Remote start on 2000 GT issues after instal, anti theft kicked in car died

shufixer said:

They said it's the fuel pump and I agreed to have it looked at so they had it towed to the local Ford dealer. They also said it's the fuel pump, I did some calling around and I believe they screwed up my anti theft system by either disabling it or not using the proper coding when they did the install. I had 1 key and I told them that so to my understanding some remote start systems require 2 keys or need the one key to be re coded as well as the car. Then the remote start be coded to the new code. So with the anti theft system being reset wrong or just shut off it makes it look like the fuel pump it not working and they are telling me it will cost a grand to fix it. I did call back to the Ford dealer and explaned to them my thoery and they are going to check the coding and the anti theft system. I am wondering if anyone else has ever had an issue like this before..Thanks for responding

Click to expand...

So is it your theory that the fuel pump isn't working because of a Ford Factory PATS issue?

Note. For the 1999-2004 model year the Ford Factory PATS system does NOT disable the fuel pump. When tripped PATS works by with holding fuel injector pulse. In a working factory car the fuel pump should prime at each key cycle off/on.

The other interesting thing about the Ford factory PATS system is that it will never shut the motor off once the motor has started. So a start followed by stall is not the fault of PATS. Note, an after market alarm system may indeed work by shutting off the motor.

Your question about the number of keys is correct. IF the keys are erased, then it would be necessary to have two key in order to re-program. Here's some more information.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/

shufixer said:

I am still confused as to why the Anti Theft system would kick in as I pulled out of the lot..The light was blinking and the car spit and sputtered then died. The Theft light blinked rapidly and the car just died. They towed it back and supposedly disabled the anti theft on the car and did a few other things and then agreed to take it up to the Ford dealer. I highly doubt this was a coincidence that the fuel pump would just give out and the anti theft light would blink after they where working on the car.

Click to expand...

I attempted to explain the operation of the Ford FACTORY PATS system to you. I also attempted to explain that an after market alarm system "could" take action different than factory default.

There are multiple reasons to have a flashing theft light. For example a power "issue" to the cluster or PCM "could" appear to be PATS related but not. A power issue is also more likely to cause the symptoms reported. The key difference is that reprogramming PATS won't fix the reported symptoms. Further a power issue could also explain why the shop is unable to correctly re-program PATS.

Consider that a remote start system MUST have the ability to control of basically the ignition key on/off systems. Given the recent "modifications" done to your car it seems that a power problem caused by the remote start is more likely.

But why guess? Test. A pure PATS issue will:

• Will set a PCM DTC code specific to PATS. Scan with an ODB2 reader. Note, it's a "hint" if the ODB2 scanner won't talk to the PCM.
• The PATS system will not "prove out" at initial key on. See the crank with no start check list.
• There will be key on power at fuse F2.34, F2,2 and F2.8.
• There will be key on power at the trunk mounted IFS switch.
• the other "systems" in the car will operate normally including the fuel pump prime.

1996+ Crank with no start check list
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html

1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

The "gold standard" test for fuel pump diagnosis is to confirm power and grounds at the PCM and fuel pump. For the 1999-2004 model year GT one of the easiest places to do this is at the trunk mounted IFS switch. If there's confirmed key on power at the trunk IFS switch AND no fuel pump prime, THEN:

• The fuel pump is bad
• There's a wiring problem to the fuel pump including bad ground
• the FPDM is bad
• The PCM is bad (or not being powered).

IF there's no power at the trunk mounted IFS switch, the problem is upstream towards the CCRM, ignition switch, fuse. More trouble shooting is necessary.

shufixer said:

Had a remote start installed in my 2000 Gt automatic. Pulled out of the shop got a block away and the anti theft system kicked in and it stalled the car. They towed it back tried to fix it by resetting or turning off the anti theft system. They said it's the fuel pump and I agreed to have it looked at so they had it towed to the local Ford dealer. They also said it's the fuel pump, I did some calling around and I believe they screwed up my anti theft system by either disabling it or not using the proper coding when they did the install. I had 1 key and I told them that so to my understanding some remote start systems require 2 keys or need the one key to be re coded as well as the car. Then the remote start be coded to the new code. So with the anti theft system being reset wrong or just shut off it makes it look like the fuel pump it not working and they are telling me it will cost a grand to fix it. I did call back to the Ford dealer and explaned to them my thoery and they are going to check the coding and the anti theft system. I am wondering if anyone else has ever had an issue like this before..Thanks for responding

Click to expand...

I have had the exact same experience man, what I did was replace the fuel pump myself and then I went to ford and bought TWO brand new keys for a little less then 100 bucks and I reset the key codes and put these new ones onto the cars ignition coder, this then allowed me to fire it up and then put the remote start, hoe this helps