replace ECM
- Thread starter jonbacon
- Start date
Yeah the computer. I still havent got the idle issue under control..its way better. but another guy around here whos good with the fox bodies thinks it maybe the computer. I dont know what to do other than slap a carb and intake on it to eliminatet the issue..im good with it that way. so wasnt sure where I could find one , and when I do, do I need to do a reset all over or should it basically just plug up and run.. Im still having it run really rough and sputter when its cold. will eventually get better when its really warm if I can get it to stay cranked to warm it up.. so he thinks it the comp..
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Doubt it's the computer..I would say you have another issue.. I think there is a way to check to make sure the computer is operating correctly..code 11 sticks in my head for some reason..
If the car runs, there's a 99.9% chance it's not the EEC and the issue lies elsewhere. What type of mods do you have, and what codes come up when you pull them?
Ive got headers, pipes on it, no ther mods than that.. it has has the same issue forever since I got it... replaced the idle air, maf,tps, have done the surge lsit many times.. seems to run ok in warm( 65 up) weather. tps is good, everything as far as I can see is good. i was told it could be computer. It will crank and idle after i give her a little gas and keep it reved for a bit, but when I go to drive it when accerating i get to about 10mph and it will almost cut out, like loses power till I get off the gas. this is all easy acceleration. Doesnt do it as much when its warm at all. when its cold she doesnt drive good at alll. most days it stays parked cause you would get killed trying to drive it. i was wondering if it could be crank postion sensor or some other sensor im missing,..im really at a loss, the ford dealer here wont touch it, say its to old.. I guess they dont take me serious about it. There are a few clubs her in the area,but cant drive it to them to show them the issues,,
so it has new:
maf
idle air
tps
fuel filter
plugs
O2's
only mods are headers, exhaust which are 40 flows,,which i will change soon to borla or similar type, cant stand flowmaster,, every one has them..
any help would be greatly appreciated??
so it has new:
maf
idle air
tps
fuel filter
plugs
O2's
only mods are headers, exhaust which are 40 flows,,which i will change soon to borla or similar type, cant stand flowmaster,, every one has them..
any help would be greatly appreciated??
betke76
20+ Year Stangneter 
i knw, i really dont want to swith either... would be easier,but i like the fuel injection.. just not sure where else to look , no engine light on, will check codes again this weekend, as it wil lbe fairly warm here. my pvc was lose last time it cleared right up. Im wondering if it just needs a new one, or keeps popping in and out,,i just got a fuel pressure kit, so i will check that as well.. wouldnt doubt the injectors are clogged, it has all origianl parts on it.. would any other sensors casue this type of issue, without throwing a code?? i was told about coolant temp sens, crank shaft....so could i be missing one, goignt o replace the pvc, sicne i think its pretty old and a cheap fix. could just be its lose and old..
betke76
20+ Year Stangneter
I would change the pcv valve and the rubber grommet and screen, could be weak fuel pump or the baffle in the gas tank is loose and banging around
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Yeah after posting been thinking about it... goign to just spend the 10 $$ for new pvc.. hopefully thats it. goign to have fuel pressure tested to.. I guess the pvc is hopping in and out or is so old its just not keeping pressure.. so once i get al the info i will re-post to see if theres codes and all the test and info i get.thansk for the help..
Blown88GT
Founding Member
You will never find the problem by throwing parts at it. From your description, it's not the EEC-IV & it would be the last thing to try, not the first thing. BTW, Fox bodies have no crank position sensor; pvc is plastic pipe, pcv is positive crankcase ventilation.
ok, well now that we ve got that corrected...Im not throwing parts at it. your vast knowledge of part names doesnt help me out either. everything I replaced was casue it was bad. ..tps, wouldnt read the correct volts(per jrichker).. replaced it and set it.. reads great now.. all other parts were in need, has factory parts on it.. Ive only replaced a few peices, that threw codes until they were replaced, and as I stated earlier I was told by a guy that it could be computer.. the "PCV" was the problem last time.. and havent repalced it. based on everyones opinion saying its old im changing it.. not cause I have a extra 4bucks to spend.. I bascially am only fixing what is reccomended..Ive done the surge list... worked great once Iactually did it correctly. jrichker has hepled with that . Although I apprecite you correcting my grahmar,thats not what I needed..I am a chevy guy, this car is for my wife... So I have to learn all this for fords... not even close to being the same breed of car!!...My Nova II, runs smooth and for a 12 sec street car..The 06 gt we have fortunately hasnt had any issues yet.... So im looking for help...Gotta admit when a freaking ford dealer says they dont wanna work on it thats bad...They say they can park it and get to it when they can,..F*ck that... so I need help to learn the systems, why it does what it does..but next time Im responding via andoid in my car driving and it changes my words from auto correct,, I'll triple check ..Dude I know the part names and what they look like.. just dont know crap about a ford.. so if you can help or have a idea of what to look for next that would be great...
Problems that occur when cold but go away when the engine warms up may be related to the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. It lives in the front passenger side of the lower intake manifold. Normal location is in the two tubes that supply coolant th the heater.
Here's the test data, your results should be similar...
Dumping the codes will normally show a faulty sensor. The ACT & ECT may be on the outer limits and not set a code but cause problems. Use a DVM or multimeter to check them.
Pin 25 ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer.
Pin 7 ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same.
Here's the table: The values are +/- 15%, so don't get worried if your readings vary a little bit.
Voltages are measured across the two connector pins of the sensor with the sensor connected. Some safety pins used to probe the connector from the rear will be helpful
50 degrees F = 3.52 v
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
212 degrees F = .47 v
230 degrees F = .36 v
248 degrees F = .28 v
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor wiring disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
212 degrees F = 2.07 K ohms
230 degrees F = 1.55 K ohms
248 degrees F = 1.18 k ohms
Here's the test data, your results should be similar...
Dumping the codes will normally show a faulty sensor. The ACT & ECT may be on the outer limits and not set a code but cause problems. Use a DVM or multimeter to check them.
Pin 25 ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer.
Pin 7 ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts
The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same.
Here's the table: The values are +/- 15%, so don't get worried if your readings vary a little bit.
Voltages are measured across the two connector pins of the sensor with the sensor connected. Some safety pins used to probe the connector from the rear will be helpful
50 degrees F = 3.52 v
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
212 degrees F = .47 v
230 degrees F = .36 v
248 degrees F = .28 v
Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor wiring disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
212 degrees F = 2.07 K ohms
230 degrees F = 1.55 K ohms
248 degrees F = 1.18 k ohms
93Cobra2771
New Member
First question - is the check engine light lit?
Second question - cold air intake or stock airbox?
Second question - cold air intake or stock airbox?
What are the codes? If any?
If the engine runs, it's not the computer
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
If the engine runs, it's not the computer
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
Yeah engine runs, actually great for the most part at a idel,.. just lose the power when accelerating..and it has a cone on the end of intake,,,, when it got it, it ran fine .. THE DEAL IS.. I got the car it had a fan relay on it controling the after market fans on radiator. but wasnt working. so I took off the module. since then everytime I drive it when i go to accelerate its just cuts out on me.. like no RPM's.. when i let off the gas it revs back normal, but feels like it has no power.. Im sure the little raly didnt really have anything to do with the issues.. So then I did the surge list.. found the pcv to be out of its hole.. once i put it back in it drove good,.,.but now its back at messing up. plan on putting the stock air box back on.. just have to find one at a junk yard.. thinking maybe the pcv is just bad, havent had time to check and wil this weekend..
ttopstang
Active Member
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