Retracting the piston in the rear calipers? Help please.

Nobody

Founding Member
May 9, 2000
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Kenmore, WA
I have the tool that turns the piston. I have turned it a lot but it's not moving. I have tried pushing on it while turning, still nothing. How much pressure does this thing need to retract?

Any experiences like this? I'm totally lost.
 
If you are talking about the rear brakes then yes the tool should work, but you can open the bleeder valve a little to take the pressure off. But I just use channel locks on the front brake rotors without any problems. As one of the previous poster said, the piston could be frozen. Let us know the verdict

Peace
 
Mr. Hawver said:
What if you simply used a large c-clamp when pushing the rear pistons in? Could you do some harm to your braking system if you didn't screw them in?

not to mention they probably wont go in... i tried that before i knew there was a specific tool and i could hardly budge the thing.

it takes some elbow grease. You could always extend the torque arm on the tool so it's little easier
 
Well, I guess that would have been nice to know before I replaced my rotors and pads last year. I haven't noticed any adverse effects since the install though.

How could I tell if i did any damage to the braking system? Couls I simply pull the calipers and depress the brake pedal, or would it take a little more labor/money?
 
Just did mine yesterday on my 94 GT. Thought I had a stuck caliper but thanks to the posts in here I found out one of my pins was stuck and caused the inner pad to wear all the way to the metal. So stuck I had to buy a new bracket. Thought I was never going to get those calipers turned in and at first they hardly move at all. I rigged a sort of breaker bar using a deep socket and a long extension and got them to turn in far enough to get everything back together. The tool I used was a universal kit you can rent from Auto Zone for about $35 then get it all back upon return. It's not a tough job using the right tools. No C-clamps on those rears. Good luck.
 
I always spray a little WD-40 on the dust boot to keep it from binding when pushing/screwing the rear pistons in, also make sure the indentations on the pistons are at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position so the inner pad will seat properly, and always lube the caliper slides, and pins with Silglyde or similar caliper/brake lube, and I always advise my customers to use the parking brake to keep the cables and rear calipers from seizing up it also keeps the rears adjusted:nice:
 
I rigged a sort of breaker bar using a deep socket and a long extension and got them to turn in far enough to get everything back together. The tool I used was a universal kit you can rent from Auto Zone for about $35 then get it all back upon return. It's not a tough job using the right tools.

Just did a set on a 95GT today. I couldn't get those things to turn for the life of me. This tool from AutoZone did it in no time. Thanks.