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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Recommendations for jumpy suspension?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ddtforu
  • Start date Start date May 13, 2008
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Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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LA, CA
May 19, 2008
#21
  • May 19, 2008
  • #21
Call John up at OpenTracker and talk to him. He will get you setup right for sure.
 

S-Car-Go

Member
Mar 25, 2003
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San Jose, CA
May 19, 2008
#22
  • May 19, 2008
  • #22
I would NOT trust Mustang Ranch...

There are a few other local Mustang shops and I know a tire shop in Campbell that does good work. The guys there are familiar with old mustangs.
 
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bryanvw61

New Member
May 15, 2008
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CT
May 19, 2008
#23
  • May 19, 2008
  • #23
i just skimmed the post, but maybe the lowered suspension blew out your shocks, and once they can't damper anymore it'll be bouncy as heck
 

65FBE2

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Mar 8, 2007
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Minnasnowta
May 19, 2008
#24
  • May 19, 2008
  • #24
One thing you said early on in this thread " it pulls hard to the right when you are braking" That would indicate worn out upper ball joints. Also as MDJAY said ck the shim packs on the upper control arm. these are used to set the camber and would cause the noises and the pulling and the bad road follow that you are experiencing. As much positive camber as they can put in will help. stock spec called for 1/2-1 1/2 deg but 3 is better. Strut setups call for as much as 4 1/2 plus on a classic Mustang (from RRS)
 
D

ddtforu

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Dec 9, 2003
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Santa Clara, ca
May 20, 2008
#25
  • May 20, 2008
  • #25
let me know the name of the shop s-car, I havent been back to mustang ranch since about 5 years ago I went in looking for a reg 4 core radiator and they started trying to sell me some $700 aluminum yada yada yada....never went back after that.

Shim packs all looked tight still, but def worn spring perch bushings. Still just trying to decide on the final parts list to order from opentracker so I know how much to save. I only want to do this once and then enjoy it, I don't want to keep having messing with stuff. BTW, it pulls to the left under hard braking, but thanks for the tip, the neg wedge kit seems to put more strain on the ball joint rather than relieve it, you can see in the pics it looks like it puts a harder angle on it, it destroyed the rubber boot within a few thousand miles.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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LA, CA
May 21, 2008
#26
  • May 21, 2008
  • #26
Is it possible to install the negative wedge kits wrong ? As in changinge the ball joint angle making it worse instead of better ?
 
D

ddtforu

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Dec 9, 2003
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Santa Clara, ca
May 21, 2008
#27
  • May 21, 2008
  • #27
No, they're curved to match the UCA....that thought crossed my head too so I double checked them to make sure. Any easy/good way to check ball joints to see if they're good?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
May 21, 2008
#28
  • May 21, 2008
  • #28
I've heard it said that if you grab the brakes at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and try to push them back and forth that they shouldn't move much. Supposedly doing the same thing at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock checks the tie rods.
 

S-Car-Go

Member
Mar 25, 2003
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San Jose, CA
May 21, 2008
#29
  • May 21, 2008
  • #29
PM sent
 
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