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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Removing tranny. Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Road_Runna
  • Start date Start date Jun 14, 2008
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 14, 2008
#1
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #1
I've disconnected all electrical, and radiator transmission tubes/wires.
The driveshaft is in the way, how do I move/disconnect the driveshaft away enough to clear the tranny? (4 rear driveshaft bolts)? do I need an impact wrench?
Help.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 14, 2008
#2
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #2
Any suggestions on how to remove the 4 12mm bolts, driving me insane.
I just checked 12mm are of a better fit than the 1/2 star socket.
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
1,382
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Miami
Jun 14, 2008
#3
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #3
I believe it is 12mm 12pt socket. I would try impact wrench first, if it does not loosen the bolts you are going to need to use a breaker bar for leverage. Or my my is using a pipe at the end of a rachet for leverage. Put the car in park and the e- brake on to hold it from turning. Release it from park and e-brake as you turn the driveshaft to get to the other bolts, then apply the park, e-brake again. Repeat as needed. Once you have all the bolts out, drop the rear of the driveshaft down and push/pull towards back of car to completly remove the driveshaft.
 

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member
Nov 29, 2004
1,326
3
39
Miami, FL
Jun 14, 2008
#4
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #4
I used the E-brake to lock the rear and 2 wrenches one 12mm box end for the bolts and one 13 for the extra leverage to break the bolts free. After that you just slide the D/S out.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 14, 2008
#5
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #5
Ok goth those out, used a blow torch with a breaker bar. Phew.

I removed 2 bolts from the driver side connected to the cylinder heads i believe, and 2 bolts from directlly under the car (2 lower bolts) connected to bell houseing any more? should I remove the Startor or just pull that with the trans ? Are their any bolts on the pasenger side, I can't seem to find any.
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
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Miami
Jun 14, 2008
#6
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #6
I believe you have to remove the starter as there is an engine plate it also bolts up to. Check to make sure, I don't remember. There should be bolts on pass, driver, and top of bellhousing to remove completely.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 14, 2008
#7
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #7
I took 2 lower bolts off where it appears to be the lower ell housing, and half a plate came off, and the Torque converter can easily be seen.
I also removed 2 bigger bolts on the driver's side.
___ ________ ________ ______________ ______________ _______________
Now the problem: the startor has 2 nuts in conjuction to hold the Oxygen sensor, I removed both, and it appears the stator has 1 bigger bolt that goes in from the rear bell housing plate and the other about the same size bolt, coming in from the front engine side, it's just under the passenger side header. around the area where transmission oil dip stick tube is at.

Im also having problems getting the transmission oil dip stick tube out of the way (black and shiny) i've tried pulling it, moving it different directions nothing.

Any ideas? on starter, and trans dip stick?
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
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0
Miami
Jun 14, 2008
#8
  • Jun 14, 2008
  • #8
take bolts off of converter. It bolts up to the flywheel, you'll never get the tranny out if you don't unbolt the converter.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 15, 2008
#9
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #9
I took the bottom visible bell housing plate (it looks like 1/3 of the size of the bell housing) out only 2 small bolts to remove that plate to get a better look at the fly wheel, now when I try turning those bolts loose the fly wheels turns as well, not giving me a chance to turn the bolts out. i've put the driveshaft back in with parking brake and foot brake and still nothing. any ideas?

I took all the bolts that come from the back of the bell house, 2 at the very top, 2 at the driver, 2 (counting the trans dip stick) that's a total of 6. 1 bolt is still atached, just below the headers still in the are of the dip stick. it goes (in) from the engine direction, pointing to the bell house.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 15, 2008
#10
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #10
Never mind i've successfully removed the startor.

Now how do I remove the fly wheel to torque converter bolts (i believe there are 40) enough to finally drop the Transmission out of the transmission bay?
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
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Jun 15, 2008
#11
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #11
have someone hold the crank bolt as you try to loosen the bolts of the converter.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 15, 2008
#12
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #12
Holding the crank bolt from in fron of the engine? where the pulley's are?
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
1,382
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0
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Jun 15, 2008
#13
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #13
yes, where the crank pulley is, in the center of it. I believe it is 15/16
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 15, 2008
#14
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #14
Thanks STR8, I took 4 of the bolts out fro fly/Torque converter, there doesn't seem to be any more bolts I can pull, but I still can't get the tranny out. I'll try again tomorrow. I took all the bolts out from the bell house to the ones attached to the cylinder heads.
But holding the crank was the one I really needed. Thanks. i'll post more help question if I need any.

Spoke to soon, on reasembly, how important is it to mark the driveshaft? Not really worried about I marked it, theirs always an if tho.
 

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
1,382
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0
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Jun 15, 2008
#15
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #15
No problem, glad I could help. You may want to use a tranny jack or something similar, that tranny is very heavy, be careful! You should be able to pull it out, if you can by hand, flat head screwdriver to pry away from the block.

It depends who you speak to about marking the driveshaft, it ok if you did, and ok if you didn't in my opinion.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 16, 2008
#16
  • Jun 16, 2008
  • #16
Yeah I purchased a trans jack the other day, even using that for support i've managed to pull just a little (maybe an inch) but it still wont budge, i'll try the scredriver method.
 
R

Road_Runna

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 23, 2002
594
6
39
46
Ogden, UT
Jun 28, 2008
#17
  • Jun 28, 2008
  • #17
For those using aftermarket torque converters. Are grade 5 bolts good enough to bolt the torque converter to the fly wheel, I purchased a torque converter with a stall of 3k? the only bolt the fit into the TC threads are the 3/8 24 fine threaded bolts. The grade 8's aren't available in fine threadsI can't find grade 8 fine threads?
 
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