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Removing my AFPR ...

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackVert
  • Start date Start date Aug 17, 2004

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
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98
Bethesda, MD
Aug 17, 2004
#1
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #1
What is the procedure for removing a adjustable fuel pressure regulator? It smells of gas (must be a small leak) and it is causing my car to run really rich. So I am getting rid of it.

I assume that is what this round thing is behind the intake:

 

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fiveohh94gt

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Dec 26, 2003
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#2
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #2
to remove it you start by relieving the pressure in the system by pressing the pin inside the shrader valve on the front of the fuel rail. then take off the vacume line, take out the two allen screws on each side of the regulator and pull it off the fuel line, install the new one in reverse order making sure the o-rings seat compleatly so it wont leak
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
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Bethesda, MD
Aug 17, 2004
#3
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #3
fiveohh94gt said:
to remove it you start by relieving the pressure in the system by pressing the pin inside the shrader valve on the front of the fuel rail. then take off the vacume line, take out the two allen screws on each side of the regulator and pull it off the fuel line, install the new one in reverse order making sure the o-rings seat compleatly so it wont leak
Click to expand...
thanks! should i disconnect the battery first?

also, what if i don't want to put in a new regulator? i just want to remove the one that is in there now.
 
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fiveohh94gt

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#4
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #4
your car MUST have a fuel pressure regulator, though it doesnt have to be adjustable. a non-adjustable stock replacement one runs about $50 at autozone and yea, its not a bad idea to disconnect the battery first
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
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Aug 17, 2004
#5
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #5
fiveohh94gt said:
your car MUST have a fuel pressure regulator, though it doesnt have to be adjustable. a non-adjustable stock replacement one runs about $50 at autozone and yea, its not a bad idea to disconnect the battery first
Click to expand...
shows you how much i know, huh? can you tell from looking at mine if it is an aftermarket adjustable one?
 
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HazMat404

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#6
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #6
yeah...that looks adjustable to me. basically you hook a fuel pressure gauge, pull the vaccum hose off of it, use an socket/ratchet to lossen that nut on the top middle then use an allen head to screw in (or out depending on where you are trying to put that pressure at) then tighten up that nut then put the vaccum hose back on
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
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Bethesda, MD
Aug 17, 2004
#7
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #7
HazMat404 said:
yeah...that looks adjustable to me. basically you hook a fuel pressure gauge, pull the vaccum hose off of it, use an socket/ratchet to lossen that nut on the top middle then use an allen head to screw in (or out depending on where you are trying to put that pressure at) then tighten up that nut then put the vaccum hose back on
Click to expand...
sorry. i have already proven that i'm a newbie (ie-dumba$$) about this stuff, so please expect more stupid questions

- hook a gauge to what? the schrader valve on the other end of the fuel rail?

- if i smell gas (there is a faint gas smell with the key on and engine off), there must be a small leak, right? might i be able to just replace the o-rings fiveohh94gt is talking about or will i definately need a new regulator?

- since there is no battery voltage, and since the vaccuum hose is disconnected, i assume it is a trial and error thing? so if i want 19.6 lph, i:

(1) disconnect stuff;
(2) turn the screw;
(3) reconnect stuff;
(3) turn the car on;
(4) check gauge;
(5) if the pressure is not what i want, goto (1)
(6) else, disconnect stuff again; remove gauge; reconnect stuff

can you tell that i'm a process oriented guy?

- chris
 
H

HazMat404

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#8
  • Aug 17, 2004
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mmm...kinda got the idea. we all had to start on the bottom sometime and im faaar from the top so dont sweat it. you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve (you need an adapter....think the whole sets are like $15-$20 at most auto stores). with the car running, you unplug that vaccum line (the fuel pressure will go up and that is the fuel pressure at wide open throttle). then you adjust up or down (depends on where its at now). once you go out and look at it and read the intructions, it is fairly simple and you will understand it. just make sure there is no pressure in the system when you put on the pressure gauge (you can drain it or just leave it for a few hours...make sure a rag is around it just in case it squirts out a bit too).

because you smell gas, it might be just running too rich. you might not have a leak of any kind. pick up one of those gauges (or find someone with one) and come back and tell us what it is at with the vaccum line off so we can help you find out what might be best. g'luck
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
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98
Bethesda, MD
Aug 17, 2004
#9
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #9
HazMat404 said:
mmm...kinda got the idea. we all had to start on the bottom sometime and im faaar from the top so dont sweat it. you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve (you need an adapter....think the whole sets are like $15-$20 at most auto stores). with the car running, you unplug that vaccum line (the fuel pressure will go up and that is the fuel pressure at wide open throttle). then you adjust up or down (depends on where its at now). once you go out and look at it and read the intructions, it is fairly simple and you will understand it. just make sure there is no pressure in the system when you put on the pressure gauge (you can drain it or just leave it for a few hours...make sure a rag is around it just in case it squirts out a bit too).
Click to expand...
thanks! i'll do it and get back to you. what pressure do i set it to if i want to get back to stock (19.64 lph)?
HazMat404 said:
because you smell gas, it might be just running too rich. you might not have a leak of any kind. pick up one of those gauges (or find someone with one) and come back and tell us what it is at with the vaccum line off so we can help you find out what might be best. g'luck
Click to expand...
my TwEECer verified that it has been running rich. my kamrf is pretty close with the high slope at 20.4 lph. i'm thinking the guy who had the car before me messed with it ... maybe it was pinging or something.
 
H

HazMat404

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#10
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #10
hrmm....well i dunno bout lph but im at 38psi with vac off. some people with less mods than me run at like 40ish. depends on what ur car likes, what ur tweecer says and what ur plugs look like along with the smell at idle and WOT. took me a few weeks to tinker with it enough to get mine running pretty much the strongest it has in awhile (with my other problems of course). i wanna say stock is around 38 or so. im sure someone can correct me if im wrong
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Aug 17, 2004
#11
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #11
HazMat404 said:
hrmm....well i dunno bout lph but im at 38psi with vac off. some people with less mods than me run at like 40ish. depends on what ur car likes, what ur tweecer says and what ur plugs look like along with the smell at idle and WOT. took me a few weeks to tinker with it enough to get mine running pretty much the strongest it has in awhile (with my other problems of course). i wanna say stock is around 38 or so. im sure someone can correct me if im wrong
Click to expand...
just curious, what is your high slope? you have more mods than i do, but maybe since mine is definately breathing better than stock, i'm ok with the 20.4 where i am.

i should go out and smell to see if the gas smell is still there, it is definately leaner than it was when i noticed the smell.

btw, i think you're gonna like that street heat when you get it on.
 
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