Removing camshaft

[raleighstang65]

I removed the lifters, timing chain and camshaft retainer. I can't get the old camshaft out now. It doesn't even budge. I can turn it. The engine ran fine when I took it apart to install a new cam. Is there something else that needs to be removed for the cam to come out or is there something possibly wrong? I didn't want to pry it out and scratch a bearing. The engine is still in the car.

 

[Stanger007]

Sounds like you got everything that holds it in.

I have good luck screwing one of the waterpump or timing cover bolts into the cam and using it as a handle to carefully work it over the cam bearings.

Wes

 

[ron67fb]

What are you using to take it out with? There are a number of bearings all with ridges due to wear and old oil so it will not slide out easily. Use a long bolt like Wes said, or bolt on the cam gear and use that as a handle to twist and pull on the cam. It'll "pop" out once it clears the ridges and you might hear it bang up against the bearings but don't worry too much about it.

 

[raleighstang65]

I was using the short bolt that went through the cam gear/timing chain gear. So it's normal to feel some resistance at first? And it's alright to turn it while I'm pulling it out? First cam swap, I feel confident that I can do it, just don't want to mess anything up in the process.

 

[geostang351]

Aren't the lifters pushing town on the lobes of the camshaft from the valve spring. Wouldn't this extra tension be preventing you from removing the cam? How 'bout removing the valve covers and lossening the rockers to relieve some of the stress that's on the cam lobes.

 

[FLStang]

Aren't the lifters pushing town on the lobes of the camshaft from the valve spring. Wouldn't this extra tension be preventing you from removing the cam? How 'bout removing the valve covers and lossening the rockers to relieve some of the stress that's on the cam lobes.

he said he removed the lifters....

 

[Stanger007]

Try one of the longer bolts from the water pump to give you some leverage.

If you've got the distributor, lifters and thrust plate off then that is all that will hold that bad boy in. You can give it a gentle tug and it will come forward.

I remember doing my first cam swap - it was a lotta fun!

Wes

 

[geostang351]

he said he removed the lifters....

RIGHT!! How could I have missed the first four words in this thread???

 

[raleighstang65]

Oh yea! If by alotta fun you mean wondering what the heck I got myself into, then yea its a blast! I put a longer bolt on to use as a handle and gave a hard tug and its not moving at all. Just doesn't make sense to me cause I can turn it, but it won't move forward.

 

[fasttback]

As mentioned before, use a long bolt to help pull and leverage the thing. Word of caution - when the cam breaks loose try to avoid the cam lobes from hitting the bearings. The last "quick" cam change I did I ended up pulling the motor for some new cam bearings.

Maybe a small plate can be mounted in place of the retainer to limit the cam from moving too far during the ridge breaking process?

 

[yeloxr7]

RIGHT!! How could I have missed the first four words in this thread???

Ah, but he didn't say anything about removing the distributor.......

 

[geostang351]

Ah, but he didn't say anything about removing the distributor.......

That's what I meant

 

[raleighstang65]

Distributor is out... cam is still in!

 

[BlwnGazkit]

And your certain you removed the thrust plate??? I'm stumped!

The cam must've really worn itself into those bearings. And if thats the case, they should probably be replaced to...

 

[Stanger007]

Yank on that shaft.

Wes

 

[raleighstang65]

The thrust plate is just the small plate in front of the camshaft right? Held on with two screws? The lifters were not easy to get out, had to put the vise grips on all but maybe two.

 

[fasttback]

The thrust plate is just the small plate in front of the camshaft right? Held on with two screws? The lifters were not easy to get out, had to put the vise grips on all but maybe two.

Yep, just two bolts. Sounds like the lifters had a lot of build up on them...not uncommon.

 

[raleighstang65]

Yeah, there was a decent amount of varnish on them. If the cam has worn itself into the bearings, would the engine sound and run strong? It ran great when I took it apart. And if I can't get the cam out and just want to put it back together for now, can I use the new hyrd. lifters that came with the Performer-Plus cam instead of trying to put the old lifters back in?

 

[fasttback]

Yeah, there was a decent amount of varnish on them. If the cam has worn itself into the bearings, would the engine sound and run strong? It ran great when I took it apart. And if I can't get the cam out and just want to put it back together for now, can I use the new hyrd. lifters that came with the Performer-Plus cam instead of trying to put the old lifters back in?

Mine ran strong before I destroyed two cam bearings pulling out the cam. I got my cam out by pulling back and forth on the cam until the bearings finally gave way. Once it broke the bearing ridge, it flew out with the cam lobes stopping on the bearings (that why I suggested adding some sort of stopper that will limit the forward movement). If you really want that cam out and pulling won't work, you can try tapping it out from the rear (this involves dropping the transmission and removing the rear cam plug).

About the lifters - were your olds ones giving you trouble or did you mix them up already? If no on both, why not just run them again if it was running strong? If you decide to run the new lifters on your old cam, you should not reuse them on your Performer-Plus cam when you install it.

 

[Rusty67]

Aren't there holes in the valley of the block that you can see the cam through ? Put a flat head in there and "persuade" the came to move forward.

Maybe post a pic or two to make sure you didn't miss something.