Rear main seal leak
- Thread starter sgw_88FoxGT
- Start date
skunk21
Active Member
1 piece rear mains have been in use on the H.O since 1982. use Aryan15 method to pull out the seal if you don't have a seal puller. you don't want to scar up the mating surface. use a light grease and lightly coat the block and I.D. rubber surface of the seal, also lightly coat the end of the crank to prevent a dry start against the seal. It's also a good idea before you put the seal on to run your fingers around the end of the crank and make sure it's smoothe and use some emery cloth if needed.
once you place the seal againt the block if you don't have a big socket or something about the same dia to tap against to getting going in even, just tap nice and even and go slow until it starts going in then go around it to make sure it's seated, reassemble. I used the new ford teflon one and I still get some weaping, no huge drips but it isn't dry either. I guess the 302 just likes to leak
. good luck.
once you place the seal againt the block if you don't have a big socket or something about the same dia to tap against to getting going in even, just tap nice and even and go slow until it starts going in then go around it to make sure it's seated, reassemble. I used the new ford teflon one and I still get some weaping, no huge drips but it isn't dry either. I guess the 302 just likes to leak
. good luck.
skunk21
Active Member
This is the seal I meant its is made by felpro and is a really nice seal, Ford does sell a teflon one also that from what I'm told is made by felpro,
Fel-Pro Performance 2941 - Fel-Pro Performance Rear Main Bearing Seals - summitracing.com
greensvt21
Thanks for the info!
I'm almost positive I read some where that with a Teflon seal should be installed dry and without a light coat of grease, did you come across that any where in the install inst?
Could that be a possibly reason for the weeping?
Thanks for the info!
1 piece rear mains have been in use on the H.O since 1982. use Aryan15 method to pull out the seal if you don't have a seal puller. you don't want to scar up the mating surface. use a light grease and lightly coat the block and I.D. rubber surface of the seal, also lightly coat the end of the crank to prevent a dry start against the seal. It's also a good idea before you put the seal on to run your fingers around the end of the crank and make sure it's smoothe and use some emery cloth if needed.
once you place the seal againt the block if you don't have a big socket or something about the same dia to tap against to getting going in even, just tap nice and even and go slow until it starts going in then go around it to make sure it's seated, reassemble. I used the new ford teflon one and I still get some weaping, no huge drips but it isn't dry either. I guess the 302 just likes to leak
I'm almost positive I read some where that with a Teflon seal should be installed dry and without a light coat of grease, did you come across that any where in the install inst?
Could that be a possibly reason for the weeping?
skunk21
Active Member
Hmm, don't know and never heard of that. I just went and did what I always do basically pulled the seal out the box and prepped it and installed it. I used a very, very light coat didn't gob it on. it's not a brand new engine and oil doesn't hit the ground, way better than the previous leak which left half dollar sized marks everywhere.
like everyone said, if the seal isnt leaking too bad, i'd leave it.
if the gets really bad or you need to replace the clutch, then i would start in on it.
sort of sucks to pull all the tranny and exhaust out, pull the clutch and flywheel just to replace the silly seal. but if you need to replace the clutch at the same time it makes it alot better. sort of like killing two birds with one stone.
i always use a tiny screw driver tap it in and pry the seal out, comes out with little force and doesnt scratch anything, lube the inside of the new seal (part touching crank) with some engine oil and tap the new seal in. (i use a piece of PVC pipe that fits on the seal perfectly to even push it in)
if the gets really bad or you need to replace the clutch, then i would start in on it.
sort of sucks to pull all the tranny and exhaust out, pull the clutch and flywheel just to replace the silly seal. but if you need to replace the clutch at the same time it makes it alot better. sort of like killing two birds with one stone.
i always use a tiny screw driver tap it in and pry the seal out, comes out with little force and doesnt scratch anything, lube the inside of the new seal (part touching crank) with some engine oil and tap the new seal in. (i use a piece of PVC pipe that fits on the seal perfectly to even push it in)
Replacing the seal is not a hard job did mine about 3 months ago by myself and I just started working on cars. Took me about 3 days but it was better than paying the 1200 the shop wanted. It would be a lot easier with some help. Make sure you get a good jack to drop the tranny. Tried to used the kit from autozone to turn you floor jack into a tranny jack and it didnt work very well. I opted to get the tool from sears to install the gasket to make sure that is in at the right depth.
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