I know it doesn't sound like a big deal, but I was wondering what is involved in removing the valve covers. I have worn out valve cover gaskets and I'm going to try to replace them myself. Tips and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
take off the upper intake and just move everything else to the side. Get a razor knife so you can scrape all the old gasket off and use a shopvac to remove anything that fell into the head.
I would pay the extra money and get the metal & rubber reusable gaskets! No sealant to worry about getting all over the place and no worries about later leaks. I changed mine like 3 times before I got the reusable ones due to leaks, and I haven't touched them since, probably over 100K miles. One time the leak even toasted a fairly new (24K) clutch.
Oh, and make sure you get the vacuum lines back on correctly when you put the intake back on. Be careful about breaking any of the brittle plastic vacuum lines along the firewall too. If they do break, just connect them with a 1" piece of rubber tubing.
it is not always necessary to remove the upper intake. i have never had a stock upper before to verify if it is doable or not.
regardless, either remove that then go at them. or get a small extension/small socket, play with the extension/socket combo until the length works. i have removed vc's before without removing the upper.
as far as the gaskets, i use cork gaskets. i HAD the rubber/metal core re-useable ones. they leaked for me. cork ones have not leaked. i use no sealer, and i have torqued them back on many times.
it is a real wise investment to get the stud kit if you can find one. it makes aligning the valve cover and gasket much much easier. then you dont worry about pinching it or aligning it wrong.
Thanks for the info, guys. I have heard from different people who take the upper intake off, and some who don't. I think I'm gonna take off the upper when I take the valve covers off so I can repaint the intake and valve covers. Is it necessary to drain the coolant?
Few more questions. First, what'e the proper way to disconnect the long hose that conects from the back of the engine bay to the A/C compressor? And what's the amount that the upper intake and valve covers need to be torqued down to?
You don't need to remove that A/C line. It looks like it's in the way but it's not. When you have the intake bolts off, the intake will come off with plenty of clearance. Per my Chilton's manual: Upper intake manifold bolts are 12-18 ft-lbs. Then when everything's all buttoned up, start the engine and check for leaks. Then "operate the engine at a fast idle, when engine temperatures have stabilized, tighten the manifold bolts to 23-25 ft-lbs."