Recurring Code 91 R/h O2 Sensor/exhaust Leak

Wife's Baby

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Sep 26, 2017
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Need advice fixing my wife's 90 GT, 240K all original miles, except rebuilt tranny 7 months ago, Convertible!

She is about to kill me!!!

The check engine light keeps coming on at approximately same time during road driving warm-up. It always pulls code 91 "R/H O2 sensor/exhaust leak".

Bought new sensor and when I went to replace it I found the old one loose in the manifold. Replaced it anyway. No exhaust leaks found.

Have :poo: hot sharp tuner friend but he is really a Bow Tie guy and besides a Pantera this is the ONLY Ford he will work on because like I said it's my wife's baby and she is good at explaining the problems. Anyway he doesn't have a way to read anything other than the original codes.

Any advice on where we should look next or what to look for?

Thank you in advance,

John
 
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Now to the problem at hand.
You don't need to bother your friend for checking codes, you can do this your self, go to the 5.0 tech/how to threads and there is a thread there that shows you step by step procedures on checking codes, also remember to clear the codes after repairs/sensor replacement.
Look for vacuum leaks, old vacumm lines, specially the plastic ones get brittle,
 
As suggested...

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
 
An easy cheap way to dump codes is to purchase a Innova 3145 code reader.

Amazon product ASIN B000EW0KHWView: https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW


With single O2 codes, the easy way to diagnose if it's a sensor or something else is to simple swap the two sensors. If your code 91 turns into a code 41, than the issue is the sensor itself. If the code 91 stays, then there's something else going on.

Code 91 refers to the system running lean on that bank of 4 cylinders. An exhaust leak is one possible cause, but it could also be a dead cylinder, or bad fuel injector or something else causing one of the cylinders (or all) to be slightly lean.

A good way to start here is to perform what is called the cylinder balance test, and is part of the code reading process. If there's a dead cylinder, it will identify it.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/cylinder-balance-test.695039/#post-6820496

Just a little personal story. A while back, I found my car was giving me a code 41 or 91 (forget which). Car ran great otherwise, but no idea what was wrong. Performed cylinder balance test and discovered I had an issue in one cylinder. Come to find out, the fuel injector had not been working in quite some time. Drove around for a year on 7 cylinders...car felt strong. Just wanted to point out that even though the code points to o2 sensor, it could be the result of an upstream issue instead
 
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Where are you located at?

He has cars shipped from all over the country and some ppeople even make weekends of it to come and get their cars tuned and dyno'd. If he knows what's coming in he does his homework. Most all the old cars have late model power plants and drive trains so it's all computerized but he still does old school stuff. He is an authorized dealer on certain turbos, super chargers and tranny's. He builds stock and custom harnesses, motors, burns chips, programs computers and so much more. In a couple of those pics you see his matching shop beside his house. He has room for 5 cars in the house garage and 3 in the shop. His dyno is over in a leased building but he just bought a piece of property and will be moving the dyno to a new 4k sq/ft shop in about 4 - 6 months. He will still wrench on everything in the back shop but will now be able to do tunes when ever he feels like it. There are several car clubs in town that want to do a Dyno Day, one of which will be the mustang club (I am not a member) I can keep you posted if you want.
 
Now to the problem at hand.
You don't need to bother your friend for checking codes, you can do this your self, go to the 5.0 tech/how to threads and there is a thread there that shows you step by step procedures on checking codes, also remember to clear the codes after repairs/sensor replacement.
Look for vacuum leaks, old vacumm lines, specially the plastic ones get brittle,

Thank you for the information. He has a code reader and has cleared them twice after the O2 Sensor change. We will look at Threads and report back what we find. Thank you again. John
 
As suggested...

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

Thank you for the information. He has a code reader and has cleared them twice after the O2 Sensor change. We will look at Threads and report back what we find. Thank you again. John
 
Thank you for the information. He has a code reader and has cleared them twice after the O2 Sensor change. We will look at Threads and report back what we find. Thank you again. John
Why pay or owe a favor for something you can do yourself and learn something in the process?
 
Code 41 or 91. Or 43 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

Revised 20-July-2017 to add note that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor.

Code 41 is the passenger side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 91 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 172 is the passenger side sensor as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 176 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 43 is not side specific according to the Probst Ford Fuel injection book.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear.

Disconnect the O2 sensor from the harness and use the body side O2 sensor harness as the starting point for testing. Do not measure the resistance of the O2 sensor , you may damage it. Resistance measurements for the O2 sensor harness are made with one meter lead on the O2 sensor harness and the other meter lead on the computer wire or pin for the O2 sensor.

Computer wiring harness connector, computer side.
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Backside view of the computer wiring connector:
a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.71316.gif


87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (L\RH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (LH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a Gray/Lt blue wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a Red/Black wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs; note that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor.
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer. Using the Low Ohms range (usually 200 Ohms) you should see less than 1.5 Ohms.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Dark blue/Lt green wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Dark blue/Lt green wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Dark Green/Pink wire on the computer pin 29

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 29

94-95 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 29 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 27 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 29
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 27

There is a connector between the body harness and the O2 sensor harness. Make sure the connectors are mated together, the contacts and wiring are not damaged and the contacts are clean and not coated with oil.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Check the fuel pressure – the fuel pressure is 37-41 PSI with the vacuum disconnected and the engine idling. Fuel pressure out of range can cause the 41 & 91 codes together. It will not cause a single code, only both codes together.

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness. The exception is that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor.

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

Code 41 can also be due to carbon plugging the driver’s side Thermactor air crossover tube on the back of the engine. The tube fills up with carbon and does not pass air to the driver’s side head ports. This puts an excess amount of air in the passenger side exhaust and can set the code 41. Remove the tube and clean it out so that both sides get good airflow: this may be more difficult than it sounds. You need something like a mini rotor-rooter to do the job because of the curves in the tube. Something like the outer spiral jacket of a flexible push-pull cable may be the thing that does the trick.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.