runnin lean

[JAXXX]

I have a 95 gt 5 speed the car has been running hot and idles a tiny bit rough but not too bad and when i put my snap on scanner on it it gives code 181 and 189 wich is bank 1 and 2 lean i have changed my temp sensor thermostat and radiator cap and both 02 sensors mostly just cuz i wanted to i also rebuilt my injectors when i did the intakes and my timing is set at iether 10 or 12 btc i dont quite remember. here is my combo

#king cobra clutch
#msd billet distributor
#ford explorer lower intake
#gt40 upper intake
#msdwires
#msd coil
#feul filter 2 years ago
# feul pump 1 year ago
im kind of wondering if i need a adjustable feul pressure regulator or anything any assistance is much appreciated as i cant diagnose to save my life

 

[iwashmycar]

fuel filter?

 

[JAXXX]

forgot to add

i forgot to say that its also pinging pretty bad when it gets hot as well and since i did the intake swap i do think it may have even lost power. has any1 done an intake swap on a staock motor and did you have to mess with with fuel pressure or anything????

 

[HISSIN50]

The 94-95 GT Ping-thing rears its head again. You will find myriad folks with similar issues. Things to check (listed, even though you might have done them):
MAF wire cleanliness, IAT cleanliness, ECT calibration (ECT, not the gauge's sending unit), and for your case, vacuum leaks.

I betcha have a vac leak going on. That would account for a little leanness and a slightly rough idle.

Let us know if the issue gets worse after you have driven for awhile or it's real hot outside (but engine temps are not higher than normal).

If you don't already have a real temp gauge, it's a good idea. You can add manual fan switches if you desire. In stock form, the low speed fan doesnt kick on till 208*F, which is a bit toasty, especially if someone is already having pinging issues.

Some random thoughts. Good luck.

 

[LordMustangGT]

I also hear 94-95 ECU don't like Modding at all, make sure you got a good tune, or swap to a Fox model ECU.

 

[JAXXX]

thanx

thanx for the good info guys.

It pings when its hotter outside and engine temp is high or when its warmer and i turn on ac ittl get so hot ac wont work anymore i havent let the car overheat though

Does anyone have a similar combo and had to mess with feul pressure by chance??

 

[HISSIN50]

There's little point to a FPR for a situation like this. The T4 processor will shorten pulsewidth to get back to stoich.
A vac leak only can make the issue worse (unmetered air = leanness).

The overall issue is the factory GT tune. THere's too much spark and too little fuel. You can try to work around the issue a bit. Getting the cooling fan on earlier does help (low isnt on till 208, high 226*F). Ensuring the cooling system is up to par helps.
Trying to ensure the MAF is spot-on is big. The load-based processor relies heavily upon it's function. If it's off by even a hair, the car can be more prone to pinging than otherwise.
Try to keep the inlet tract cool.

Otherwise, most folks get rid of the issue with a custom tune/self tune or with aftermarket heads (which generally necessitate a tune anyhow).

For simple fixes: higher octane fuel and less timing is going to be the best you can do. Couple that with lowering operating temps as much as you can, and you should be doing alright.

Good luck.

 

[JAXXX]

hmm

how bout if i got a 93 computer and stuck it in im in school so i need ta do this on the cheap ill look hard for a vacume leak as well but if yall think replacing the computer will help --- wich i wanted to do anyhow for the added power it gives ill go ahead n get one

btw HISSIN50 youv been a great help thanx alot

 

[HISSIN50]

how bout if i got a 93 computer and stuck it in im in school so i need ta do this on the cheap ill look hard for a vacume leak as well but if yall think replacing the computer will help --- wich i wanted to do anyhow for the added power it gives ill go ahead n get one

btw HISSIN50 youv been a great help thanx alot

IMHO you are better off using your processor. Here's the deal. PIH type kits are expensive (they are the kits for swapping from a 94-95 puter to a fox's A9L).
If you piece it together on your own, you need a puter, some rewiring, a fan controller, BAP sensor, and so on. This adds up cost-wise. And then if bigger mods are done down the line, a tune is still needed. But now you have a boogered up wiring harness and an inferior, slower computer processor. For the same money, you could have your existing puter chipped (even if the tune is to mimic that of an A9L, which is what you'd get with a fox swap).

More than a few folks have done the PIH-style swap and been unhappy (this is one reason you see the kits floating around in the classifieds). Then magazines keep hyping the swap as if it is the end-all great fix. It was back in 1995 but in this day and age, nope.

I'd really chip what you have (for the same rough cash outlay, unless someone is giving away a conversion kit) or self-tune. The latter will likely save you money in the future with your modification plans but can make you really crazy as you learn.

Good luck.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I also hear 94-95 ECU don't like Modding at all, make sure you got a good tune, or swap to a Fox model ECU.

Mine seems perfectly happy with the mods in my sig. Hearing and first hand experience are two different things. Some say cams with a LSA of 110° or lower will cause headaches, others say 112°, but mine is problem free with the 112°, and the original poster didn't mention anything about a cam in his mods, so I'm 100% sure that's not the issue in his case. The PIH swap IMO isn't worth it. You end up with another stock computer as JT pointed out, with another sub-optimal factory tune, and still need additional parts to complete the swap. If it was an auto car, he'd also need a trans controller in addition to the fan controller and BAP sensor. Too much work and too much money for too little return on the investment.

JAXXX, when you say it's been running hot, do you know what the temp on the car is? The factory gauge is typically inaccurate, so a good aftermarket gauge would give you a true idea of what's going on. Have you ever flushed the cooling system, or know if it had been done in the past? It's possible there's blocked passages in the radiator, limiting its surface area and ability to cool. For the lean issue, how new exactly are the O2 sensors? Did you reset the EEC after swapping the new sensors in? You could also pick up some carb cleaner and give it some sprays around vacuum lines, intake gaskets, etc. to see if the idle speed increases at all. Any increase would indicate a leak at wherever you sprayed, which could also be a problem. How does your fuel pressure look?

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Also, I forgot to add in my previous post, have you verified the fan works? You should be able to tell a difference between low and high speeds. If you turn the AC on max, the high speed fan will turn on. You can also verify the function of both speeds by either applying power to pin 14 of the CCRM to turn the low speed fan on, or grounding pin 17 to turn on the high speed.

 

[JAXXX]

just to be clear

So just to be clear with my combo there is no need to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator at this point?? i am flowing more air now