Hey guys, just wondering, the two torx bolts on the calipers, are those the only bolts I need to take off to get the rotor off? Or do I need to take off the bolts on the strut and steering parts? Thanks
The torque bolts hold the caliper on. Take those off. Then pull the dust cap, cotter pin and nut off. Pull off rotor. Don't let the bearings fall out and get lost.
Thanks. I have new bearings and grease. Quick question, I took the two caliper bolts off but the caliper wont come off, if tried prying it with a screwdriver and it just wont move at all, itll swing back and forth though. Dont I compress the piston after I take the caliper off? If not how do I get it off?
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
put a screwdriver between the back of the rotor and pad and push the piston in some you just have a land on the outside of the rotor
put a screwdriver between the back of the rotor and pad and push the piston in some you just have a land on the outside of the rotor
Thanks that worked.
Sorry for all the questions but ive been searching for like a half hour and every question I have I cant find it.
How do I get the wheel bearings out? The front ones slide out, but the ones in the back do they come out the back? Do I have to take that plastic seal thing off? Doesnt seem like its coming off, arggggh.
nvm, I guess I dont need to take out the old ones since i got new ones and a seal. Thanks for the help guys
did you ever get around to running your car at the track with the p heads??
nope, sold the slicks, I may head out there in a month or so with new tires. Theyll still be street radials but i'll see what I can do. Come tax return im probably gonna find a used typhoon intake.
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
from the outside of the rotor you need to use a long punch ot screwdriver and punch the bearing out the back side and it should knock the seal out at the same time...you do have new seals right.
bynummustang
Seen my other Jackstand?
Just be careful you don't nic the walls. When you put the seal in, it helps to have the right tool, if not you have to "walk" it on in there.
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
yea we have a seal driver kit....but anything flat and bigger than the seal will work. I sometimes just use a small hammer and go around the outside a few times tapping it lightly
Yea I taped it lightley with a mallet. I got all new bearings, seals, rotors, and pads. It was bout time for a brake job, first time I ever did one on a car. It was real simple.
Attachments
Can someone tell me why Im having trouble selling this car for 4500? Its got a rebuilt engine, TONS of new parts (brakes, optima battery, wiper blades, tires, headlights, radiator, hoses, shocks, the list goes on) I've been trying to sell it for like 4, 5 months now, no luck at all, havent even had someone come look at it yet.
NKau
Founding Member
I think your avatar says it all Nick.
Yeah, that certainly can't help your cause.
That being said, it does look really nice in pics, but pictures from 20 ft. away never really tell the whole story. How is the paint/interior on the car?
The paint looks great, not perfect, its a 15 year old car, but the car looks awesome from like 3 feet away. You can start to notice some imperfections when you start getting up close.
The interior is perfect, black, and vinyl, driver seat needs to be recovered thats all.
The interior is perfect, black, and vinyl, driver seat needs to be recovered thats all.
795.0pacecar
lover of pudgy polygamists
You remembered to pack the bearings right?
Yes.
And im trying to sell it cause I just want a normal automatic car, not really into goin fast anymore, and for school and work my car is just not convenient, ill go through 15 bucks a day in gas, when I go to class and work, im always scrambling around looking gas money.
ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
id kill for your hatch..you may have better luck in spring for selling it...bring it up to ohio and you could sell that in a weekend for that price around me.
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