Yep. With the exception of the Bronco and F-150 rear ends all the 8,8 axles will be 28 spline and will interchange. (Until you get into the later years 1998? and up) Its very easy, just takes a little time and can be a little messy. Nothing stains more then old gear lube. Get a manual and follow it.jstang209 said:
Swapping Axles in 25 Easy Steps
Not correct. The Ranger 8.8 and all Aerostar 8.8 axles have 31 spline axles.
Swapping axles is incredibly easy. I just did the axle swap trick this past weekend. I switched to the ranger axles for my car. You don't need a manual it's so easy.
1.) Jack the car up and place jack stands under the car.
2.) Remove the rear wheels and the brake drums.
3.) Place an oil catch can under the pumpkin housing.
4.) Loosen the rear end cover, but don't remove it yet, and let the oil drain into the catch can.
5.) Once oil flow has nearly stopped totally remove the rear cover.
6.) Rotate the rear axle so you can remove the cross pin retaining bolt (8mm or 5/16" -both fit)
7.) Remove the cross pin out of the center section. *A NOTE: There are 2 S shaped springs holding the side gears in place. DO NOT remove them or you will have a pain in the as getting it all back together. If you must rotate the axles without the crosspin installed do so carefully and slowly.*
8.) With the cross pin removed you can push the axle in and use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the C-clip. They come out with no resistence. You have to reach through the S-shaped spring so be cautious. Space is tight, but there is enough room.
9.) Now you can pull the axles out.
10.) Remove and replace the old axle seals.
11.) Inspect and replace the outer axle bearings if needed or if you want.
12.) Clean the axle bearing surfaces with emery cloth.
13.) Ensure that the rubber O-ring is on both axles where the clips hold the axle. Install one/both if they are not present.
14.) Install both axles.
15.) Place the clips on the axles and pull them out till they stop.
16.) Wipe clean and reinstall the crosspin.
17.) Reinstall the cross pin retaining bolt and make sure it's very tight. A rear axle destroying catastrophy will result if it loosens and lets the cross pin fall out.
18.) Thoroughly clean the axle housing serface where the cover bolts on. remove all trace of sealent.
19.) Do the same with the axle cover also.
20.) Run a bead of RTV around the housing being sure to circle each bolt hole.
21.) Reinstall the axle housing cover. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Let the RTV sit for about 10-15 minutes.
22.) Fill the rear axle housing with 2 quarts of 85-140 diff lube. Good diff lube has friction modifier in it all ready. Add it only if it doesn't have the friction modifier in it.
23.) Now comes a point where you must make a judgment call. Depending how worn you rear brakes are, you may want to put in new brake shoes and have the rear drums turned.
24.) Reinstall the brake drums for the new axles and the rear wheels.
25.) Raise the car off the jack stands, remove the jack stands and lower the car. You're done.
Fishhawk said:
Not correct. The Ranger 8.8 and all Aerostar 8.8 axles have 31 spline axles.
Swapping axles is incredibly easy. I just did the axle swap trick this past weekend. I switched to the ranger axles for my car. You don't need a manual it's so easy.
1.) Jack the car up and place jack stands under the car.
2.) Remove the rear wheels and the brake drums.
3.) Place an oil catch can under the pumpkin housing.
4.) Loosen the rear end cover, but don't remove it yet, and let the oil drain into the catch can.
5.) Once oil flow has nearly stopped totally remove the rear cover.
6.) Rotate the rear axle so you can remove the cross pin retaining bolt (8mm or 5/16" -both fit)
7.) Remove the cross pin out of the center section. *A NOTE: There are 2 S shaped springs holding the side gears in place. DO NOT remove them or you will have a pain in the as getting it all back together. If you must rotate the axles without the crosspin installed do so carefully and slowly.*
8.) With the cross pin removed you can push the axle in and use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the C-clip. They come out with no resistence. You have to reach through the S-shaped spring so be cautious. Space is tight, but there is enough room.
9.) Now you can pull the axles out.
10.) Remove and replace the old axle seals.
11.) Inspect and replace the outer axle bearings if needed or if you want.
12.) Clean the axle bearing surfaces with emery cloth.
13.) Ensure that the rubber O-ring is on both axles where the clips hold the axle. Install one/both if they are not present.
14.) Install both axles.
15.) Place the clips on the axles and pull them out till they stop.
16.) Wipe clean and reinstall the crosspin.
17.) Reinstall the cross pin retaining bolt and make sure it's very tight. A rear axle destroying catastrophy will result if it loosens and lets the cross pin fall out.
18.) Thoroughly clean the axle housing serface where the cover bolts on. remove all trace of sealent.
19.) Do the same with the axle cover also.
20.) Run a bead of RTV around the housing being sure to circle each bolt hole.
21.) Reinstall the axle housing cover. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Let the RTV sit for about 10-15 minutes.
22.) Fill the rear axle housing with 2 quarts of 85-140 diff lube. Good diff lube has friction modifier in it all ready. Add it only if it doesn't have the friction modifier in it.
23.) Now comes a point where you must make a judgment call. Depending how worn you rear brakes are, you may want to put in new brake shoes and have the rear drums turned.
24.) Reinstall the brake drums for the new axles and the rear wheels.
25.) Raise the car off the jack stands, remove the jack stands and lower the car. You're done.