differential only sends power to one wheel that's why if you peel out you will only see 1 tire marking, usually the right tire. The posi traction distributes power almost equally to both wheels while spinning them in the same direction for obviously more acceleration and traction. Usually the distribution is about 40/60 40% to the left tire and 60% to the right tire.

That's why when your clutches are worn out you will have one tire peel out!!!!!
With the RIGHT WHEEL!
So the tendency is for the right wheel to turn more than the left!!!!:eek:shock::shock:
 
Alright, I am new to these cars, but not cars in general, so here goes.
Viewed from the back, the driveshaft on ALL rear drive cars spins clockwise. As the pinion rotates, the ring gear tries to climb the pinion (equal and opposite force).
The effective result on this is a torque applied to the reaend housing in the opposite direction, unloading the right side tire.
Since the right tire has LESS traction, the power in the rearend will go to the right side, trac loc or not.
The purpose of the trac loc is to LESSEN the percentage to the right and more evenly split the torque transfer.
IRS does not have as much of an issue with this as a solid axle, but has it's own traction issues-mainly from the squirming of the control arms, and resonance in the upper control arm (see the issues with the hard charging TBird SC's).
The only way to guarantee a 50/50 split is either a spool or a mechanical locker.

Nick