criticman said:
The ground idea makes sense - a friend of mine suggested that as well. He also said to remove any corrosion from the battery terminals. I did upgrade my alternator JUST before the blower install, but I also definately got on it without any issues after the alternator was installed (130amp PA-Perf.) plus I also upgraded the power wire.
What grounds need to be checked and how does one check them?
So that's one idea...anyone have more? Or any thoughts on whether or not aleborjas' idea will fix it?
Voltage drop testing of grounds.
A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See
http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help
Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across a connection or wire. Adding length to the test leads may be required, and does not affect the accuracy of the test. Use 18-20 gauge wire for the test leads if you have to lengthen them.
1.) Most grounds use the negative battery post as their starting point.
2.) The voltage will be small if the ground is good: less voltage drop = better connection.
3.) Be sure that the power to the circuit is on, and the circuit is being used in its normal manner. For instance, if it is a light circuit, the lights on that circuit should be powered on.
4.) To measure grounds, place one DVM lead on the battery negative post and the other on the wire or connector that goes to ground. Place the other DVM lead on the wire or connection you want to test.
5.) Read the voltage drop: Light duty circuits (1-5 amps) should show .1-.25 volts. Medium duty circuits (6-25 amps) should show .25-.5 volts. Heavy duty circuits (26 amps up) should show .5-.75 volt drop. A voltage drop lower that spec is always acceptable.