Running both lean and rich with O2 heat codes

[Danceswithfire5]

Just bought my little ‘97 and she’s craving car candy. Previous owners replaced the MAF, TPS, and idle control sensors with Amazon parts (so only so much faith in those). They also replaced with oreillys parts the fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, control arms, rack and pinion, shocks, sway bar, ball joints, hubs, fuel pump, front brakes (but not the pads), and distributor. I believe they also replaced or repaired some portion of the intake manifold and gaskets beneath it based off photos I was shown prior to purchase. It also has a PCV valve and grommet that I purchased from advanced that they installed for me prior to purchase. She drove great for about two days and then stalled at a red light. Little shudder and then just cut out with the battery light popping on. She started right back up after and then momentarily acted like she wasn’t getting gas about 5 min later.
Currently has the following codes:
P0155
P0135
P1121
P0175
P0174
Best troubleshooting methods? I bought a can of carb cleaner to look for a leak but I read that can cause fires and I’d rather not do that. Mostly work on my own cars but also open to coughing up mechanic money.

 

[apple99Mustangdude]

Just bought my little ‘97 and she’s craving car candy. Previous owners replaced the MAF, TPS, and idle control sensors with Amazon parts (so only so much faith in those). They also replaced with oreillys parts the fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, control arms, rack and pinion, shocks, sway bar, ball joints, hubs, fuel pump, front brakes (but not the pads), and distributor. I believe they also replaced or repaired some portion of the intake manifold and gaskets beneath it based off photos I was shown prior to purchase. It also has a PCV valve and grommet that I purchased from advanced that they installed for me prior to purchase. She drove great for about two days and then stalled at a red light. Little shudder and then just cut out with the battery light popping on. She started right back up after and then momentarily acted like she wasn’t getting gas about 5 min later.
Currently has the following codes:
P0155
P0135
P1121
P0175
P0174
Best troubleshooting methods? I bought a can of carb cleaner to look for a leak but I read that can cause fires and I’d rather not do that. Mostly work on my own cars but also open to coughing up mechanic money.

Just bought my little ‘97 and she’s craving car candy. Previous owners replaced the MAF, TPS, and idle control sensors with Amazon parts (so only so much faith in those). They also replaced with oreillys parts the fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, control arms, rack and pinion, shocks, sway bar, ball joints, hubs, fuel pump, front brakes (but not the pads), and distributor. I believe they also replaced or repaired some portion of the intake manifold and gaskets beneath it based off photos I was shown prior to purchase. It also has a PCV valve and grommet that I purchased from advanced that they installed for me prior to purchase. She drove great for about two days and then stalled at a red light. Little shudder and then just cut out with the battery light popping on. She started right back up after and then momentarily acted like she wasn’t getting gas about 5 min later.
Currently has the following codes:
P0155
P0135
P1121
P0175
P0174
Best troubleshooting methods? I bought a can of carb cleaner to look for a leak but I read that can cause fires and I’d rather not do that. Mostly work on my own cars but also open to coughing up mechanic money.

I am just an average DIY'er, not an expert, but I watch tons of Scotty Kilmer video's (long time mechanic as his dad was before him, Car Wizard, etc- I have read that MAF sensors are one of the parts that you need to go OEM on, double check that online - that often aftermarket ones do not work properly, even when new. I have been trying to find out where to buy really good quality parts on my 99 Mustang six, by beloved daily driver. I would much rather pay perhaps to have a starter or alternator rebuilt as in the old days, then to have the original one last forever, and the have the next ones go out every few months or a year or so - had bad problems with NAPA decades ago, 83 Plymouth Reliant, with 2.2 - original starter lasted over 100K, NAPA-crappa lasted a few months. Mechanic would say - well, it is covered under warranty - but I had to pay for labor, AND you never knew where you would break down - it could be in a deadly situation, like 115 degree heat - or in my parents case, picking up the dog from surgery, on a hot day, to take her home and take care of her -