Removing distributor (can't get it out)

t_chelle16

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Knob Noster, Mo.

Aug 22, 2006

#1

• Aug 22, 2006

• #1

I'm trying to replace my intake gaskets (oil leak out the front & vacuum leak on the side) and I cannot get the distributor out. I removed the cap & rotor and the little locking plate at the bottom. According to my shop manual, it should just pull right out but I can only pull it up about 1/4" and it stops. Am I missing something? Or do I just need to pull harder?

-Chelle

 

t_chelle16

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#2

• Aug 22, 2006

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Oh, and if it makes a difference (don't think it would), it has and Ignitor II electronic ignition kit.

-Chelle

 

C

chemeng

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Feb 21, 2004

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Louisville, KY

Aug 22, 2006

#3

• Aug 22, 2006

• #3

Hey,

Just need to pull harder, maybe jostle it up and down a few times until it comes out. Make sure you mark the rotor position on the distributor and the direction the distributor is pointing in when you take it out so you don't mess up your timing.
I replaced my intake gaskets without removing the distributor. A bit tricky but wanted to save any extra removal I didn't have to. Is your intake cast iron? If so get an extra set of hands on the other fender to help lift.
Hope this helps, MikeR

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Aug 22, 2006

#4

• Aug 22, 2006

• #4

You dont need to remove your dizzy to replace the intake.

 

t_chelle16

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Aug 22, 2006

#5

• Aug 22, 2006

• #5

I got it. I just wasn't getting a good enough grip to pull it hard enough. I ended up standing inside the engine bay on the frame rails and pulling up.

And yes, I know I don't really have to remove the distributor, but it makes it easier to get the intake back in.

Thanks anyway.

-Chelle

 

zookeeper

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Aug 25, 2001

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Rogue River, Oregon

Aug 22, 2006

#6

• Aug 22, 2006

• #6

You got that right. I always try to set the intake in place going straight down so I don't move the gaskets or smear the sealant on the ends (I never use the end gaskets) and that's not going to happen with distributer in place. BTW, to get the intake perfectly aligned at install time, you can use some short peices of all-thread cut to about 4". Thread one peice in each corner then lower the intake over them, going straight down, then remove them after you get a couple bolts hand tight. This way your gaskets don't squirm around at all. This trick doesn't work on some motors (small block Chevys) but works fine on 289/302 Fords.

 

1320stang

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Nov 13, 1998

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Edmond, Oklahoma

Aug 22, 2006

#7

• Aug 22, 2006

• #7

zoo, I like shouldered bolts with the heads cut off and rounded for this. That way it's not getting caught on the threads as you're putting it on. Works real well for putting a tranny in, never done the intake this way, but very good idea. If you do make up a set of shouldered bolts like this, use a zipper wheel or a hacksaw to cut a slot in the end for a flat bladed screwdriver as sometimes you can't take them back out by hand and grabbing them with pliers or vise grips buggers up the shank.

 

zookeeper

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Aug 22, 2006

#8

• Aug 22, 2006

• #8

I never thought about using that for a trans install. That may have come in handy a few years ago, when I was always blowing up motors in my '65 fastback. When the time came to get the top-loader back in, I always had to call my brother. I could get the trans up there, but couldn't get it in and lined up without knocking the throwout bearing everywhere. My brother was a brute and could lift it in with no problem. Of course, I guess I could've borrowed a tranny jack, but what fun would that be?

 

t_chelle16

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Aug 22, 2006

#9

• Aug 22, 2006

• #9

Ah, thanks for the tips on reinstalling the intake. I already got the intake on, but I'll have to remember that for the next time I do it.

Got another question, though. I noticed that in the lifter valley, there was the number 302 (along with some other numbers & letters). Does that mean it's actually a 302 and not a 289?

-Chelle

 

1320stang

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Edmond, Oklahoma

Aug 22, 2006

#10

• Aug 22, 2006

• #10

Well, it's a 302 block, it could still have a 289 reciprocating assembly in it, but that's doubtful. If you pull off the starter, there's a boss there that has the block part number and a date code, you can figure out the year of the block there.

 

t_chelle16

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#11

• Aug 22, 2006

• #11

I don't really feel like running out & pulling off the starter if I don't have to. Plus I'm not going to be keeping this engine anyway. I'll be rebuilding old Sadie's 289 (at least I think it's a 289 ) and dropping it in there. I just thought it was interesting, though.

Also, update on the intake gaskets. I did it this morning, waited a few hours then tried topping off the coolant and it was just pouring out of the driver's side of the intake. I think the gasket slipped when I installed the intake. Luckily I had another set of gaskets on hand so I re-did it all (using some threaded studs to serve as guides - thanks guys ), waited a few hours and dad & I went out there to test it out. No leaks and so far she's running a lot smoother and sounds a lot better (I had a bad vacuum leak and she was a pain in the @$$ to get into gear w/o dieing and also liked to threaten dieing at red lights).

Now I'm going to let it cool down a little, then go back out, top off the coolant and drive it around a little more (get out on the highway and see if it's still pinging) and hopefully she'll get me to work okay tomorrow (I hate working on a car when I only have one day off ).

-Chelle

 

C

chromedog

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Jan 13, 2006

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worlds center for speed

Aug 22, 2006

#12

• Aug 22, 2006

• #12

to anyone having a real b%*#@ of a time getting a distributor out,,, hose it down with penetrating fluid (i like pb blaster) choke the distributor with a short nylon strap, hook the other end of the strap to your handy dandy cherry picker, lift the vehicle just enough to take the weight off the suspension. it may take a while, but it will break loose.

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Aug 22, 2006

#13

• Aug 22, 2006

• #13

Retorque it after it cools chelle.

 

t_chelle16

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Aug 22, 2006

#14

• Aug 22, 2006

• #14

We retorqued it after the first test drive around the block, but I'll do it again in the morning before going to work.

The 2nd test drive went really well. I took it down to the highway and was going to get into it a little there, but I forgot there was road construction, so I drove around town a little then went through this little housing area about 2 blocks behind my house. There's actually no houses there, but the land is cleared for it and theres a nice, smooth, straight, brand new road. I pulled onto the street, stomped on the gas, looked down at the spedometer and said "Oh crap! I'm doing 50!" . . .

Anyway, it still idles a little rough in reverse, but we should be able to straighten that out with just tuing the carb; it didn't try to die though. And the pinging is pretty much gone. It's just barely there under very hard acceleration. Overall, it's idling a lot smoother and sounds a lot better and I don't get nervous at stop signs (before, I was having to throw it into neutral at red lights).

-Chelle