Removal of hard heater lines by the intake:

90mustangGT · Jul 25, 2011

Took out my HVAC and I want to remove the hard lines that run between the upper and lower intake. There is the ECT sensor there so I will probably need to run an adapter to put it where the line come out of the intake. The other end goes to the waterpump and I am guessing I could just block that off? Am I correct? Or does it need to run into the intake. I know about the EGR coolant lines, I'm not worried about that.

mob · Jul 25, 2011

I just put a cap on the waterpump with a clamp and used a reducer bushing to put the ect sensor in the hole. I havent had any problems yet. They also make a kit that has basically a reducer bushing but has a barbed fitting coming out of it so you can attach a hose to it but I dont think its necessary and ridiculously overpriced. You could make it yourself for a lot cheaper if you buy the parts separate but I think the sizes are a little hard to find.

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=464&cat_id=17

90mustangGT · Jul 25, 2011

Thanks Mob. Wow, that kit's price tag is quite a joke. I can go to napa and piece that all togeather for a few bucks. I think that's what I'll do.

reldla1996 · Jul 29, 2011

I bought an assortment of brass fittings from Home Depot for $25 to eliminate mine, and keep the water heater and sensor connected. They are 1/2" and 3/8" MIP/FIP fittings.

wetbasement · Aug 1, 2011

Would you still be able to connect to the heater core?

mob · Aug 1, 2011

No you wouldnt. If you want to keep the heater core why would you get rid of the hard lines?

Boydster · Aug 2, 2011

Just did this yesterday as when I filled mine before starting for the 1st time, coolant was pouring out of the heater core.

I did the same as MOB... 1/2 MNPT to 3/8 FNPT for the sensor and cap the inlet on the water pump.

Don't forget to plug the hole for the fitting on the back of the intake for the EGR coolant line... 3/8 MNPT

All available at Home Depot, about $5 total.

Joey7508 · Aug 2, 2011

I just got that kit from breeze. I thought it was over priced till I drove all over town looking for the right size pieces. It is a 1/2" street tee, reducer, barb, hose and two clamps. Seems easy enough, but the st tee is hard to find at least in my area. I looked online for the fitting and in machined brass it was $16 bucks on its own. All the same Breeze got it here fast. The hose clamps are nice and have Breeze engraved on them. Needless to say I bought the expensive kit and wasted $20 in gas looking for the fittings when I was being cheap.

Maryland Stang · Aug 3, 2011

mob said:
No you wouldnt. If you want to keep the heater core why would you get rid of the hard lines?

Why couldn't you? You just need to run 2 hoses like they did back in "the day". One reason I can see to get rid of the hard lines is to help clean up that side of the engine a bit. It's a mess on that side compared to the other side of the engine.

90mustangGT · Aug 4, 2011

Well I'm elbow deep in this. As for the lines, I got them out without taking the upper intake off or even disconnecting the fuel lines. Just unplugged a few injectors so I wouldn't risk breaking the connectors off, then removed the lines, and wrestled it out. Took some "fenageling" but I won.

Went to Home Depot and got a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, a 3/8ths plug to plug the barb in the back where the EGR coolant lines go, and a 3/8ths hose plug. I could have gotten a 3 way connector and a male to female adapter, and a 3/8ths hose barb. Ran the three way 1) to the intake 2) to the barb 3) to the hose. I don't know if I like that because then it is moving water from the pump to the ECT and that could alter readings, so I just decided to cap it off. Wasn't much money at all. I think $7 total.

ID89GT · Aug 5, 2011

You want to clean up that side yet want to keep the heater core? That don't make sense. I would think the metal pipes would look a lot cleaner rather than a couple heater hoses running all the way back to the firewall

Green 94 5.0 · Aug 5, 2011

Maryland Stang said:
Why couldn't you? You just need to run 2 hoses like they did back in "the day". One reason I can see to get rid of the hard lines is to help clean up that side of the engine a bit. It's a mess on that side compared to the other side of the engine.

I may be missing something here, so completely forgive me if I am.

[OPINION]How on earth are two soft lines running from the front to the back of the engine compartment down the same route going to look cleaner than the hard lines that are already there? It just sounds like wasted time and effort to me.[/OPINION]

Maryland Stang · Aug 5, 2011

Green 94 5.0 said:
I may be missing something here, so completely forgive me if I am.

[OPINION]How on earth are two soft lines running from the front to the back of the engine compartment down the same route going to look cleaner than the hard lines that are already there? It just sounds like wasted time and effort to me.[/OPINION]

Who said you have to run them where the stock lines are? They're rubber, you could run them straight to the inner fender and come out the back at the heater core if you wanted to.

And while you may not like the thought of that maybe some people do? Different strokes for different folks, you know?

90mustangGT · Aug 6, 2011

Maryland Stang said:
Who said you have to run them where the stock lines are? They're rubber, you could run them straight to the inner fender and come out the back at the heater core if you wanted to.

And while you may not like the thought of that maybe some people do? Different strokes for different folks, you know?

Wow, that certainly sounds like a coolant leak/burst waiting to happen but it's a unique idea that I've never seen before.

strattoc · Aug 14, 2011

I think I'm missing the point here also.... if its already there and works why replace it?

Removal of hard heater lines by the intake:

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