removing an oil pan

Mongo316

New Member
Apr 28, 2004
43
0
0
Hamilton ontario
Hey guys! I hava a 67 coupe with a 351 w and 3 speed manual. I have a leak from my oil pan and need to replace it. Two things I need a new pan any idea's where the deals are at (I am from Ontario canada) and second do I need to pull the motor to remove the pan? Any Idea's on what is the easy way of removing the pan?

Thanks to all for your help
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I just finished doing this not long ago! For an oil pan, you can go to just about any auto parts store or an aftermarket racing supplier such as summitt or Jegs. Heck, you can even call mustangs unlimited, or national parts depot. Its pretty easy. As for removing the oil pan, unbolt the the cross member support bar, then take the big nut off your Idler arm thats attached to the bracket that bolts to the frame and swing it out off the way. Are you sure you dont have a rear main leaking? Even if you dont, replace it anyway. Unbolt your rear main cap, loosen all the rest of the caps, but dont remove them, only the rear, and loosen all of you belts on the pulleys and it should come out pretty easily. while youre at that point, it would be a good Idea to buy a new high volume oil pump and some new main bearings while your at it. I did just that and everything is running great!!


Good luck !
Hope this helps!
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!!!!!! :flag:

Larry Of Mason Ohio
 
Unless I missed something in the original post there's no reason to loosen or remove any of the mains, in fact that could be a MAJOR mistake.

Remove the crossmember by taking out the two large bolts under the frame rails. Then move the steering out of the way as described. Once that is out of the way dropping the pan is very easy, just unbolt all of the bolts and it will fall off. When you replace it use one of the newer one-piece gaskets. They are wonderful!
 
I agree with Edbert- drop the cross member, move the steering linkage (might want to re-grease everything while you're under there), pan should come right out. One piece gaskets are awesome! Not too expensive either- go to a parts house and ask for one for a later model 5.0, faster to pull up on computer.

If you do decide to go with a HV pump while you are at it... I would reccommend a larger pan. I found that the hv pump will suck the pan clean faster than the oil drains back down after running it for a while and sitting at idle. I went with Canton 7qt and pick up, about 270$ from streetortrack.com. If you want a new stock type, you can get them just about anywhere- can run about 50$ if I'm not mistaken...

The Swede
 
<i>If you do decide to go with a HV pump while you are at it... I would reccommend a larger pan. I found that the hv pump will suck the pan clean faster than the oil drains back down after running it for a while and sitting at idle.</i>

Really? Is this true with a Melling Hi-Volume?
 
Swede958 said:
I agree with Edbert- drop the cross member, move the steering linkage (might want to re-grease everything while you're under there), pan should come right out. One piece gaskets are awesome! Not too expensive either- go to a parts house and ask for one for a later model 5.0, faster to pull up on computer.



The Swede
The 5.0 pan gasket doesn't fit a 351W pan.The rear seal is different on a 351W because of the larger main bearing diameter and resulting larger main cap. Order a one piece gasket for a 351W. You would also do well to get the pan rail stiffeners too, these will improve the seal with the one piece gasket.
 
Oops, my bad D.Hearne, forgot he was talking about a 351... yes, do what d.hearne said- one piece for 351


Max power- the pump I have is the HV melling. It isn't as bad as I may have let it sound. When first starting pressure is high and is healthy while driving. It is just when I slow to an idle after the oil has warmed up does it like to start sucking the oil a little faster than it can drain back. Extra 2 quarts in the pan I ordered should fix this.

The Swede
 
Wont hurt it!

No, you can use your stock pan. Thats what Ive done, and its been 2 months now and its great. I replaced my mains too. They really werent bad, but I would lose oil pressure after it was warmed up from driving, when I come to a stop, id lose oil pressure. i need to replace my rear main, so this past winter i changed it out, and while i was at it, I put in a new hv oil pump along with new mains, and i never run out of pressure. I would like to know how these guys can say they run out of oil in the pan before it can all get drained back. My motor has never had a complete rebuild with original cam and heads with the valves, Its running great!

Go for it, hope this helps.
Larry of Mason Ohio :flag: