pompimike said:i've got a 99 gt want to do a rebuilt kit on it. which one should i go with? the cars got 100,000 miles
the engineRED2001GT said:What do you want to rebuild? Engine, transmission, ect.?
both NA/supercharger, not able to make up mind. help me outDropTopPony said:what are your plans? we need more info...stock rebuild/supercharger/nitrous/high compression NA....help us help you.
how much power did u get NA?01Steeda said:well u need to decide before the build. and stick to it lol. I went N/A but then found a deal on a SC I couldnt turn down.Sooo now i have an engine that isnt very boost friendly, I can run boost just not as much as i would like.
im probably gonna do it my self. I think i might go with sc. what do u think? what set up should i go with that?Gearbanger 101 said:Gonna do it yourself, or are you going to pay to have it done for you? If doing it yourself, I went with the www.modularperformance.com kit. Great quality parts at a great price. If you're going to have it done for you, I'd probably just pony up the bucks and have one of the more reputable shops (MPH, VTEngines, CHP, D.S.S, etc) build you a complete short block.
because its at 100k and what ever mods i do i want the full potential..and of course for more powerBurningRubber said:Does it actually need to be rebuilt, or are you doing so because its at 100k or you just want it to handle more power?
Well, if it's a do it yourself deal, I'd go with the Stage 1 kit shown here. If your stock crank is still in good condition, it's suitable to use about 600hp+ with a 2V engine and most street level blower kits won't be pushed anywhere near that hard anyway.pompimike said:im probably gonna do it my self. I think i might go with sc. what do u think? what set up should i go with that?
Gearbanger 101 said:Well, if it's a do it yourself deal, I'd go with the Stage 1 kit shown here. If your stock crank is still in good condition, it's suitable to use about 600hp+ with a 2V engine and most street level blower kits won't be pushed anywhere near that hard anyway.
Just don't forget you're going to have to have the crank balanced afterward to the rods and pistons (about $150) unless you go with the pre-balanced crank option with the kit (another $550 on top of the kit price). I made the mistake of not doing this and now I find myself tearing everything apart again after my install to have it donw.
Gearbanger 101 said:Turns out, there was a miscommunication between Modular Performance and myself. I originally bought the kit almost 2-years-ago when the though of the do-it-yourself rebuilds was still a fairly new concept and there wasn't a lot of information floating around out there about them.
I'd basically got some bad information in the beginning (another source) that told me that only stroker motors need to have the crank balanced and on a standard rebuild, as long as the rods and pistons were balanced to one and other, then it would be fine.
So, when I bought the kit from John at Modular Performance, the first question I asked him was….were the rods and pistons were balanced to one and other?....which he confirmed they were. Somewhere throughout the conversation between us I was left with the impression that this was all of the balancing that needed to be done, since neither one of us had mentioned the need to do the crank shaft. He probably could have explained it to me a little better and I probably should have know to ask, but that’s neither here nor there now. I later found out (during that thread we were involved in) that the crank shaft in fact did need to be balanced and this is where I was.
So, here I sat with my engine together, bolted into the car, and the blower bolted aloft and all buttoned down, about 4hrs away from starting the thing for the first time when I found out. So, I’m on a week off from work now and I guess I’ll be spending it tearing it all apart again. Not only that, but there wasn’t a machine shop locally that could balance my crank and I’ve got to send it 4hrs to Toronto to have it done.
Ahhhh, well. Live and learn and consider the source of the information you gathered on the internet.
Well, I don't imagine the rotating assembly is any lighter. My diamond pistons and Manley rods are quite a bit beefier than the stock units. A couple extra horsepower is great, but my main concern with doing it, is the fact that I now won't have to worry about wiping out my bottom end bearings after about 20,000km.jstreet0204 said:Ahh, I was under the impression you had been driving it for quite a while unbalanced, so I figured it must not have been too far out. I know the factory balance is not all that great, but if you go with significantly lighter pistons and rods, it can cause some problems. At least there is some hp to gained in the balancing process!
i'm glad i read this...i read your previous statement about the rods/pistons only needing to be balanced and thought i wouldn't need to have mine balanced with the crank...i guess i will be sending them out, might as well have them build it tooGearbanger 101 said:Well, I don't imagine the rotating assembly is any lighter. My diamond pistons and Manley rods are quite a bit beefier than the stock units. A couple extra horsepower is great, but my main concern with doing it, is the fact that I now won't have to worry about wiping out my bottom end bearings after about 20,000km.
pompimike said:how much power did u get NA?
Yeah, since finding out I was initially instructed on the wrong way of doing it, I was going to go back and change all of my previous posts that stated only the rods and piston needed to be balanced....but then I remembered that almost nobody listens to me anyway and the ripple effect would have been minimal.DropTopPony said:i'm glad i read this...i read your previous statement about the rods/pistons only needing to be balanced and thought i wouldn't need to have mine balanced with the crank.
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