runing lean bank 2 after cpu replacement

I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but do you have the plug wires correct.

My buddy, who shall remain nameless, was having a problem with his car "not feeling all there" and he couldn't figure it out. It didn't really sound like it was missing either, but when we checked it out...the plug wires were on wrong.

I think i really know the problem! Take the cover off the MAF and clean the two little wires, then reset the ECU. You Caqnt have ANY SPEC OF DIRT OR CARBON!!!! If it isnt our wires, i REALLY think this is your problem

Swap the injector with another one and see if it is the injector or wiring.
Just a thought before you buy another set.

Before pulling it all apart... Do a search for "Cylinder Balance Test". jrichker has a checklist proceedure for running that test. If you've got a bad injector, it will you tell you.

Edit: BTW... if you do identify a bad injector, you can replace just THAT injector. You don't need a whole new set.

You definetly had the right idea about the lean condition that a dead injector would cause. Just think of it like the "corn theory." What goes in and doesn't get used comes out the same. I agree with the post above mine to swap a known good injector for that one and make sure it's not an electrical issue. Go from there and good luck.

As requested...

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.