Removing the engine

Capt Dan

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

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College Station, Texas

Jul 31, 2008

#1

• Jul 31, 2008

• #1

I am removing my 289 prior to sending it (the rest of the car) to paint.

Where is the best place to attach the engine leveler?

Do I back out intake bolts? If so, do I need to remove and reinstall afterward with new gaskets?

I have seen a lifting plate that bolts to the carb studs, but this seems like it would put a lot of stress on the aluminum intake.

New bolts into the end of the heads?

 

blown65

Founding Member

Jul 7, 1999

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Queen Creek Arizona

Jul 31, 2008

#2

• Jul 31, 2008

• #2

All ive ever used on the SB is the carb plate. Works just fine. They did a test on it in one of the magazines and they concluded it was by far strong enough. (Even for BB motors it was fine)

 

Pakrat

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Aug 6, 2000

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Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po

Jul 31, 2008

#3

• Jul 31, 2008

• #3

I haven't done this alot but I have always added new grade 8 bolts to the heads. Based on what I have read though I would probably try the carb plate next time.

 

Capt Dan

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

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College Station, Texas

Jul 31, 2008

#4

• Jul 31, 2008

• #4

Will the engine and transmission come out together or do I need to seperate before pulling?

 

Capt Dan

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

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College Station, Texas

Jul 31, 2008

#5

• Jul 31, 2008

• #5

FWIW I found this:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/catalog/articles_lift_engine_08.pdf

Thanks.

 

blown65

Founding Member

Jul 7, 1999

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Queen Creek Arizona

Jul 31, 2008

#6

• Jul 31, 2008

• #6

Ya, I've seen that one too. Breaks at 5k lbs pull and the engines weight less than 600.

 

calpolymustang

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Feb 1, 2004

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Santa Rosa, CA

Jul 31, 2008

#7

• Jul 31, 2008

• #7

OR...
you could go to a junk yard and pull the hooks that are used on the 5.0s. theres two of em, and they attach to two exhaust manifold bolts each. one is cylinder #4 (passenger side, rear), the other is #5 (driver side, front)

then you attach the hooks to the hoist with chain, or with a balancing kit (which allows you to tilt the engine)

i'll try to post pics when i can

 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member

Sep 9, 2000

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Antelope Valley, SoCal

Jul 31, 2008

#8

• Jul 31, 2008

• #8

I have a pair of the 5.0 lifting loops that I use as well, but for other engines I just use Grade 8 bolts in the accessory mounting holes at the ends of the heads.

 

BullittStangV8

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Oct 5, 2002

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NJ

Jul 31, 2008

#9

• Jul 31, 2008

• #9

Grade 8 bolts through the heads is what I used, with washers, attached to a chain. Carb plate should do it too.

 

A

alexb_

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Nov 23, 2007

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Jul 31, 2008

#10

• Jul 31, 2008

• #10

Capt Dan said:

FWIW I found this:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/catalog/articles_lift_engine_08.pdf

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Are those the standard nuts from the carb he's using? I picked up a cherry picker and a lift plate on the cheap but I was planning on getting some heavier duty nuts and washers -- the ones that were holding down my carb seemed small to me.

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

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LA, CA

Aug 1, 2008

#11

• Aug 1, 2008

• #11

IMO, it depends if you are doing motor and trans together or if you are going to put them seperate. If you pull them together I like to use a different mount point to keep it more ballanced front to back. If you are just pulling the motor, then a carb plate should work great, even with an aluminum intake.