My powerwindows fried on me so I took them out. I have real manual windows, not crank but without the motors in there you can pull the window up and down really easily, I don't mind it much at all.
As far as weight is conerned maby 10lbs total, unless you remove the track assembly and all, then you will either have fixed or no windows.
full manual doors are very rare from 87-93. you can get older manual doors (80-86) but the molding and door panel will look different. you will probably have a hard time finding manual panels. the route i'm going to take is remove door lock actuators= manual door locks. i'm keeping power windows
I believe the whole inside of the door is different with a full manual setup, so probably best bet is to find the whole door and swap stuff over. I bet you don't have to drill any holes either...just a matter of swapping. The weight savings without the motors and extra stuff I would bet is not huge, but 10 pounds per side is certainly something. My last car had manual windows, power locks -- this one is already full manual.
To go to manual doors, you need the manual window regulator that the window crank connects to, and all manual door panels and armrests since the armrests are shorter on manual doors. The weight savings would be basically the two window motors and the switches & wiring, 10 lbs at most. And yes, all the holes are there to mount it. I went the other way, from full manual to full power, and still have my old manual door panels (red), but not the armrests.