Do you use emory cloth type grit ??
And is this to get a little worked up surface for the seal to grab on to??
Rear Main Seal Replacement
- Thread starter k00ksta
- Start date
Do you use emory cloth type grit ??
And is this to get a little worked up surface for the seal to grab on to??
I just use some 400 grit or something like that, and do a quick sanding around the edge of the crank. The seal actually has a break in process with the crankshaft. You just have to rough up the surface a little to get a fresh break in. I don't think it's a big deal if you neglect to sand the crank. Odds are it's going to break in anyway.
Kurt
Kurt
great post and a special thanks to ADAM for posting the pictures, alongwith some great helpful tips added form others. I have yet to have to do this yet although I probably should. Everytime I'm under the car I see a bit of of seepage that looks to be coming from the RMS. Which would make sense as I am running a pretty stout boosted setup, while utilizing only the small breather from the oil fill neck venting it to the atmosphere.
I have one question though to ask REVHEAD. He stated that you don't have to pull the whole trans and bellhousing out together in one piece. But if you are strong enough to do so, like ADAM, is there any benefit of taking them out seperately? For instance I noticed in ADAM'S pic, that he did have the clutch unit all apart, but when taking it out in one piece is it possible to keep the clutch/pressure plate/and throw-out bearing all together on the input shaft? Thanks
I have one question though to ask REVHEAD. He stated that you don't have to pull the whole trans and bellhousing out together in one piece. But if you are strong enough to do so, like ADAM, is there any benefit of taking them out seperately? For instance I noticed in ADAM'S pic, that he did have the clutch unit all apart, but when taking it out in one piece is it possible to keep the clutch/pressure plate/and throw-out bearing all together on the input shaft? Thanks
I'm thinking that with only 10 miles on the build that unless the RMS was damaged that's not the source of the oil leak. I wouldn't be surprised if it is leaking at the rear intake to block interface. Keep us posted.
Yeah, it will come out just fine. The throwout bearing is attached to the clutch fork which will come out with the bell housing. The pressure plate is polted to the flywheel. However, it is much easier to take the transmission out seperately from the bellhousing. It's a necessity if you have longtubes.
Kurt
Road_Runna
20+ Year Stangneter 
When replacing the seal, can I add anything like rubber gasket maker on the inside diameter of the seal (where it should make contact with the crank shaft?
You cannot goop up the seal lip, other than using a little grease to prevent tearing.
Some people (myself included) do RTV the outer circumference of the seal's housing (the metal part) to help deal with any irregularities in the metal.
Some people (myself included) do RTV the outer circumference of the seal's housing (the metal part) to help deal with any irregularities in the metal.
Adam95GT
New Member
more pictures if needed... you can see my tob broke in to several pieces.... the ball bearings were in the bell housing....
This week I am going to pull the heads off and check for sure because I also really doubt the RMS is already leaking. What Head gaskets you guys running with your Trick flo Twisted Wedge Heads? I have been using a set of Felpro blue's. Thanks guys for all the great replies!
