Recommended Gauges

I run autometer phantom electric water temp and oil pressure.

not a fan of hot water and oil lines in the cab. Electric gauges are much better than they used to be. I havent had any issues with mine.

i have autometer ultra lite series..all mechanical, except volts

All Autometer Phantom, all mechanical, no runs, no drips no errors! Also used "AN" fittings and -3 steel braided hoses as well. PITA to install that way, but worth it in the end.

I went with Autometer Cobalt series, electric. Water temp and volts...I will change out the volts to oil pressure once I finish off this engine.

I love cobalts!

i have autometer electric gauges and there very accurate ..and very easy to install

importance wise i would say water and oil are a must. wide bands are nice to have. if you want to know everything you can go crazy with oil temperature, fuel pressure, trans temperature, volts, big tachometer, shift light

stykthyn said:

I run autometer phantom electric water temp and oil pressure.

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this except mine are ultra lite's
most useful gauges to have for N/A imo since the factory oil press and water temp gauges on the cluster are merely decorations

Those cobalts are nice as hell looking

ultra lites FTW

that looks like a 4 eye panel.

Some tips for mechanical gauges:
Mechanical water temp gauges have a copper tube the links the gauge to the sender. You cannot cut ,kink, splice or damage the copper tube if you want the gauge to work connectly. It contains alochol or some mixture of fluid that increases the pressure as the temperature increases.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender:

Revised 24 July 2011 to add better temp sender location description and the necessity to loop the fluid flow through the heater circuit.

How it works:
If you want any kind of operation similar to stock, the ECT/heater feed line is the best place for a temp sender or fan thermo sensor. After all, the computer uses the ECT to pick up data on how warm the engine is. Putting the temp sender in the same line as the ECT is a simple way to get the best possible accuracy at minimum cost and complication.

Some things to keep in mind:
Just be sure that you haven’t blocked the coolant return because of a leaky heater core. For this to work correctly, the coolant needs to flow from the ECT sensor tubing back to the water pump. That means a leaky heater circuit gets looped rather than just plugged up. Join the rubber hoses together with a hose splice from Home Depot rather than plug them up.

Where to put it:
Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold that has the ECT sensor in it. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings since the coolant is always flowing through the heater circuit in a stock car.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.



Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

stickboy101 said:

Mike, Where does that panel get mounted?

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its a 4-eye and not my car. just a pic.