Removing Steering Wheel

[94GTLaserRC]

I got a GOOD puller today and the airbag is already disconnected. The Torx bit is out, but Im not sure how this puller works, nor am I sure which wires need to be removed or disconnected before hooking up the tool. I looked at the interior painting thread, and it shows the airbag removal, then a single pic of the puller, then EVERYTHING gone but the clock spring. Dont want to screw up another thing.

Thanks
RC

 

[HISSIN50]

It's not tough RC. I disconnect all the connectors I can access (only two or 3 IIRC. Be sure the Air bag capacitors have had a chance to discharge).
Be sure the mainshaft of the puller will not gall your threads (where the big torx bolt went). If it looks like it will, I put the torx back in a few turns, and then put the puller against the head of the torx bit.
Then put the smaller bolts into the bosses in the wheel and cinch them nicely. Then tighten the mainshaft. You'll get a hard pop. Once you do, you can remove the puller and the torx bolt (if you put it back on a few turns) and the wheel should all but fall in your lap.

When I reinstall it, I like to put a light smear of neverseize on the hub.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

It's not tough RC. I disconnect all the connectors I can access (only two or 3 IIRC. Be sure the Air bag capacitors have had a chance to discharge).
Be sure the mainshaft of the puller will not gall your threads (where the big torx bolt went). If it looks like it will, I put the torx back in a few turns, and then put the puller against the head of the torx bit.
Then put the smaller bolts into the bosses in the wheel and cinch them nicely. Then tighten the mainshaft. You'll get a hard pop. Once you do, you can remove the puller and the torx bolt (if you put it back on a few turns) and the wheel should all but fall in your lap.

When I reinstall it, I like to put a light smear of neverseize on the hub.

Galll= Strip?

The airbag is already out, which I did to paint it. I figured I would replace the steering wheel at the same time I replace the clock spring.

ANy tips on putting in the new clockspring?

RC

 

[GTA_V6_Mustang]

DO NOT LET IT TURN, lol. Biggest tip

 

[94GTLaserRC]

It's not tough RC. I disconnect all the connectors I can access (only two or 3 IIRC. Be sure the Air bag capacitors have had a chance to discharge).
Be sure the mainshaft of the puller will not gall your threads (where the big torx bolt went). If it looks like it will, I put the torx back in a few turns, and then put the puller against the head of the torx bit.
Then put the smaller bolts into the bosses in the wheel and cinch them nicely. Then tighten the mainshaft. You'll get a hard pop. Once you do, you can remove the puller and the torx bolt (if you put it back on a few turns) and the wheel should all but fall in your lap.

When I reinstall it, I like to put a light smear of neverseize on the hub.

I took a wheel off in the junkyard, and I heard the pop and the removal went well. When I reinstall, do I just push it back on or hammer it lightly or what

Thanks
RC

 

[HISSIN50]

I took a wheel off in the junkyard, and I heard the pop and the removal went well. When I reinstall, do I just push it back on or hammer it lightly or what

Thanks
RC

I make sure the hub surfaces are clean and smooth. Then put a light smear of neverseize on them and use the bolt to re-seat the wheel. IIRC the bolt is one-time use (so one should use a new one) and torque it to spec.

 

[Chythar]

You can rent a kit that has a steering wheel installer as well. I don't recommend using a hammer or you'll likely damage the steering column.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

I make sure the hub surfaces are clean and smooth. Then put a light smear of neverseize on them and use the bolt to re-seat the wheel. IIRC the bolt is one-time use (so one should use a new one) and torque it to spec.

Use "which" bolt to re-seat?

I rented a puller kit but Im not going to return it, because it's only $21 and it's a nice one.

I dont have an "installer" kit. Is there a separate one for that?

ALSO, Put a new post up for help with Clockspring install.

Thanks
RC

 

[HISSIN50]

Use "which" bolt to re-seat?

The center bolt that holds the steering wheel to the column (it has a big torx head).

I can always get the wheel started enough (by hand, without force) that the bolt can be threaded down a good ways before it even touches the steering wheel's hub. Then I use the bolt to pull the wheel the rest of the way on (there's never much resistance once I dress the interface and neverseize it).

The advice to use an installer is a good idea - I just have never used one so I didnt post about doing it.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

The center bolt that holds the steering wheel to the column (it has a big torx head).

I can always get the wheel started enough (by hand, without force) that the bolt can be threaded down a good ways before it even touches the steering wheel's hub. Then I use the bolt to pull the wheel the rest of the way on (there's never much resistance once I dress the interface and neverseize it).

The advice to use an installer is a good idea - I just have never used one so I didnt post about doing it.

Im still a little confused. You keep saying "pull" the wheel. You mean "push" it on by tightening the torx bolt and let tightening the bolt push the wheel down?

Also, is the Torx bolt the one you say should NEVER be reused? I dont imagine that bolt is very easy to find to buy a new one and replace it.

Thanks
RC

 

[HISSIN50]

Im still a little confused. You keep saying "pull" the wheel. You mean "push" it on by tightening the torx bolt and let tightening the bolt push the wheel down?

Also, is the Torx bolt the one you say should NEVER be reused? I dont imagine that bolt is very easy to find to buy a new one and replace it.

Thanks
RC

Semantics aside, you've got it RC.

The threads of the bolt are what draw or pull upon the bolt's head. It's the same way a crank's bolt (or properly speaking, an installation tool) pulls a new balancer onto the crank's snout.

If the wheel was held on with a nail and you were hammering a nail in, then you'd be pushing the wheel on.

As I recall from the Service manual (and maybe even Haynes), they want you to use a new bolt (we are talkin about the central torx head bolt). Given the sensitve nature of airbags and all that, I would not offer advice that differs from that of the Factory recommendation.

I have not tried to procure this bolt. If LRS or the dealer doesnt have it, Green's might have it.

Green Sales Company - Obsolete Ford parts, Lincoln, Mercury parts Green Sales Company, supplier of obsolete Ford parts and Lincoln / Mercury parts.  Our Ford parts inventory represents all Ford and Lincoln / Mercury products from 1950 to the present.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Semantics aside, you've got it RC.

The threads of the bolt are what draw or pull upon the bolt's head. It's the same way a crank's bolt (or properly speaking, an installation tool) pulls a new balancer onto the crank's snout.

If the wheel was held on with a nail and you were hammering a nail in, then you'd be pushing the wheel on.

As I recall from the Service manual (and maybe even Haynes), they want you to use a new bolt (we are talkin about the central torx head bolt). Given the sensitve nature of airbags and all that, I would not offer advice that differs from that of the Factory recommendation.

I have not tried to procure this bolt. If LRS or the dealer doesnt have it, Green's might have it.

Green Sales Company - Obsolete Ford parts, Lincoln, Mercury parts Green Sales Company, supplier of obsolete Ford parts and Lincoln / Mercury parts.* Our Ford parts inventory represents all Ford and Lincoln / Mercury products from 1950 to the present.

Thanks...I know your position on Giving advice around the airbag.
We just took a lunch break and are RIGHT now at the point where we are getting ready to put on clock spring and wheel.

Thanks for the help!!

RC

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Got it back on...will put pics later. WHile in the car we replaced the carpet, painted some interior pieces, replaced the clockspring, cleared all airbag codes, and some other things.

Thanks for the help...I think the clockspring replace was a success.

RC