That's my "logic". See one thing I have going on right now is I really want a Miata. I have been looking for a steal of a deal on one. Having that in the back of my head is saying scrap the road course for the fox. I mean a Miata is pretty much a "track" inspired car. Then I could just dedicate the fox to drag and see about some class rules.It's way easier to drag race a car optimized for road race than to road race a car optimized for drags, but the requirements are so different, I'd build the drag car and then buy somebody else's finished corner carver for pennies on the dollar.
Man I tell you what a little while back, all day long. Recently they have been pretty pricey. I will take either an NA or NB, if I could choose I'd get an NB. I haven't seen a RTR Track Miata for under $4k in about a month. I'd prefer one with the 1.8L and LSD and what not, however I wouldn't be opposed to a 90 model since it wouldn't need emissions.You should be able to find ready-to-run track-prepped miata's local to ATL for under $2500 without even trying hard.
Only thing that I don't like is I could have made that power with a factory 351 block.
Jumping in late here... I've made upwards of 950rwhp in a past personal project car with a hydraulic roller, its possible but not the easiest thing to do. As far as solid roller maintenance, good valve train plays a big part. With the stud rockers and girdle I was adjusting the valves after 8-10 passes. now with the shaft rockers and all good valve train parts I check them at least every time we head to the track but only adjusted them once every 40 or so passes including the street miles. The 275 tire will always be plenty. When I build any new chassis it will be on a 275 for sure, no questions about it. Street car on 275's cutting a 1.20... Hell yeah!@2000xp8
True on the higher rpm, then it's alot higher valvetrain cost correct? I need more info on this subject, for sure. Man I would love to be able to hear 8k revs! I definitely don't want a solid roller cam that I have to adjust the valves after every run. Is it even possible on a Hydr. Roller...
Well the 1000HP # is because I would love to race it later on down the road. I have no objections to getting used to the lower power numbers in this car first. Obviously that's what one would do. I'm just weighing options and doing my research. I would love to be in @84Ttop's shoes one day.
I'd like to stay 275's if possible. That's what I have now, but the BS on my wheels are so horrible they rubbed BAD. Recently I got an Eastwood fender roller, rolled the lip, and pulled the fenders out. Only one side barely rubs every now and again since I need to finish pulling. My car is lower than stock due to MM Adj. LCA's. How much did the PHB help? It must help a good bit, to be labeled the part Ford forgot ha-ha.
So far I've got the short block. I'm going to get a custom Hydr. Roller Cam (from Woody),a pair of 11R's, & either a Super Vic Intake/FAST 2 EFI. I figured when I talk to Jim about a cam, he knows this thing will need to be street-able. The cam and compression ratio will be my deciding factors whether it will be street-able or not, correct?
I appreciate you sharing knowledge and helping a fellow mustang/racing enthusiast. I agree one minute you're up and then the next you're down. I don't take anything on this forum as an insult, I have pretty thick skin.
@srtthis Thanks for the offer!
What were you revving the hydraulic roller motor to?Jumping in late here... I've made upwards of 950rwhp in a past personal project car with a hydraulic roller, its possible but not the easiest thing to do. As far as solid roller maintenance, good valve train plays a big part. With the stud rockers and girdle I was adjusting the valves after 8-10 passes. now with the shaft rockers and all good valve train parts I check them at least every time we head to the track but only adjusted them once every 40 or so passes including the street miles. The 275 tire will always be plenty. When I build any new chassis it will be on a 275 for sure, no questions about it. Street car on 275's cutting a 1.20... Hell yeah!
With the hydraulic can we saw 7800 with no issues, beyond that we had lifter trouble. My solid roller has been past 9k with no issues once hahaha. We shift at 8,200 and were trapping 8,800rpm in the 1/4. That is likely to be similar in 1/8th trim for this new season. We will be changing headgaskets a little more often like Derek and Co. Though lolWhat were you revving the hydraulic roller motor to?
Crap man 40 passes and street time. That's not bad. Most of the time I've had this car it's been more work than play. I can live with that. Too me the work is well worth it. How much of nightmare is your car to drive on the street compared to, say a 500-600hp fox? 1.20 60' FTW!!
Didn't put the phb on yet, one of those "i'll get to it" projects. But it will help, I know plenty of people that have done it.
Before I got to it I had to change the catback because there was zero chance of me running the car with no tailpipes and it didn't clear my last system. The bar does fit now (ultraflo welded catback), I test fitted it. But before I mount it permanently I'm redoing the rear, it still works well with my 15 year old auburn and moser 31 spline axles, but I don't want to have to remove the phb to work on the rear later. I have all the parts, but am in no rush since I probably won't drive the car for at least another 2 months.
My tires rub on the inside during cornering. Remember too, there is a big difference in running an 18 inch wheel for traction than there is a 15. You also have to consider brake clearance, so if you go with a big brake setup in the rear for road racing, you probably aren't going to be able to run a 15, or maybe even a 16.
There is also a big difference in running a car setup to transfer weight and one that is not. I did the drag setup thing, didn't last long, not sure a guy used to cornering is safe in a drag car on the street. It always seemed like I was one jughandle (we have those in NJ) away from landing up in the bushes.
As for compression, that is not my forte, I've always let more informed people make those decisions for me based on what I was trying to accomplish.
With the hydraulic can we saw 7800 with no issues, beyond that we had lifter trouble. My solid roller has been past 9k with no issues once hahaha. We shift at 8,200 and were trapping 8,800rpm in the 1/4. That is likely to be similar in 1/8th trim for this new season. We will be changing headgaskets a little more often like Derek and Co. Though lol
Stockish brakes? Try stopping 2-3 times hard in a short period of time with them, the first stop will be decent, the second will be quite a bit worse, the third? Hold on and reach for the E brake and hope it works.
I'm all about the brakes these days, in fact I think a set of big brakes should be on the top of any street cars list.
You can get up to speed in a powerful car much faster, therefore you may need to stop much quicker.
94/95 spindles with rear 94+ cobra discs was one of the best things I've ever done. I should have done it before adding any power.
Just remember with higher rpm there is always more risk and expense. So many here have come and gone with big dreams of high rpm monsters. Not sure I've seen anyone here pull it off that didn't own or work at a shop.
hopefully you run a narrower spring than we do. couple of the nuts up by the valve springs SUCK to torque!With the hydraulic can we saw 7800 with no issues, beyond that we had lifter trouble. My solid roller has been past 9k with no issues once hahaha. We shift at 8,200 and were trapping 8,800rpm in the 1/4. That is likely to be similar in 1/8th trim for this new season. We will be changing headgaskets a little more often like Derek and Co. Though lol
Nope, haha I so feel your pain on this one!hopefully you run a narrower spring than we do. couple of the nuts up by the valve springs SUCK to torque!
There is no harm in starting with a hydraulic roller and switching later on. The biggest expense will be the lifters and cost of the cam. While I run shaft rockers it's not mandatory and we haven't had them on every single build in years past. As far as streetablility, my car has great street manners and is very easy to drive and sit in traffic with. The radiator placement due to the gear drive is more of an issue than anything else. The driveability will all come down to the tune. I"ve driven 500rwhp mustangs that have terrible manners and just plain suck to drive while I've driven a fair share of 1,000+ rwhp cars that drive like a dream. Tune Tune Tune... there is no replacement for the amount of time that it takes to work all of the fine details out. Anyone can make hp on a dyno but it is truly an exercise of patience to tune driveability to that level no matter how much hp it makes.Does it make any sense to start with just a hydraulic setup and then later if I need more start the switch over? I'm trying to calculate cost difference (rough guesstimate will do) of Valvetrain setups. Hyd. VS Roller. I'm assuming all of your motors are shaft mount rockers? Ha-ha past 9k, holy crap! Any comments on how the car is on the street compared to anything with generously less power? I know that's kind of a loaded question.. lol.
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