Removing the EGR

I didnt remove mine but i did 'block it off' so that no coolant goes to it, thru it.

Phatt_daddy said:

I have a bone stock engine, no smog addons seeing as how I live in AL. they are not needed, no a/c, and now I want to know if I can remove my egr valve and block off the hole?

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To answer your question Yes, you can block it off.

The more important question is... Why get rid of it?

The EGR does not affect power at WOT and is beleived by most to improve fuel economy at part throttle. If you pull the EGR your timing will be adversely affected at part throttle, which can cause some drivability issues. There are aftermarket units (and you can fabricate your own) that will fool the computer into thinking the EGR is still working properly. Well for the most part, I still get EGR codes from the computer.

I removed mine a few years ago thinking it was a good idea. Now, after learning more about how the system works, I wish I hadn't because EGR is a win/win emissions component.

What is your motivation for pulling the EGR?

yeah why would you want to pull the egr anyways?

Phatt_daddy said:

I have a bone stock engine, no smog addons seeing as how I live in AL. they are not needed, no a/c, and now I want to know if I can remove my egr valve and block off the hole?

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I removed my EGR a few years ago when I got milled heads and quickly found out that if you don't shut off the EGR function with a tuner inside of the computer you can detonate because the computer boosts timing in order to compensate for the exhaust gases in the intake stream. If you don't have the EGR gases present your timing will be way up for your A\F ratio. I put my EGR back on yesterday with the same milled heads and no pinging and my gas mileage improved too. Bottom line is keep the EGR.
Tim

Might need an intake and some ancillary items for carb.

I would keep the EGR. There should be no way for gas to come out of the EGR - it passes inert gasses.

Good luck.

I'm with HISSIN50. You'll be happier with the EFI once you get it right.

Phatt_daddy said:

Why do I want to remove it? Let me see, well since the car came from a meth head that thought he could work on cars the wiring was butchered. After I fixed that when I pulled the engine, I figured out that it wasn't working. How did I figure it out? When I pulled it off the intake pure gas poured out of it then I checked it along with my haynes manual. No dice, acording to them it ain't working. So I figured that if it ain't working then why have it taking up weight? I know it is only ounces, but when the driver weighs in at 260 plus change, every little bit helps. Also it is a little pricey to take the chance at it not helping out on the gas milage.

So what do yall suggest? Keep it and also replace the O2 sensors along with the MAP and IAC? or forget all and carb with a stock 4brl intake and a Holley 4brl? Car gets like 10-12 mpg right now and it is my dd. This is getting expensive and in about three weeks I will be doing one of the two. Oh yea, to carb all I need to buy is the carb, regulator, some line, and the air cleaner. Do the math and give me some suggestions.

Thanks,
Nate.

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First, those fuel economy numbers are very bad for your combo. You should be over 20mpg, if not ver close to 20. The EGR will help with this as confirmed by 18mustangs. In fact, I think I was getting close to 25 in the GT when it was stock. I seriously doubt you will get that with a carb.
While it will be expensive to replace all of these components, fuel injection is still the better route to take. The carb setup will not provide as much fuel economy AND max power. The carb can usually provide one or the other fairly well, but not both. Since this is your dd, and you obviously have the performance bug, I recommend sticking it out with FI.
I don't get the whole argument dealing with the previous owner. Just because the previous owner hacked up the car does not mean that you should hack together a carb setup to replace the hacked EFI. In my opinion, if your going to do something, do it as best you can (that's what mom always said anyway).
To make sure that all of the EFI components you listed for replacement are actually bad I would suggest testing them the same way you tested the EGR, if you have not already done so. Pulling the codes from the computer will be a big help with this, especially if the car has been abused by the previous owner. This way you may be able to eliminate one or two items from the expense list. If you need help with testing items post your questions here, as there are many folks on this site who can help with that.
As far as having fuel in the EGR, that is pretty scary. I can't even imagine how it got there. Coolant maybe, but not fuel.

I haven't priced them in a while but aren't the good carbs around $300. I believe you will also need a different fuel pump as well. EFI fuel pressure on a carb=bad fuel economy.

I am willing to bet that for the cost of the carb alone you could do a pretty good tune up on the car. You would probably still have enough to get plugs and wires too.
Well those are my thoughts. Whether you agree or disagree I hope it means something to you.
Good Luck.
jason

Phatt_daddy said:

Well after some serious figuring, I have decided that yall are right. From a cost perspective, it will be "cheaper" for me to stay with the efi by about $100.00.and that was with me replacingiac valve, egr valve, 2 oxy sensors, tps, map sensor, new short belt, both heater hoses, lower rad hose, water pump, and a speedo cable. Still came out about a hundred cheaper. Looks like I will stay injected.

Nate

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Still $100 less, with a list that long, wow.

Hooray for EFI

I am sure you will be happier with this than a carb, once you get everything working right that is.

While we're at it can we talk you into keeping EGR too?

Good deal. If your climate is anything like Jason's, it is nice having the day-to-day drivability of EFI (for temps ranging from the teens to 90*F).

Good luck.

I have my EGR blocked as stated above but have had none of the ill symtoms that yall have described. I get 15mpg city and 20mpg hiway and thats on the original O2 sensors that have 100k on them. A couple of my buddies also w/ fox stangs have blocked theres with no regrets. Guess we're just lucky?!

Phatt daddy check this site out : http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=61


I have not had any problems

darthcual said:

I have my EGR blocked as stated above but have had none of the ill symtoms that yall have described. I get 15mpg city and 20mpg hiway and thats on the original O2 sensors that have 100k on them. A couple of my buddies also w/ fox stangs have blocked theres with no regrets. Guess we're just lucky?!

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I think a small majority of EGR removals works out like yours. My vehicle seemed to run fairly well without the EGR, but then again I have always had other issues, preventing the motor from running at its best.

Did you keep accurate records of your fuel economy before blocking the EGR?

I would be interested to compare your vehicle to what 18mustangs is driving, and my own. For example if the computer is different, does it handle the closed EGR signal different?