Removing IAC?
- Thread starter sage2k
- Start date
WhiteDevil
New Member
Removing it will save you a lot of headaches. Depending on how long it has been on the gasket may rip. If not then you might not have to get one. I would take it off.
juiced_94gt
Active Member
its easier to just remove the upper intake plenum, its only 6 bolts and it comes right off plus you can re-use your old gasket.
I did mine while it was on the car. IT WAS A MAJOR PITA. the fuel rail is in the way of any socket wrench, so that out of the way. I used a racheting screwdriver and about 1 ft of extensions and went from the side of the dist.
Becareful when putting it back on though, its not a straight shot and I crossthreaded mine and had to re-tap it.
Becareful when putting it back on though, its not a straight shot and I crossthreaded mine and had to re-tap it.
95WhiteVenom
Founding Member
I just took my tb off when doing mine. Mine hadn't been touched in ten years so getting the IAC was a major PITA.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
I have several 1/4" extensions, so I just got one to the perfect length and a ratchet. I also took off my TPS at the time and replaced the screws with hex head instead of phillips.
Scott
Scott
Stanger007
Founding Member
I used a 1/4" ratchet and some extensions as well when I replaced mine. Did you get a new IAC yet? I went all over town trying to find the correct one - only Ford and Pep Boys had it. Mine turned out not to be my problem so I've still got my "old" one sitting around if you want to swap it out.
Stanger007
Founding Member
Dang lotta innuendo's in that last post 
I think the 1/4 ratchet with an extension makes it relatively easy to remove and reinstall the IAC - it sure is a tight spot however.
One question - does anyone know if an IAC needs to be adjusted once installed or is it just a bolt on and plug in part?
I think the 1/4 ratchet with an extension makes it relatively easy to remove and reinstall the IAC - it sure is a tight spot however.
One question - does anyone know if an IAC needs to be adjusted once installed or is it just a bolt on and plug in part?
I got to the IAC with a deep well 1/4" ratchet.
Whatever you do, don't cross thread the bottom bolt, I did that and it snapped on me. I had to remove the throttle body, broke 3 drill bits trying to remove the bolt, gave up, and bought a new TB (I needed to upgrade anyway).
The IAC needs no adjustment, just screw it on and plug it in.
Whatever you do, don't cross thread the bottom bolt, I did that and it snapped on me. I had to remove the throttle body, broke 3 drill bits trying to remove the bolt, gave up, and bought a new TB (I needed to upgrade anyway).
The IAC needs no adjustment, just screw it on and plug it in.
Stanger007
Founding Member
sage2k said:
I've got a hot start problem when it's summertime - when I drop it in gear after a hot start the car will usually want to die unless I tap the gas a bit - after that it's good to go. The car is at L&S this week while I'm on vacation getting some gears and subframes and they're also looking at the hot start problem - if they can't figure it out I'll play with the EEC a bit and try to tune it out.
Don't you have a Cobra R or RR hood? I'm thinking of getting one of those but would love to see one up close.
hmm i may have the same hot start issue...
well what happens is this
I start car and it will go to like 1100 rpm, then drop down to 200 rpm then die, it will do this 5-6 starts in a row, but if i keep the rpm above 1000 and slip into gear and drive for 1-2 minutes the idle problem goes away...It does this only when really hot outside, but it has also done it once or twice at night when it wasnt so hot...let me know what they figure out on your car
I have the cobra RR hood, i live off burbank near lsu, its a cool hood but black right now( car is red), waiting to graduate to paint the whole car..if i had a choice i would go with the R though, the RR gets annoying sometimes
I have time friday after 12 noon, just lemme know we can grab lunch somewhere
well what happens is this
I start car and it will go to like 1100 rpm, then drop down to 200 rpm then die, it will do this 5-6 starts in a row, but if i keep the rpm above 1000 and slip into gear and drive for 1-2 minutes the idle problem goes away...It does this only when really hot outside, but it has also done it once or twice at night when it wasnt so hot...let me know what they figure out on your car
I have the cobra RR hood, i live off burbank near lsu, its a cool hood but black right now( car is red), waiting to graduate to paint the whole car..if i had a choice i would go with the R though, the RR gets annoying sometimes
I have time friday after 12 noon, just lemme know we can grab lunch somewhere
Stanger007
Founding Member
I'll be out of town this Friday (in Cali on vacation) what are you looking like next week? I work on Bluebonnet/Highland so I'm not too far off from ya if you wanted to meet at Sammy's or George's.
Yeah our problems do sound familiar - mine isn't that bad *yet* - hopefully L&S can track it down before it gets worse - otherwise I'll start by resetting the manual idle adjustments and then going into the EEC and double checking the ISC functions - maybe w/ the ported cobra/CAI something with the airflow is off.
I'll let you know what L&S says.
Yeah our problems do sound familiar - mine isn't that bad *yet* - hopefully L&S can track it down before it gets worse - otherwise I'll start by resetting the manual idle adjustments and then going into the EEC and double checking the ISC functions - maybe w/ the ported cobra/CAI something with the airflow is off.
I'll let you know what L&S says.
Did you try setting the hot idle. This is what hissin50 told me to do and it worked well. You unplug the IAC and set the idle with that unplugged. I then let my computer reset and then i also plugged in the IAC. This method doesnt allow the idle to drop below the hot idle you set it at, the only way your computer can change your idle is by it going higher. (also when i first tried to start my car with the IAC unplugged it would stall until i got the hot idle high enough where it was able to steady out a little bit but it will still be shaky.) Just letting you know something that worked for me, i also cleaned MAF IAC and ACT sensor
Stanger007
Founding Member
L&S said that mechanically everything looked ok with the new IAC and that after pulling up the tune I'm running that it even checked out just fine.
The verdict is that they would have to make a custom SCT chip to tune it out, so with that knowledge I'll just take care of it with the twEECer after I double check all my mechanical idle settings.
The verdict is that they would have to make a custom SCT chip to tune it out, so with that knowledge I'll just take care of it with the twEECer after I double check all my mechanical idle settings.
Sent ya a PMsage2k said:
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