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Rear main seal leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter sgw_88FoxGT
  • Start date Start date Aug 20, 2008
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nisreo

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Jul 22, 2006
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Aug 22, 2008
#21
  • Aug 22, 2008
  • #21
first time I ever worked on a a car was replacing the motor I blew up on my chevy beretta. Gotta learn somehow.

Be careful not no put a scratch or nick in the crank when your prying the seal out.
 

Aryan15

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Sep 22, 2003
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Aug 23, 2008
#22
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #22
An easy way of removing those seals is to drill 3 small holes evenly around into the metal portion of the seal, thread a screw into each hole, and slide hammer the seal out.
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Aug 23, 2008
#23
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #23
1 piece rear mains have been in use on the H.O since 1982. use Aryan15 method to pull out the seal if you don't have a seal puller. you don't want to scar up the mating surface. use a light grease and lightly coat the block and I.D. rubber surface of the seal, also lightly coat the end of the crank to prevent a dry start against the seal. It's also a good idea before you put the seal on to run your fingers around the end of the crank and make sure it's smoothe and use some emery cloth if needed.

once you place the seal againt the block if you don't have a big socket or something about the same dia to tap against to getting going in even, just tap nice and even and go slow until it starts going in then go around it to make sure it's seated, reassemble. I used the new ford teflon one and I still get some weaping, no huge drips but it isn't dry either. I guess the 302 just likes to leak . good luck.
 

4G-KDMP

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2005
935
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Aug 23, 2008
#24
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #24
greensvt21

Do you have the part # for the new Ford Teflon seal, I'd be interested in one of those?
 
B

bentley429

Banned
Nov 25, 2004
528
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Connecticut
Aug 23, 2008
#25
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #25
If it makes any difference when I put my last rear main seal in I put a light coat of "the right stuff" around the outter part of it. It actually doesn't leak now, so the tranny front seal does instead!
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Aug 23, 2008
#26
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #26
4G-KDMP said:
greensvt21

Do you have the part # for the new Ford Teflon seal, I'd be interested in one of those?
Click to expand...

This is the seal I meant its is made by felpro and is a really nice seal, Ford does sell a teflon one also that from what I'm told is made by felpro,

Fel-Pro Performance 2941 - Fel-Pro Performance Rear Main Bearing Seals - summitracing.com
 

4G-KDMP

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Aug 23, 2008
#27
  • Aug 23, 2008
  • #27
greensvt21

Thanks for the info!



greensvt21 said:
1 piece rear mains have been in use on the H.O since 1982. use Aryan15 method to pull out the seal if you don't have a seal puller. you don't want to scar up the mating surface. use a light grease and lightly coat the block and I.D. rubber surface of the seal, also lightly coat the end of the crank to prevent a dry start against the seal. It's also a good idea before you put the seal on to run your fingers around the end of the crank and make sure it's smoothe and use some emery cloth if needed.

once you place the seal againt the block if you don't have a big socket or something about the same dia to tap against to getting going in even, just tap nice and even and go slow until it starts going in then go around it to make sure it's seated, reassemble. I used the new ford teflon one and I still get some weaping, no huge drips but it isn't dry either. I guess the 302 just likes to leak . good luck.
Click to expand...

I'm almost positive I read some where that with a Teflon seal should be installed dry and without a light coat of grease, did you come across that any where in the install inst?

Could that be a possibly reason for the weeping?
 

skunk21

Active Member
May 22, 2007
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Taxachusetts
Aug 24, 2008
#28
  • Aug 24, 2008
  • #28
4G-KDMP said:
greensvt21

Thanks for the info!





I'm almost positive I read some where that with a Teflon seal should be installed dry and without a light coat of grease, did you come across that any where in the install inst?

Could that be a possibly reason for the weeping?
Click to expand...

Hmm, don't know and never heard of that. I just went and did what I always do basically pulled the seal out the box and prepped it and installed it. I used a very, very light coat didn't gob it on. it's not a brand new engine and oil doesn't hit the ground, way better than the previous leak which left half dollar sized marks everywhere.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Aug 24, 2008
#29
  • Aug 24, 2008
  • #29
like everyone said, if the seal isnt leaking too bad, i'd leave it.

if the gets really bad or you need to replace the clutch, then i would start in on it.

sort of sucks to pull all the tranny and exhaust out, pull the clutch and flywheel just to replace the silly seal. but if you need to replace the clutch at the same time it makes it alot better. sort of like killing two birds with one stone.

i always use a tiny screw driver tap it in and pry the seal out, comes out with little force and doesnt scratch anything, lube the inside of the new seal (part touching crank) with some engine oil and tap the new seal in. (i use a piece of PVC pipe that fits on the seal perfectly to even push it in)
 

4G-KDMP

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Aug 25, 2008
#30
  • Aug 25, 2008
  • #30
greensvt21 said:
Hmm, don't know and never heard of that. I just went and did what I always do basically pulled the seal out the box and prepped it and installed it. I used a very, very light coat didn't gob it on. it's not a brand new engine and oil doesn't hit the ground, way better than the previous leak which left half dollar sized marks everywhere.
Click to expand...


I found this on another site was the only reason I asked.

View attachment 306289
 
8

885.0conv

Member
Jan 9, 2008
238
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16
Phoenix, Az
Aug 30, 2008
#31
  • Aug 30, 2008
  • #31
Replacing the seal is not a hard job did mine about 3 months ago by myself and I just started working on cars. Took me about 3 days but it was better than paying the 1200 the shop wanted. It would be a lot easier with some help. Make sure you get a good jack to drop the tranny. Tried to used the kit from autozone to turn you floor jack into a tranny jack and it didnt work very well. I opted to get the tool from sears to install the gasket to make sure that is in at the right depth.
 
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