Removing trim without damaging paint?

nidyanazo · Jan 27, 2006

This might sound silly, but....When you remove trim for good, you peel it off and there is double-sided tape attaching it to the body. How would you remove the tape? I was thinking either gasoline/M.E.K. and a plastic putty knife...I can remove it by "rolling" my fingers over it, but it takes SO long. Any ideas?

stangjunkie · Jan 27, 2006

gasoline takes paint with it... use brake parts cleaner also it that all that hold side trim on is molding tape??

nidyanazo · Jan 27, 2006

Brake cleaner..... I guess I'll give it a shot. (No pun intended.) And, yes to your question.

sgarlic · Jan 27, 2006

I use Xylol, you can buy big cans of it at any hardware store, and it's like goo-gone but about 100 times stronger. I'm not sure what it's actually for, but my dad was a chemist and swore by the stuff for removing sticky stuff. It ate a bit at the plastic body panels on my old crotch rocket, but I've never had a problem with it eating through paint on a car.. best to try it on an inconspicuous spot first.

90mustangGT · Jan 28, 2006

Use a heat gun and the heat will weaken the bond of the glue and then use a plastic scraper to scrape it off or if your hands can take it try rolling it off, it will be much easier.

87_stang · Jan 28, 2006

Acetone works pretty good also. I use it alot when removing emplems and decals on boats to get the sticky back off the gelcoat.

Euphoric306 · Jan 28, 2006

try using brake fluid, that stuff won't damage your paint at all. DOT 5 recommended

just kiddin man, also i applaud you on machining your own block by yourself

PuterAmI · Jan 28, 2006

What is used at the professional level is a 3M Stripe Off wheel available at any auto paint store for less than $25. Attach it to a drill and have a good day.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...us_aad_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

nidyanazo · Jan 28, 2006

Euphoric: Broing the block was easy compared to honing. I used a Sunnen automatic hone. It was far from automatic though. Setting the pressure and reading the gauge was difficult at first, but I got it done. Came out with a perfect piston-to-wall clearance or 0.002". I was able to magnaflux and sonic test the block before, and do everything I wanted...Even down to cam bearing installation. (They taper from front to back.) All for $93 at the local college. Saved alot of cash and learned a few cool things. For sure the most gratifying "mod" yet.
I set up the oil clearances a bit wide and gapped the rings on the large side as well, to take a 150-200 shot.
All said and done, should have a 2600lb mustang putting down 425-475 rwtq. I really just want 11's. Maybe 10's. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Euphoric306 · Jan 28, 2006

sounds like a great plan bro, keep up with teh updates

...how do you plan on getting down to 2600 pounds though, i don't believe i've ever heard of a iron-blocked fox getting that light.

RacEoHolic330 · Jan 28, 2006

87_stang said:
Acetone works pretty good also. I use it alot when removing emplems and decals on boats to get the sticky back off the gelcoat.

Acetone is gonna eat away at the paint like crazy.

mustangsally93 · Jan 28, 2006

WOW you guy are killing me!! brake fuild? what hell?!! Go to napa or o'reillys. I got a can of ***** remover there for about 10$

nidyanazo · Jan 29, 2006

Goo-be gone does not work. Methel ethel ketone (sp?) does not work. Neither does degreaser or carb spray for that matter. I'm getting pissed. I might take it to a detail shop and see if they will do it for $20. Euphoric: Ya I took some pics during the build, I love the way the cylinder walls came out, they look great in the photos. I honed them in 3 stages, starting with a mildly coarse stone, and finishing with an extra-fine stone. I'll make a thread sometime with the pics. I've been working for a while on getting the weight down. So far the major savings have come from: No interior. That's dash/carpet rear seats etc. Just 2 seats and gauges. Bumper/door supports, the whole top (it's a roadster now!) rear windows, wiper motor, ac/smog/heater (even the hard lines). EVERYTHING that is not going to make it faster, is gone or going. With the addition of a mild cage, tq. box reinforcments, sub frames.....For chassis stifness.
I'm not sure If it will be able to get back on the CA streets, but I have other cars for toiling around to the store. I wanted to see what I could do with mostly stock components (read heads & cam) and get it to run fast, while getting the power to weight ratio as good as possible. Then spray it and go faster.

PuterAmI · Jan 29, 2006

nidyanazo said:
Goo-be gone does not work. Methel ethel ketone (sp?) does not work. Neither does degreaser or carb spray for that matter. I'm getting pissed. I might take it to a detail shop and see if they will do it for $20.

As I mentioned, they will use a 3M Stripe Off wheel. You said you rolled it off with your finger/thumb. That is exactly how this works. You run the drill low speed and the tape residue is "rolled off" like the white erasers some folks used in school.

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