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Removing paint with razorblade

  • Thread starter Thread starter 65fastbackresto
  • Start date Start date Jun 10, 2011

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 10, 2011
#1
  • Jun 10, 2011
  • #1








This is 3 nights worth of razorblading, approx 12 hours of work. The paint is apparently attached better to the fenders then the rest of the car, cause its fighting me like crazy.

Anyone know a good way to get the paint off the quarter window vents without messing them up? Soda blasting maybe?
 

PoppyMod

Member
Jun 27, 2010
617
6
19
Severna Park, MD
Jun 11, 2011
#2
  • Jun 11, 2011
  • #2
Hi,

I've heard of using a razor blade for runs and sags but not for whole body removal. You got'ta get the award for tenacity and patience! Looks good though.
I've used aircraft grade paint remover with great success for those tough areas that you mentioned. I found it works much better than the big box store grade. I found it only available at my local auto paint supply.
Good Luck "Mr. Patience"
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jun 11, 2011
#3
  • Jun 11, 2011
  • #3
Something I like is Jasco Graffiti Remover. It's very much like their paint & epoxy remover, only in an aerosol can so it's easier to apply. Both are full of methylene chloride which is great for removing most paints, but hell to get on your skin. It goes through rubber and nitrile gloves, too. Kleen-Strip Aircraft Remover is very similar.

Don't let any of them dry or the paint will harden again into a crusty texture and require reapplication of remover. I use a stiff plastic bristle brush to break up the soft paint.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 11, 2011
#4
  • Jun 11, 2011
  • #4
It`s not so much patience....

It`s more of a lack of money and alot of free time on my hands.
 
K

kttrucks

Member
Apr 28, 2008
57
0
6
Tennessee
Jun 14, 2011
#5
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #5
Aircraft stripper is my suggestion as well.... just be careful with it! the fumes are toxic, but it works like magic. I've used aircraft stripper followed by the razorblade and it gets down to metal in NO TIME.... just remember to neutralize it with water as soon as possible. You'll find that an assortment of wire brushes and small screwdrivers get into corners well, and combined with the stripper.. remove paint very effectively..., but media blasting works best on the really tight places.

KT
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 14, 2011
#6
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #6
Aircraft stripper?

Where would I find that at? And will it hurt fiberglass?
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Jun 14, 2011
#7
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #7
The first thing I always try in my shop is a razor blade than 80 DA. I do not use paint stripper. The only time I did use paint stripper was on the back side of the 67 Shelby hood we are painting. I called the local auto paint supply an ordered paint stripper for fiberglass.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 14, 2011
#8
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #8
I going with Rustys advice

And finishing with 80 DA. I`ve seen too much of his work on here and put hi value in any advice given, thanks Rusty. I`ll also either find some stripper for fiberglass, or just buy another hood scoop, I think these are pretty cheap to come by.

FYI, I`m going with the flat black paint job featured in this month`s Hot Rod magazine, looks like a good out for me with money being as tight as it is right now.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 14, 2011
#9
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #9
Be carefull with that 80 grit, it will erase body lines quickly
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 14, 2011
#10
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #10
Yea I`m glad you brought that up.

I`m gonna tape the body lines off when i do it. I`m actually gonna try and make the lines sharper a little, mite work.
 
L

Loftus

New Member
May 5, 2011
52
0
0
Western US
Jun 14, 2011
#11
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #11
me too

PoppyMod said:
Hi,

I've heard of using a razor blade for runs and sags but not for whole body removal. You got'ta get the award for tenacity and patience! Looks good though.
I've used aircraft grade paint remover with great success for those tough areas that you mentioned. I found it works much better than the big box store grade. I found it only available at my local auto paint supply.
Good Luck "Mr. Patience"
Click to expand...

My wife and used paint stripper and razor blades.I didn't even think you could do it with out the paint stripper!
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Jun 14, 2011
#12
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #12
I don`t think it`ll work on all paint jobs

My paint had bubbles in it so it was already kinda lose, the fender paint isn`t bubbled and it wont come off the same way, takes much more effort on those.
 
P

palerider94

Member
Feb 21, 2006
573
1
19
Jun 15, 2011
#13
  • Jun 15, 2011
  • #13
the guy that painted my car stripped it down to bare metal with Razor blades also. What typoe of blade set up where you using. I've got a 1966 I need to strip down and thinking this would be the cleanest way to go after it.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 15, 2011
#14
  • Jun 15, 2011
  • #14
I just went to Napa

And bought a $6 long reach (maybe 6inches) bladeholder, it of course finally tore apart after about blade number 30 or so. Blades were harbor freight el cheapos.
 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member
Sep 29, 2007
943
265
104
Port Richey Fl
Jun 16, 2011
#15
  • Jun 16, 2011
  • #15
palerider94 said:
the guy that painted my car stripped it down to bare metal with Razor blades also. What typoe of blade set up where you using. I've got a 1966 I need to strip down and thinking this would be the cleanest way to go after it.
Click to expand...

 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
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Jun 24, 2011
#16
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #16
After the razorblading, paint stripper was next








 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
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Jun 24, 2011
#17
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #17
And a quick da sanding job to finish






 
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