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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Rear Main Seal Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter k00ksta
  • Start date Start date Jan 22, 2009
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tderrick

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Oct 27, 2004
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Jan 27, 2009
#21
  • Jan 27, 2009
  • #21
revhead347 said:
Yeah, I always take a little sandpaper to the crank when I change an RMS.

kurt
Click to expand...

Do you use emory cloth type grit ??

And is this to get a little worked up surface for the seal to grab on to??
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
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Acworth, GA
Jan 27, 2009
#22
  • Jan 27, 2009
  • #22
I just use some 400 grit or something like that, and do a quick sanding around the edge of the crank. The seal actually has a break in process with the crankshaft. You just have to rough up the surface a little to get a fresh break in. I don't think it's a big deal if you neglect to sand the crank. Odds are it's going to break in anyway.

Kurt
 
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s-trimmed

New Member
Jun 3, 2006
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the united STABLE of america
Feb 4, 2009
#23
  • Feb 4, 2009
  • #23
great post and a special thanks to ADAM for posting the pictures, alongwith some great helpful tips added form others. I have yet to have to do this yet although I probably should. Everytime I'm under the car I see a bit of of seepage that looks to be coming from the RMS. Which would make sense as I am running a pretty stout boosted setup, while utilizing only the small breather from the oil fill neck venting it to the atmosphere.
I have one question though to ask REVHEAD. He stated that you don't have to pull the whole trans and bellhousing out together in one piece. But if you are strong enough to do so, like ADAM, is there any benefit of taking them out seperately? For instance I noticed in ADAM'S pic, that he did have the clutch unit all apart, but when taking it out in one piece is it possible to keep the clutch/pressure plate/and throw-out bearing all together on the input shaft? Thanks
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
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Vernon BC
Feb 4, 2009
#24
  • Feb 4, 2009
  • #24
k00ksta said:
Sweet thanks guys .. You think it would make my life easier if I get a small Transmission jack? I probably will be doing it by myself here :]
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that with only 10 miles on the build that unless the RMS was damaged that's not the source of the oil leak. I wouldn't be surprised if it is leaking at the rear intake to block interface. Keep us posted.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
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Acworth, GA
Feb 7, 2009
#25
  • Feb 7, 2009
  • #25
s-trimmed said:
great post and a special thanks to ADAM for posting the pictures, alongwith some great helpful tips added form others. I have yet to have to do this yet although I probably should. Everytime I'm under the car I see a bit of of seepage that looks to be coming from the RMS. Which would make sense as I am running a pretty stout boosted setup, while utilizing only the small breather from the oil fill neck venting it to the atmosphere.
I have one question though to ask REVHEAD. He stated that you don't have to pull the whole trans and bellhousing out together in one piece. But if you are strong enough to do so, like ADAM, is there any benefit of taking them out seperately? For instance I noticed in ADAM'S pic, that he did have the clutch unit all apart, but when taking it out in one piece is it possible to keep the clutch/pressure plate/and throw-out bearing all together on the input shaft? Thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah, it will come out just fine. The throwout bearing is attached to the clutch fork which will come out with the bell housing. The pressure plate is polted to the flywheel. However, it is much easier to take the transmission out seperately from the bellhousing. It's a necessity if you have longtubes.

Kurt
 
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Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
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Feb 7, 2009
#26
  • Feb 7, 2009
  • #26
When replacing the seal, can I add anything like rubber gasket maker on the inside diameter of the seal (where it should make contact with the crank shaft?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
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214
Acworth, GA
Feb 7, 2009
#27
  • Feb 7, 2009
  • #27
Road_Runna said:
When replacing the seal, can I add anything like rubber gasket maker on the inside diameter of the seal (where it should make contact with the crank shaft?
Click to expand...

Not sure why you would want . It doesn't exactly work like that.

Kurt
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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Feb 8, 2009
#28
  • Feb 8, 2009
  • #28
You cannot goop up the seal lip, other than using a little grease to prevent tearing.

Some people (myself included) do RTV the outer circumference of the seal's housing (the metal part) to help deal with any irregularities in the metal.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Feb 8, 2009
#29
  • Feb 8, 2009
  • #29



more pictures if needed... you can see my tob broke in to several pieces.... the ball bearings were in the bell housing....
 

k00ksta

Member
May 13, 2007
158
0
17
Chicago
Feb 10, 2009
#30
  • Feb 10, 2009
  • #30
toyman said:
I'm thinking that with only 10 miles on the build that unless the RMS was damaged that's not the source of the oil leak. I wouldn't be surprised if it is leaking at the rear intake to block interface. Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

This week I am going to pull the heads off and check for sure because I also really doubt the RMS is already leaking. What Head gaskets you guys running with your Trick flo Twisted Wedge Heads? I have been using a set of Felpro blue's. Thanks guys for all the great replies!
 
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