rebuilt car that wont start need help!!!

01mustgt · Nov 3, 2010

i just rebuilt my 01 mustang gt with a 20 over bore and port n polished heads. i added new long tube headers, a cold air intake, and an upper plenum spacer. i also added a new touch screen radio. after finishing installing everything i changed out the old gas with new and attempted to crank the motor. it was a failure. after a while of trying i check a spark plug to see how the looked and not a lick of gas was on them. no odor or anything. the fuel pump is working all fuses are good and my fuel rails are getting all the presure they need but my injectors wont shoot. i was told it could be a ground, the pats system, and even the new stereo i installed but i still cant get the car to start. i put back the old radio, checked all fuses and looked for any unconnected ground wires. the car still wont start. just cranks all day. please help. i really love this car and dont want to junk it and take losses.

wmburns · Nov 3, 2010

Confirm what the "theft" light is doing. Turn the key on and confirm the theft light goes out after a 3 second prove out. Try cranking. Does it blink during cranking (or fast blink at anytime)? If so, spark is being disabled because of PATS.

Check fuse F2.2 and F2.8 in the CJB. Not a bad idea to check all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel (F2=CJB).

Confirm there is +12 volts on the Fuel injector RD wire (key on).

Check the CKP sensor. Is it plugged in? Is the connector clean and tight? Does the tach bounce during cranking? Do you have an ODB2 scanner to monitor RPM's during cranking? Look for the RPM's to change. No change = CKP problem.

The CKP is a no start sensor. No CKP = No start.

Check the CAM sensor. Is it plugged in?

Get a set of "noid" style test lights. Put across the injectors to confirm a firing pulse. Do the same test for the COP's. Post.

99gt2fast4u · Nov 3, 2010

+1 on the PATS... I just rebuilt my engine and did the same thing and when i went to start it up the engine light keep going on and off while trying to start so I had to spend 120.00 to get someone to come out and make 2 new keys.

trinity_gt · Nov 3, 2010

When you put the timing cover on the engine was the ignition trigger wheel in place?

wmburns · Nov 4, 2010

trinity_gt said:
When you put the timing cover on the engine was the ignition trigger wheel in place?

Ouch! However, it's a plausible explanation for the problem and the kind of thing that could happen after a motor rebuild.

Certainly would think this is easy to confirm. Remove the CKP sensor and feel for the teeth of the reluctor wheel. If nothing is there, likely we have an answer.

If it turns out to be no trigger wheel, I wonder if we will get an update.

01mustgt · Nov 4, 2010

today i called a guy to come out n check my key to see if that was the problem. nope he reprogrammed the key to the car and still didnt start. i checked all fuses again under the hood and under the dash still nothing. my theft light stays on constantly while i am turning over the engine. but i never did check the ckp or the trigger wheel. i was just so excited to have the engine done i slapped everything back together n put in the motor. so right now i am going to go check to see if that is the problem thanks very much.

hotcobra03 · Nov 4, 2010

no-start

i just got done with a head replacement on my 03 cobra...

i noticed on mine the green wire on crank sensor is very brittle and about a 1/2 in of wire at end is exposed..

wonder if a short there would cause this problem

wmburns · Nov 4, 2010

access cluster diagnostic mode 99-04 MY

01mustgt said:
my theft light stays on constantly while i am turning over the engine.

You CKP sensor may be bad, but IMO you are wasting your time focusing there. The overwhelming evidence says that this is a PATS problem.

Please follow the steps exactly and do not cut any corners. Turn the key to the on position. Do not crank. What does the theft light do? If the theft light does NOT go out after 3 second "prove out", STOP. This is your problem. Until the theft light goes out after "prove out', the motor will NEVER start.

Did you install all of the cables to the BJB? There are several small connectors near the battery that are easy to over look after an engine replacement.

Double check fuses F2.21, F2.34, F2.5, F2.37.

There is a note in the TSB that states if the cluster will not "prove out", look for a PCM power problem. Double check fuse F1.14, F1.26, F2.2, F2.8, F2.34. Does the cluster display the mileage or is it all "-------"/"*****"?

F1=BJB=Battery Junction Box-located left side engine bay
F2=CJB=Central Junction Box-located driver's kick panel.

Did you attempt to reset PATS with the key FOB or by unlocking the Driver's door? Does the FOB work?

Do you have an ODB2 scanner/reader? If so, use it to "talk to" the PCM. This will confirm that the PCM is at least working at some level.

Check out the information in the following links
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/01-06-02.pdf

How to access cluster diagnostic mode:
Diagnostic Mode - Ford Mustang Forums

Very good link on how to access the cluster diagnosis. Also includes error codes.
Mustangworld HEC Instrument Cluster Diagnostics

hotcobra03 · Nov 4, 2010

no-start

no saying this is your problem...awhile back i trying to help a guy on this site with a pats problem...

his was a 99 and ford refused to work on it because of the age of the car...

iirc his was a no start issue with injectors...he did find his problem..here is a pic of pats mod with a short inside the part

01mustgt · Nov 6, 2010

i checked my ckp and my cam sensor, both are plugged in and both has resistance when ran on a multimeter. a locksmith did confirm that my key is now programmed to the car. my ckeck engine light does exactly this ( blinks until u try and crank the car. while cranking the theft light stays lit up till u stop cranking then goes back to blinking. i dont know where the pats module is to check it. if i can find it i will check for shorts.

wmburns · Nov 6, 2010

A blinking check engine light with the motor OFF is a HARD fault in the PCM. Do you have an ODB2 scanner? We need to know the pending DTC codes. We also need to confirm the PCM is actually alive.

DOUBLE check all fuses.

Pull the PCM and clean the main PCM connector (be sure to disconnect battery negative). Use electric contact cleaner and re-grease with a light coat of silcone di-electric grease (same kind used on spark plugs). Not a bad idea to perform a visual inspection of the PCM PC board. Look for visual evidence of overheating/burning.

What were the resuts of the tests for power on the engine VPWR (TPS, injectors, COPs, IAC)?

What does the odometer do?

The CKP sensor needs to be tested for a small AC voltage.

01mustgt · Nov 8, 2010

the ckp and cam sensors havce been tested and are in good working order. my theft light rapidly blunks for a couple minutes. the blinking sequence of my theft light after the key has been on for a couple seconds is (1 blink, pause, 6 blink, long pause, repeat.) when the key is turned on the fan turns on the fuel pump can be heard and the car will crank just not start.

i dont have the odb, and the injectors do not have a 12 volt power. yall have helped out a really great deal but yall have shown me that i do have a pats prob... now i am going to make a new thread about a pats.... thanks a lot

rebuilt car that wont start need help!!!

01mustgt

New Member

wmburns

99gt2fast4u

New Member

trinity_gt

wmburns

01mustgt

New Member

hotcobra03

Active Member

wmburns

hotcobra03

Active Member

01mustgt

New Member

wmburns

01mustgt

New Member

Similar threads

rebuilt car that wont start need help!!!

New Member

New Member

New Member

Active Member

Active Member

New Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency