It may not be. When I pulled the intake off last time I found the gaskets I used split in half and leaked oil out the back. I thought for the longest time I had a rear main seal leak. When I reinstalled the intake I used a thick bead of silicon instead of the supplied gaskets and the leak went away. All that nasty oil around the flywheel pan cleaned up after a couple months.
Good point. He'd have to have a look at the top of the bellhousing to see if its full of oil there, but it looks to me that its coming from a spot exactly the size of the RMS, and it doesn't look like its running down the sides of the bellhousing.
damn, I would almost say the whole pan gasket. But I would almost say like 90% rear main, and the rest other stuff from the looks.
What was the oil pres.?
Mine has a slight rear main leak (just alittle haze right at the bottom not enough to drip or leave a spot) but also has 65-70psi cold startup and 55-60psi warm with 70-75psi at anything 2,000-2,500rpm warm on a STD. volume pump . With that kind of numbers I would hope something had a slight leak from all that pres.
yeah, the rear-mains leak alot on our cars, mines leaking a little, its comes with the miles and the years, its minimal so I'm leaving it alone until I can afford a new motor
My rear main leaks a bit, but it never drips so I dont worry about it. You could take the engine apart and replace all the seals/gaskets if you are bored. If it doesn't drip I wouldn't be concerned though.
The oil in #8 could also be from the valve seals letting oil get into the combustion chamber. Looks a little excessive with oil chasing spark plug threads. The higher compression makes me lean more in the way of valve seals because if the oil was getting past the rings i would think the compression would be a bit lower.
Also looks like a combo of rear main and oil pan gasket leaks. my rear main leak was not as bad as yours looks but that is what pushed me to build motor!!