Royal Purple...really worth it?

If you run it, just stick with the 5W-20. I ran it in my car and, to be perfectly honest, I hated it. It felt way too thin for my likes, but maybe it was just me. I know there's about 1230988123908123 other people using it everyday in their cars, but not me. I stick with Motorcraft Synth. Blend 5W-20, seems that my car has run best with this in it.

When I had the RP in the car, it just felt like a horrid metal-on-metal feeling everytime I accelerated hard. Needless to say, I got that stuff outta there before the 3000 miles were up.

But don't let 1 person scare you away, you can always try it. I just don't like the price of it

I have Royal Purple 5W-30 in my car, feels great, no problems. It's definitely better than Mobil 1 from the "indepdent" tests that I read on though I don't think it's as good as Red Line which I used to have for the last few oil changes. Paid $5.99/quart and don't think the price is bad for synethetic oil that can last upwards of 5,000+ miles.

IMO synthetic oil is great. If you are the type of person that will change it every 3k though I would not recomend you run it for the price.

synthetics have better charateristics at cold, free up hp, don't degrade as fast, dont need to change as often but some people still think you do for some odd reason.

I run Mobil 1 full synth. and change every 5-6k and the oil still looks alright.

its not like it costs a fortune, but i cant see how you can really notice a diff from changing oil. i put in rp 5w-30 and its been running great, just as good as it did before. just the peace of mind of having good quality synthetic stuff is worth the extra 2 bux a quart. i mean, how much do we all spend on these damn expensive bolt ons that barely do anything! i wish i could stop myself, but i cant, so whatever

I have ran Mobil 1 since the very first oil change on my car. I just pulled it apart to do a forged rebuild and even the bearings are still like new. They even still have the markings on them that are printed onthe bearing surface.

The cylinder walls, and all the wear surfaces all look like new. No wear at all.

I personally think RP has been more hype that factual. When I first became an Amsoil Dealer and heard about RP, I asked some of the older Dealers if they ever heard of it. They said it was a small synthetic company and many petroleum oils performed better. RP has done a lot of marketing in the performance community, so now their name is widely known in that group. They do have two different lines. The usual line you commonly see is a blend, unless they have changed it (it has been a few years since I looked into them and how they compared). Their Racing line was much more expensive and was a full PAO synthetic. Last year there was an article about synthetics in MM&FF and the RP rep was quoted as saying all synthetics start out from crude. This is false, and leads me to believe that RP is now a Group III hydrocracked petroleum oil that the API considers a synthetic and what most of the mainline synthetics have switched to.

There are three different "synthetics" out there, but really no one advertises which one they are. This is based on the Groups of oils the API has designated. Groups I and II are petroleum, II being the common petroleum we use most today. Group III is a petroleum but even more refined (hydrocracked) and falls within certain specs that the API said can be called a synthetic. Castrol Syntec was the first to use this and Mobil lost a lawsuit over it. Since then, nearly all synthetics have gone to a Group III oil falling within the certain specs required at one level or another. Group IV consists of all PAO oils, which currently include most of the Amsoil lines, Mobil 1, and RP's racing oil, if the rep was wrong in that article about their oil being from crude (or that's how I understood it). Group V is considered "everything else" but usually consists of Ester based oils. Redline falls into this group and is an excellent race oil because of it. Both Amsoil and Mobil were Ester based back in the 70s when they came out, but Esters have the tendency to want to retain moisture and the reason both companies switched to a PAO base. Redline needs additional additives to address this issue. Mobil uses additives to enhance their oil and Amsoil actually uses Esters as additives to get the best of both worlds, a more costly approach, but one they believe in to meet the extended intervals they promote. The Amsoil XL line of oil is actually a Group III but uses a higher grade of base stock than what many others use and one reason why this lower tier oil performs well when compared. The 5W-20 they have is in the XL line and has done well in testing. One of the Direct Jobbers I work with did some oil analysis in his Ford and after, I believe, 8000 miles the oil was still usable and he did gain a few extra MPG when comparing it to our 5W-30.

Check the specs between the oils, this will give you some idea of the differences. I'm hoping Amsoil will show some RP comparisons in the future. I've gotten some info in the past, and done my own spec comparisons, but hope it will one day show on some of the automotive literature they have. Amsoil recently started showing them in their Motorcycle Oil testing and comparison lists and RP didn't perform as well as many of the oils tested. They had tested 20-25 different oils and I believe there was around three times the wear when comparing their Motorcycle Oil to the Amsoil Motorcycle Oil.

As for price, you're right about it just costing a little more, but as you said, with most of us, it shouldn't matter that much. Also consider how much the prices for oil has gone up over the past year or two. I'm seeing petroleum oils hitting the $3 per quart range and higher. Synthetic is around twice the cost, but with some of these oils you can easily go twice the distance (check if it is warranted for this though) making the actual cost the same, or less.

My personal choice, if I wasn't using Amsoil, I would probably use Mobil 1.

DO NOT change to any synthetic oil if you have been using normal oil and have a high mileage car. you will burn through it like crazy and it could ruin your seals. just a heads up.

Switching to AmsOil here shortly...just going through the free dealer oil changes first

synthetic oil would be fine. run 5w-30 for the summer. royal purple and mobil 1 are great companies

hognutz said:

IMO synthetic oil is great. If you are the type of person that will change it every 3k though I would not recomend you run it for the price.

synthetics have better charateristics at cold, free up hp, don't degrade as fast, dont need to change as often but some people still think you do for some odd reason.

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you don't have to change the oil but you HAVE TO CHANGE THE FILTER EVERY 5K.. extended intervals on synth is no problem as long as you change the filter every 5k or so.. even amsoil's website agrees with me on this.

oil filters left on for long intervals clog and then you end up with unfiltered oil runnign thru your motor, needless to say this is more than bad it's awfull

Mobile 1 5-30 changed once a year with a filter change at 6 months. I use approx 1.5 qts of make up oil in that year.
There is zero sludge/contamination in the motor and the crosshatching is still in the cylinders after 11 years and 90,000 hard miles, 50,000 of them being supercharged. (inspected during ported head installation).

Dwayne

46gtsblown said:

Mobile 1 5-30 changed once a year with a filter change at 6 months. I use approx 1.5 qts of make up oil in that year.
There is zero sludge/contamination in the motor and the crosshatching is still in the cylinders after 11 years and 90,000 hard miles, 50,000 of them being supercharged. (inspected during ported head installation).

Dwayne

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a good quality synth can do that.. as long as you swap the filter out like your doing

If I did not get free oil and filters because of my job I would use amsoil and go with a one year oil change swaping the filter out every 5k. so I would go thru three filters.

but because I get free oil and filters I chenge it every 3k or whenever I am bored and it's slow.. whatever comes first.

96SLPGT said:

DO NOT change to any synthetic oil if you have been using normal oil and have a high mileage car. you will burn through it like crazy and it could ruin your seals. just a heads up.

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I have been running only motorcraft 5w-30 in my car. When motorcraft switched to partialy syntheic I could tell a diffrence in the performance, it seemed to rev out alot smoother. My car has 94,000 miles on it, so would it hurt to switch to royal purple or a full syntheic?

psh

I wish I had a 6 year old car with 45k on it, my 2004 GT 40th ann already has 239,000, I dont know why, I must have driven the crap out of it without realizing it.. I only commut 60miles a day from and to work daily... It must be all that weekend partying huh? As far as the question. I always prefer teh real ****.. just like breast, Fake may look better but there i sjust something about the real thing baby.. Mmmm (feeling alward)


QUOTE=Unreal281]got a 2000 gt 5 spd......roughly 45,000 on the clock. I'm currently using valvonline durablend 5w20....is royal purple really worth it for me? all of my mods are listed below....any feedback helps...

will it burn easily?

is it risky to run full synthetic like that?

what weight should i run?

thanx guys:SNSign:[/QUOTE]

gtstangau said:

I have been running only motorcraft 5w-30 in my car. When motorcraft switched to partialy syntheic I could tell a diffrence in the performance, it seemed to rev out alot smoother. My car has 94,000 miles on it, so would it hurt to switch to royal purple or a full syntheic?

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My GT has 107k on it and I have switched back and forth to syntheic, to
blends and back to dino many times and also tried different weights with no
problems at all. Usually every 3000 miles or so. I did try some RP 10w-30
once and ran it for 3000 miles, it seemed to make my engine noisey, like a
ticking noise esspecialy at start up, so I dont use it any more. The last couple of times I also have been running the motorcraft 5w-30 and like it
a lot, I plan on using it on my next change. My car has never leaked a drop of oil, or had any kind of engine problem what so ever.

Not to change the subject, but who has had success with the royal purple atf? Did it help any with the gear grind problem?

96SLPGT said:

DO NOT change to any synthetic oil if you have been using normal oil and have a high mileage car. you will burn through it like crazy and it could ruin your seals. just a heads up.

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Damnit. Are you serious? I want to change over to Mobil 1. Some guy at the oil change place also recommended that I not change. Also unless my motor is forged then it doesn't matter? Why would switching over screw up my motor? I have almost 45,000 on the clock. Could I also put 50% regular and 50% synthetic?

I wouldn't have a problem switching at 45k miles. In fact I probably would, but I'm at 100k so no dice.