ROYAL PURPLE?? WHO USES IT

bluevenom867 said:
Depends alot on the condition of the motor,an older motor you should change the oil more often and also use a good rated filter.A new motor (after its broken in) put in a good clean syn. oil and have a high flowing filter.K&N have the highest flow of regular type filters and thats why there better IMO.The best filters for a clean engine though, is a metal mesh filter (usualy stainless steel),they will flow more than any canister type filter and are reusable.

Oh,and many will run very thin oil,not me.

20W-50

If its colder drop down to 10W-40,10W-30,etc. but here I wouldnt run any thinner.


Why such a thick oil. Go to www.BOBISTHEOILGUY.com I think 10W-30 is even a little thick on start up 5W-30 would be the same an the 10W-30 when hot but the 5W-30 will get every where it needs to get alot faster than the 10W when you start it.
 
think of it like drinking a milkshake from Mcdonalds through a straw= 20W-50 and your oil pump. Drinking some OJ through a straw= 5W-30 what will get to your mouth faster and cool the burn from some hot sauce.


If that makes sence or not I don't know but that is how I look at oil
 
Yes,though that is true it is pumped faster,the thicker oil is retianed better in the bearings after the motor is shut off.Also,when it starts getting hot you want that extra protection,and also I noticed that the thicker oil will stay much more stabil with there pressure while a thinner oil will fall off on pressure.

Oh,and Roland69,with the comparison of milkshakes and OJ.Once the MS is in your mouth it is cooler and stays there loger,there by reliefing you of the buring longer :rolleyes:

Oh,and I really dont have to worry about oiling on our motor...3qt. pressurized reserve can for start up and big wheelies (cause the oil can flow back and reveal the pick-up) and a Titan 1100 series Sportsman pump with dual -10AN feeds.Also,we run a vacuum pump whitch helps increase drain back flow (oil from the top of the motor back into the pan) because it removes the pressure differentile between the lifter curtian.

Also,if your thinking of power producting,then I guess the thicker oil would have a harder time getting past any gaskets/seals and rings.But its mainly for bearing protection,not power.This about the only reason I would run thin oil,is if I could rebuild the motor after every race so I could get 5hp more.

Oh,and I forgot to add the thicker oil also worked better with our Crane hyd. rollers.

And you know the oil cools your valve springs,right?Im thinking of building a valve spring sprayer system too.And the thicker oil will remain on the springs longer and should be better for cooling.

But I see your points,on a near stock car the thinner oil is better.Unless you have alot of milage,then I would run the thicker stuff.
 
Roland69 said:
I ran 20W-50 once in my car but I noticed a power loss and lower oil pressure and I know the oil flow was way slower cause that stuff is like running pure lucas.

Pure Lucas is alot thicker than 20W-50.

We put some of that Stop-smoke stuff in an old Jeep we had (and it did work,btw) it was like 75W-120 gear oil in my Lightning diff,LOL.
 
I gather that it is good stuff then? What the heck iv'e never been a fan of synthetic oil, always used regular conventional oil, and my 86 got 220k and was still kicking when I sold it. Was leaking like a sith though.
This car however does have low mileage on it (27000) and I want it to last as well. So i'll run it every other change. My mods are next to nothing, but it is driven like a MUSTANG is supposed to be driven.
Thanks for the input.
 
Synthetic is better than dino oil. I don't know if I would buy into the marketing of more horsepower. Any of the major brands will be fine. I don't run it in my engine because I already have the "High performance oil leak option" and I don't need to make it any worse.... I have some RP in the transmission and rear diff though.

You can try it, if you notice more leaks than switch back to conventional oil.