rebuild or new engine?

pk89 5.0 · Jan 24, 2008

Hey guys, I got an 89 mustang GT with around 170,000 miles on it. Other than flowmasters msd coil and a BBK CAI its stock it has also had a 150 shot of nos put on it, it still has the kit but i don't use it and i don't know how much its been used. I'm trying to decide whether to rebuild my engine with a rebuild kit or should i get a used engine with low miles?
To me, my car doesn't really feel like it needs to be rebuilt I just want to make sure before i start doing any serious mods that i have a solid foundation.
Is their a way i can check my engine to see how much life is left in it? I know i can do a compression test a leak down test and have my ecu remapped to check the codes but i dont know where this can be done. I live withen and hour of Modesto and Stocton and Sacramento does anyone know where this can be done?

When and if i rebuild my engine I was planning on getting some different heads, I was considering the gt40 heads because a lot of people use these and it seems like if that many people are using them they must be good. what cars and what years are they on? i know the 97 explorers but what else
Thanks for any advice in advance.
P

Danman765432 · Jan 24, 2008

The main question should maybe be what is your realistic goal for your car? That could depend on a lot of things and which directions people will point you in.

-Dan

pk89 5.0 · Jan 24, 2008

i'm planning on keeping this car for a long time. i'm planning on using it as my daily driver but still be able to take it to the track once in a while

85_SS_302_Coupe · Jan 25, 2008

If YOU have the ability to really and seriously rebuild your engine the right way, why not? The thing is, by the time you spend money on machining the block (which, if you do it "right" that's how you do it) and buy a good quality rebuild kit, you're just a few bucks shy of buying a $1200 short block that you can get with better pistons and possibly even stroked. For the long run, that's what i'd do, but i'm sort of in your shoes and i'm going to throw a Summit rebuild kit on an Explorer 302 and run it until it pukes.

Danman765432 · Jan 25, 2008

Now it pretty much comes down to how much money you would like to spend and how much power you would like to get out of the car. I say if you have enough money to do a reliable rebuild that is what I would do.

pk89 5.0 · Jan 25, 2008

i don't exactly have all the tools to do the job but I'm sure I can barrow them from friends and they will help me, the only problems would be not having a car for a while and money. How much would a complete rebuild cost and what all would it consist of?

backfocus · Jan 25, 2008

If you are worried about not having a car and are not sure about tools and the how to, but still want to do it yourself I would say new or used block. Get a new or used block and rebuild it yourself at you own pace and know how. This way you could still drive you current car and build your motor. The only time you would be down is for pulling the old motor, transferring the accessories and other miscellaneous items, and putting the new motor back in. Yes it maybe slightly more expensive because you have to buy a block, but the rest would be the same cost.

You would probably be looking at having the car down a weekend or a week, depending on your knowledge. If you rebuilt your block, your guess is good as mine. It took my machine shop 12 weeks just to get to my block, which they told me upfront. But the good shops usually have a back log.

As far as what price it, really depends on your area as far a cost goes, it greatly varies all around the country. I had the heads reworked, new bearings, freeze plugs and all cyclinders honed and it cost $650. Plus I bought my rebuild kit from them for $150, just rings and bearing, I already had the pistons.

Keep in mind when rebuilding a motor that all those gaskets, bolts, bearing, fluids and other miscellaneous items add up. I have seen people spend anywhere from $700 to $1500 and more just for a rebuild. It just depends on how much you are willng and able to do, and how much shopping around you want to do.

2000xp8 · Jan 25, 2008

Build an entirely new engine while you use the car.
The only stuff that will probably be re usable at the end is the accessories, harness, sensors and fuel parts.
Everything else will be new anyway if are going with a h/c/i setup.

bloopbloob · Jan 25, 2008

my rebuild cost me $1800, and some places wanted as much as $2600

pk89 5.0 · Jan 25, 2008

I was thinking about doing that but im trying to get it done without currently having a job. i have around 500-550 so i was thinking about looking around for a rebuilt engine and if I had any money left get some gt40 heads but i doubt ill be able to get the heads while still not having a job.

5spd GT · Jan 25, 2008

My rebuild (306), with Probe pistons/rings and ARP studs and bolts, cost me around $2000 from www.keithcraft.com.

2000xp8 · Jan 25, 2008

pk89 5.0 said:
I was thinking about doing that but im trying to get it done without currently having a job. i have around 500-550 so i was thinking about looking around for a rebuilt engine and if I had any money left get some gt40 heads but i doubt ill be able to get the heads while still not having a job.

You are way under budget.
Gaskets and bolts will use up 25% of that money and you won't of even done anything yet.

For the moment i'd just take care of the car the way it is, the best you can.

pk89 5.0 · Jan 25, 2008

what about just a new ring kit?

2000xp8 · Jan 25, 2008

It's not worth the effort.
Does your car burn alot of oil?
If not, i wouldn't be all that worried.
I know guys with 250,000 on the clock.
Keep saving, and when you have enough, get a cobra shortblock for like $1300.

fox-gt · Jan 25, 2008

My engine rebuild was $1,000, $700 to take it in, out and assemble, plus al heads,cam,intake, tb, tb spacer, rocker arms, bolts, etc

The old engine broke ring #6 at 144,000 miles. I had compression test done two weeks before and they found all cylinders within acceptable ranges.

The guy who did my engine really jacked it up. It has less than 10,000 miles on it and is leaking oil from the rear main seal, oil pan gasket and I have been through 5 water pumps in 6 months. He won't return my calls and I it would cost me more to sue than it's worth. I ended up retiring it as a DD. If I had it to do over again I would buy a crate motor.

pk89 5.0 · Jan 26, 2008

throught the 3 months I've had my car its gone it was a quart low once and that was because the retards who did the oil change didn't tighten the drain plug. other than that it has burnt no oil.

so since i can't rebuild my engine now i'm just going to do a compression test and check the codes on the computer. is there anything else i can do? and shouldn't the compression be at 150 psi per cylinder?

also, i had A little accident a while ago and since then my odometer has jumped from 170,000 to over 500,000 since then i have put about 200 miles on it. is there anyway i can fix this or should i just not worry about it? i dont really car because i dont plan on selling it, it just bothers me and its hard to check my mpg since it reads a lot faster now, the spedos find but the trip meter goes like a mile for every quarter mile

thank you guys for all your help

pk89 5.0 · Jan 27, 2008

anyone?

corvetteguy · Jan 27, 2008

1989
Engine
Ford Mustang -302,RAN GOOD,150 COMP,CHNGOVER W/5SPD-108K 108,000 A O2833 $Call Select Auto and Truck Recyclers USA-CA(Redding) Request_Quote 1-800-252-5032 Request_Insurance

rebuild or new engine?

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