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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Revamping the Stang

  • Thread starter Thread starter MadHandle8169
  • Start date Start date Apr 29, 2005
M

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
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0
Brick, NJ
Apr 29, 2005
#1
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #1
My car has 112,000 miles on it and the motor and tranny are still going pretty strong(knock on wood), however there are some squeeks and rattles that I want to get taken care of. The car also rides a little rough. What things can be done to take this 10 year old car and modernize it a bit to ride better.

Basically, what suspension stuff should I do? I got front brakes a couple months ago. I think I want to go with sub-frames welded in and what else. I am pretty much clueless when it comes to suspension. So help me out here. Thanks!
 
M

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
0
0
Brick, NJ
Apr 29, 2005
#2
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #2
ANYONE?

 

Car Nut

Founding Member
Jul 6, 2000
1,176
1
37
Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)
Apr 29, 2005
#3
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #3
Here is the list of stuff I've got (but you could choose other brands to lessen the price):

H&R Race springs w/pinion snubber
Bilstein Shocks/Struts
Poly Spring Isolators
MM Poly Endlinks
MM Aluminum Rack Bushings (center drilled)
New quad shocks
MM C/C plates
Poly swaybar bushings
Quality alignment

Soon:
MM K member brace
MM Steering Shaft Assembly
FRPP Front A-arms upgrade
MM Torque Arm

FYI: MM is Maximum Motorsports


A good place to start is to go with decent springs/shocks/struts, your ride will improve greatly. If you lower more than 2 inches, you may need to get bumpsteer stuff (more $$$). I have zero bumpsteer with my setup. Tokico shocks/struts and Eibach Pro-Kit springs are very popular here and affordable.

I couldn't be happier with my setup. It is a bit agressive, but fine for a daily driver. Brake dive is gone and it gives great feedback in fast tight turns. A total blast in the twisties.
 

Car Nut

Founding Member
Jul 6, 2000
1,176
1
37
Snellville, Georgia (Atlanta area)
Apr 29, 2005
#4
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #4
Oh yeah:

Get subs ASAP!!! Subs will help remove many squeaks, as mine sure did. Plus, subs will improve handling and ride quality a decent amount.

I wouldn't troubleshoot sqeaks until the subs are done.

Subs should only be welded in. Don't bother with bolt on subs.
 

Nik_95Cobra

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2002
1,677
1
37
Tempe, Arizona
Apr 29, 2005
#5
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #5
Well what I run rides a ton better than it did stock. Mine's not the most elaborate or the most agressive I just wanted it to be somewhat in the middle and have an allaround decent suspension. I did the Eibach Pro-kit springs, AGX Adjustable shocks, Maximum Motorsport RLCA's, Front Tie Bar, Weld In Global West Tubular Subs with seat brace, and it has the stock cobra sways. It's very very well manared on the street, and still has the ability to handle like a mofo even with the 315 dr's. Next up suspensionwise will be some UCA's and a tubular K setup then I think I'll be done unless I decide to do a rollbar.
 
M

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
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0
Brick, NJ
Apr 29, 2005
#6
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #6
Alright thanks for all the advice. I'll look into all the parts and the prices.

One more question though. I know that this will improve my car in the twisties but does it improve your 1/4 mile time? I would figure mostly launching capabilities. Which improves the 60ft. which will in turn improve the 1/4 time.
 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member
Feb 16, 2001
6,892
8
128
N.H.
Apr 29, 2005
#7
  • Apr 29, 2005
  • #7
Another option depending on the almighty dollar available, is to go take-off shocks/struts...these are OEM pcs with nil for milage so to say....get a set of springs in the classifieds, add some subs and it should help..and not alot of $$$...
With that kinda milage Im sure the rubber bushings all around are pretty much gonzo...U/L control arms can be fairly cheap and you get new bushings all around plus the bene of the control arms...
 

yellowstang1994

New Member
Sep 9, 2004
338
0
0
Apr 30, 2005
#8
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #8
Just a note: If you are thinking about buying a k-member brace at all just be aware that we arleady have a 2 point brace stock from the factory from 94+ so the only upgrade is the Maximum Motorsports 4 point brace. The reason I am saying this is that Steeda sells a 2 point brace known as the G-brace for like $40 and on their website they say it's for 86-04 mustangs. But they forgot to mention that it was a factory option on 94+ stangs. Just thought i'd let you know.
 
M

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
0
0
Brick, NJ
Apr 30, 2005
#9
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #9
Thanks for the heads up!
 

91LX_5L

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
1,943
0
36
British Columbia
Apr 30, 2005
#10
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #10
To make your car ride better get some new Shocks/Struts. That should make a massive diffrence. Do you have lowering springs, make sure there not chopped, if it rides too firm then get slightly taller springs like the Eibach Pros which are awesome there 1.5" drop all around.
 

BDAWK2002

New Member
Apr 28, 2005
139
0
0
Old Bridge N.J.
Apr 30, 2005
#11
  • Apr 30, 2005
  • #11
When my 95 GT hit 90000 I installed Steeda sport springs,Steeda C/C plates,BBK upper & lower control arms kit and new struts,shocks and quads.The shocks and struts were just basic Blisteins from 5.0 resto.I also replaced every bushing I could get out with polly ones.I was on a tight budget and I drive my car 85 miles a day to work so I didnt want to get to crazy with the suspension just to watch the parts wear out.But these mods work great.The car handles and feels a thousand times better than stock.The springs didnt lower the car that much maybe just enough to notice but they soak up bumps pretty good.I got all the parts from 5.0 resto and Steeda online.Everything cost like a $1000.
 
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