When you said police interceptor rotors, are you talking about crown vic police rotors.
No I meant Taurus police interceptor. 2013-2018 have huge brakes. You WILL need 18" rims though. Front rotors are 1.26" thick, rears are about .78".
Will definitely require changes to total brake system.
If this is a route you were going to go, here is how I would build the system:
- Keep your cross-member and modify according to Mathis Performance Handbook 2 for your year range.
- Get 96-04 spindles with hubs
- Front
control arms - your choice. Can re-bush OEM units or get an aftermarket unit. I would recommend Fox length as opposed to SN95 length. I tried SN95 arms and was not able to get a 245 tire to fit right in fender (1990 style) - arms pushed the tire out too far, rims were 0 or +8mm offset.
- Offset rack bushings set to move rack down. This in combination with the above mods does not require a bump steer kit for outer tie rod (this is my current set up).
- If you can find a Taurus Police Interceptor at salvage yard take the rotors (if good still), calipers, caliper mount bracket, pads, flex hose and chassis mount along with 3-6" of hard brake line. Both sides, front and rear. To mock up... install spindles with struts, put rotor on held snug with lug nut and position caliper on rotor aligned to spindle mount points. Now fab a bracket to connect the two. Keeping Taurus flex hose and chassis mount if they fit the space will save trying to adapt lines. The short piece of hard brake line you took is for the threaded fitting to connect into the chassis mount, just need to re-flair brake line with Taurus fitting (this way you know it works, it just came apart from each other). Repeat for all four corners. You have just installed really big 5 lug OEM brakes on your mustang.
- Booster should be SN95 (I think 94-95 fits best, but others can be modified to fit).
- For master cylinder you will want a 1-1/16" bore unit. The Taurus Police Interceptor uses a 1-1/8" bore. I think the 1-1/16" is the closest we can get for the mustang. I believe 96-04 cars with dual piston fronts may have these MC's (I am not 100% confident this statement is correct, but either way you want the 1-1/16" bore unit). I personally went with a MC and proportioning valve from an '01 V6 that was a non-ABS car. I used this prop-valve because non-ABS cars run the brake lines to the rear the same as the Fox cars do... 1 common brake line, split at differential housing to each wheel. Also because '01 V6 cars use dual piston calipers in the front so the front/rear bias should be correct with no need for an aftermarket prop valve. To fit this to my Fox I just needed to re-flair my brake lines at the prop valve with the SN95 fittings.
So what should it cost in parts. Here will be the used part prices: (prices are from a pick-a-part yard I have used in the past - in the US). Prices in USD
Rotor x4 = $15x4 = $60
Caliper, bracket, hose x4 = $25x4 = $100
Pads x8 = $2x8 = $16
Booster, MC, Prop valve = $50
Spindle with hub x2 = $38x2 = $76
So $302 for a big brake kit (13.85" front, 13.58" rear) using OEM parts.
Same parts all sourced from Rockauto:
Rotors = (Raybestos Performance - $40 each rears, $60 each front) = $200
Caliper, bracket, hose = $450 without cores to return, $260 with cores (Raybestos remanufactured)
Pads = $56 (Raybestos Performance)
Booster = $100 (94-04 mustang)
MC =$100 (1-1/16" mustang MC)
Hub x2 = $25x2 = $50
Would still need spindles and prop valve, but total of rest = $956 without caliper cores, $766 with cores.
Both scenarios require some simple fabrication of mount bracket adapters (grinder, welder, drills).
What was not included in pricing is any control arm changes, offset rack bushings, axles, rear gear changes and wheels as 18" wheels will be required.
Many may not like my thoughts on a big brake system and that's okay. This is how I would do it (and may do it in the future).