So my stang is running pretty warm, more so than I would like it to be. I'm thinking of getting a 180 or 160 thermostat. Also my car seems to be running rich and I can't figure out why it is. I claned the MAF and that didn't help. Any ideas?
Running Hot and Rich Help
- Thread starter TSWG00
- Start date
More info will help. What temps are you seeing? Is it only at speed or while stationary, etc etc.
What makes you think you are running rich?
a 160* stat is not an answer. FIx the issue instead, if there is one. it could be the fan or any myriad of issues.
good luck.
What makes you think you are running rich?
a 160* stat is not an answer. FIx the issue instead, if there is one. it could be the fan or any myriad of issues.
good luck.
Well its usualy at lower speeds like from 45mph down it goes to the a in normal then the fan kicks on and it goes down to the m then back up to the a etc. As for it running rich well The smell of the exhaust and my fuel milage tells me its running rich.
Uggh, gonna have to wait for folks with stock gauges to answer. I have no idea what letters the car runs at.
Strange that it runs hotter at lower speeds, yet the fan sounds like it is working. Gonna have to think on that. FWIW, the low speed fan does not come on till ~210*F.
I would pull the codes to see if anything is stored (even if the CEL is not on). That might help with the rich part.
Good luck.
Strange that it runs hotter at lower speeds, yet the fan sounds like it is working. Gonna have to think on that. FWIW, the low speed fan does not come on till ~210*F.
I would pull the codes to see if anything is stored (even if the CEL is not on). That might help with the rich part.
Good luck.
as we all know those cluster gauges aint worth a lick, u really need a reliable source of temp, whether its a mechanical temp gauge or a scan tool. as far as the rich goes, whats the fuel pressure now, how do the plugs look, are they fouled out. is there a vacuum leak creating a lean condition and the computer is compensating by dumping fuel.
Well I have not pluged the hole in my H-pipe where the air injection tube would go. But I didn't think that would make a difference if it was pluged or not. Guess I'll try to run the codes. I have to fix my e-Break aswell darn cable snaped the oher day. So many things to do so little money lol
So yesterday, after I had just started up the car. When going up a hill the car stalled and was running really bad missing and back fireing. The whole works. I don't notice it going down hill or on a flat area, just up hill. I have no clue what my fuel pressure is. And it only seems to happen when its cold and has not warmed up. I'm going to see of my local auto parts store will run the codes for me for free. Then I'll have a better understanding of what is going on with it running so crappy right now. I do have a miss and I need to figure where that is coming from. Any one know where to get inslated spark plug wire pullers? Well thanks for all your help I'll post again when I get the codes read.
The parts store should have insulated plug wire pullers.
When doing codes, a Cylinder balance test will check each cylinder for an RPM drop (this test is not designed for testing spark miss, but it turns out that it kind of works that way).
But you have to be doing the test while the car runs like poo.
Good luck.
When doing codes, a Cylinder balance test will check each cylinder for an RPM drop (this test is not designed for testing spark miss, but it turns out that it kind of works that way).
But you have to be doing the test while the car runs like poo.
Good luck.
Cool thanks. I'm thinking about buying an Autoxray 5000 scan tool. Since my car is always throwing the CI lol. I figure it will save me in the long run. Pretty much all happend when I got my new Exhaust and it has just gone down hill from there blah. Oh well I'll get to the bottom of it
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
TSWG00 said:
Waste of money. A paperclip can tell you the same thing that the scantool can.
Scott
mo_dingo said:
And how do you go about doing that? What would that tell you and how do you decipher what it is saying?
So today I noticed whta when I just tap the throttle, when it has just been started. The RPM's will drop and it will sound like it is going to die but then the RPM's bounce back up to like 1000 to 1500. So any ideas as to why its doing that when I just tap the throttle. After it has been running for like a few mins it doens't do it anymore. Humm...Code reader here I come lol. This is just getting annoying because it has been doing this for a while and has been running rich since I took of the Stock H-Pipe and put on the off-road H-pipe. GRRR 
To pull codes, an internet search will help.
www.Fordfuelinjection.com has a run down on pulling them too, IIRC.
Good luck.
www.Fordfuelinjection.com has a run down on pulling them too, IIRC.
Good luck.
FORCED2DV8
New Member
PLug your hole in your h pipe, that's probably where your exhust smell is coming from, maybe your t stat is sticking, Ford had a recall on the relays for the fans, or you could rewire them acording to the sticky in here, check your FPR, if its stock and you have few miles it may be bad, if you have some sort of manual Haynes, Ford, ect, there are simple tests you can perform.
No I have not tired a pcm reset. As for the H-pipe the exhaust smell is coming from my Dumps I have. But I'm sure the hole does not help things out. I'm not worried about the smell I'm worried about how rich it smells. My Fan comes on so i'm pretty sure its not the relay. I have not clue what the temp is when it comes on thought cuz the stock gauges are POS's. That's next on my list of things to do is get new Autometer gauges. But I think either today or tomorrow I'm going to my local auto parts store and see if they can run codes. If I remember right they will do it for free. But we will see. Thanks for the help. I'll post when I get the codes
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