Replaced Ignition Switch - Still Problems :(

[Retro10]

OK, I replaced the ignition switch and I still have no power... I do have head lights, dome lights and horn, but nothing else, I dont even have brake lights...

Now we can put the screw driver to the soleniod and the car trys to turn over and I put the code tester on and I got one long tone with of course no codes....

Now could this be the actual ignition where the key goes in? What else could it be? before I could get power back so that I could start it and then it would die again, I cant even get that now...

Thanks for your help on this!

 

[88hatchblack]

check your fusable links to the starter solenoid. that was my problem...i had brake lights though

 

[Retro10]

I did check them and seems ok?? This big problem all started when I ran the AC...yesterday at least when the power went out it came back on but now I cant get anything?

 

[Retro10]

Should put for anyone that didnt see my earlier posts, its for a 93 GT

 

[Retro10]

any thing?? Sorry to be a bother about this, but I got less than 2 weeks before we leave for a trip in the stang and need to get this fixed.
Thanks

 

[stang22]

Turn the key to the run position and jump the solenoid with a screw driver. If the starter turns over, it is either your solenoid, or you are not getting power to it from the ignition switch. Double check all of your grounds as well.

I replied to your other post, but you must of ran out the door to go get the part...

Tim

 

[Retro10]

when we were using the screw driver on the Selonoid thekey was on the run position...if the selonoid is bad I would still get all the regular dash lights that should come on (Battery, Check Engine, Seatbelt, etc) right? Plus if the Selonoid was bad that wouldnt keep shutting everything down would it?
Thanks

Edit to add: When using the screw driver it was just turning and trying to start, we never got it to start. So just figure out what wire from the Ignition switch goes to the solenoid correct?

 

[Retro10]

Any new Ideas that it could be?

 

[stang22]

So just figure out what wire from the Ignition switch goes to the solenoid correct?

The small wire with the boot on it give the signal to the solenoid to send power to the starter. This is probably a better suited question for jrichker or one of the eletrical guys... but if you jump the solenoid and it turns over then the ignition switch is bad (you replaced it already), the solenoid is not getting the signal from the ignition switch or your solenoid is bad. Check all of your fusible links and all of your fuses also. You probably already did that, but its worth another look.

Maybe jrickher will chime in.

Tim

 

[Retro10]

bumping for Jrickher to see.

 

[jerry beach]

Is the engine turning over at a normal speed or very slowly?

You say the lights in the dash are not working and there are no brake lights. Do the headlights burn brightly? If not check the battery for a dead cell. the parts store will test it for you, but I have seen them test them improperly. Bring it to them out of the car for best results.

 

[Retro10]

Batter is pretty much brand new and is a optima. When using the screwdrive on the solenoid its turning over normally just not starting...when no dash lights is when you turn the key and all the lights light up like airbags, seatblets, check engine, etc...those are whats not coming on...nor does the fuel pump engage...

I am having it towed to the ford dealer on Friday..since I need this car to drive out to KC for the MCA show is Kansas city.
Thanks

 

[rd]

Couple suggestions.

When you replaced the ignition switch, did you adjust it? The switch has slots so that you can slide it up and down the steering column. You want it at a position so that when the rod from the key is in the run position, the switch is making contact with the run position contacts, and the same for the start position. With a tilt wheel this can take a few tries to get it right.

When you have it apart, ie, the column down, and access to the switch, you can check with a meter to see that you are getting power to and from the switch. Obviously, check the power on the wires coming to the switch in the connector.

Also make sure the grounds for the battery to the engine and to the body/chassis are clean and tight. Then go through the wiring with a meter and see where you have power and where not.

 

[Retro10]

I did not check that nor did I know that. I will try that out.

Thanks!!

 

[Retro10]

It the switch easy to adjust...meaning am I going to be able to see if the rod if it is hitting the switch?

Thanks
Rob

 

[ss93cobra]

I recently went through a no-start battle with my brother's 89 GT. Where are you located, perhaps I can help since his is now running.
-he'd bought the car a year ago, it hadn't ran 8 months before that either and he'd been messing with it all this time and finally asked me to help. 3 days later, I had it going and on the road! Not bragging really, just kinda proud if you know what I mean....

 

[Retro10]

I am in Delaware...

I am going to make sure the switch is seated properly and check the module in the kick panel....
what did you do to get it working? I would like to have this fixed before i have it towed to the shop tomorrow, LOL

 

[ss93cobra]

Ah, Delaware is quite a ways away.
Here we go, first, he had really low voltage to the fuel pump shut-off switch, fuel pump relay, fuel pump, and eec relay. Car would crank very slowly as well. Fusible link in the orange-black wire was bad as well as the fusible link for the ignition being very corroded. One is by the left side shock tower in the harness, the other is behind the left shock tower near the take out for the hood light. M.A.F. and I.A.C. and injectors had low voltage and then voltage would disappear when the engine was cranked. Bad ground as well. Once you get the igntion switch slide corrected I'd check everything else as well. Do you have a test light a decent knowledge of the wiring of your car? If so, go to www.veryuseful.com for wiring diagram assistance. If you need to, p.m. me for my phone #, perhaps I can give you some assistance over the phone tonight if you feel like tackling it yourself vs. paying a dealer.

 

[Retro10]

Well it is fixed...I went to a ford dealer...it turned out to be a wire from the main harness that runs to the AC unit as well as a blown fusibal link...nothing 300 bucks couldnt take care of. LOL

Thanks for everyones help!! I really appreciate it!

 

[ss93cobra]

OUCH!
Well, at least its running again.....