Rear leaf spring moving

[Mustang67Coupe]

Rear leaf spring moving, fuel cell, bunch of q's

Hey guys, was wondering if theres anyway to switch the leaf springs to the other side of the frame rails, and then making a breaket for the back pivot point... Dont know if this has ever been done or not but im trying to get alittle more room back there, and doing alittle tubbin as well.

Will this effect handling majorly? or weaken anything much?

And is there a cheap route (as in money not quality) to modify the springs to allow for more room?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[crushnut]

Try these guys: http://www.critesrestoration.com/

Ive been told they make a spring relocation kit for early falcons. Not sure if it would work for early mustangs too, or they may even have a kit for early mustangs. Its worth a shot to give them a call or email to find out more.

Good Luck

 

[allcarfan]

Honestly, I dont see how you could possibly move the leaf springs in on our cars. The front Eyes might not be a problem...The rear passenger side may not be a problem...but I know on the drivers side it is TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT where the rear eye bolts to the shackle

 

[GaPonyFarm]

I don't see a simple bracket fabrication having enough strength to support that mod, especially under a racing load, which I'm guessing is why you're talking about tubbing.
You can move the frame rails, but its not a job to be done on the cheap. You'll also run right into the fuel tank, requiring the purchase of a fuel cell.

You gotta pay to play with the big dogs, if you don't have deep pockets, its better to stay on the porch with the little dogs.

 

[mtbdoc]

Well, it just so happens that we have just finished doing this! Basically new rear rails were made, as well as crossmembers. My '66 will be running a 331 stroker with 12-16 # boost via a Kenne Bell blower, and I don't want to simply set the world's burnout record! To fit 10-12" of rear tread requires some room. Currently a 9" rear end is being cut down...gotta measure for custom axles and wheels.

When I get a chance, I'll post a couple of pictures of the fabrication. We had hoped to finish this car in time for Nashville, but it is NOT going to happen! Oh well...I guess that is the nature of these projects!

 

[Sicarius428]

You will have to do a bit fabrication to make it work. The mustang torque boxes are kind of fragile when not used as originally designed so I am not sure if reloacting the leaf spring is going to be that easy or cheap.
Kevin

 

[crushnut]

It will be neither.

You gotta pay to play with the big dogs, if you don't have deep pockets, its better to stay on the porch with the little dogs.

Well said, and true

 

[Mustang67Coupe]

alright thanks guys for the info so far, i went out trying to make a design to make it work however it seemed near impossible without moding the rear valance and doing some mods to the gas tank. Ive decided if i ever go it i will most likely go with a fuel cell making the job much much easier to fab. Atleast it seems this way.

My idea was to run a cross member out of 3/8x2 1/2x3 from each rail in the back, then add two small blocks 3/8x2 1/2x3 steel extending down from the crossmember with a 2 inch hole (with two inch piping inserted in) for the top pivot point in the rear mounting of the leaf spring. The arms from the top pivot to the bottom pivot would have to be shortened. Then i would fab a braket for the from leaf spring mount still designing that.

So now my questions are if the leaf springs are moved in about 5 1/2 inches inward im estimating will the ride and handling suffer? I was thinking it may have alittle more body roll to it and a stiff spring may be needed.

Also anyone got a estimated cost of what it takes for a 16 gal fuel cell conversion im thinking 250 so far, but havent been through the experience like some of you.

I know its hard to understand what i was taling about in the design of the crossmember, ill try and make a few sketches, It will also involve some cutting of the current place where the fuel tank sits. Any concerns or comments are very welcome, Thanks Guys!

 

[allcarfan]

Anything is possible with the right amount of time and money. I dont see this 'conversion' costing any less than $2500 minimum. I may be off, i dont know. As for body roll...if you are tubbing your car in this manner, why are you even worried about it?

 

[mtbdoc]

A bit more information

On my '66 'vert, we have 3 crossmembers: one at the front spring mount, one at the rear spring mounts, and one at the area where the trunk tilts upward (if that makes sense). It is constructed from 2 x 3 tubing. Today my fabricator realized that it will take a bit of notching in the center member to clear the diff (9"). He has also added some other structural bracing, including very thick panel on the inside of the "new" wheel well. I will get some pictures and post over the weekend.

I am going to install the 20 gal fuel cell from Summit. If you look at the ridiculous prices for "mustang" fuel cells (drop in gas tank replacement), the $800 saved goes a LOOONNNNGGGG way on fabrication expense!

As for the handling, we shall see. This car is going to be a total mutant anyway, with R & C tubular/coilover "MII-style" front suspension w/ rack & pinion...and with 600-700 hp, a real handful! Just depressed it is not going to be ready for Nashville next month!

Also, Martz chassis has a nice looking rear suspension unit w/ coilovers. Cost is not bad (1250 IIRC), plus labor. Probably better for corner carving than my setup...considering it for my 2+2 once this is completed and my funds are replenished.